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Preparing the garden for winter

Preparing the garden for winter


With the arrival of autumn, gardeners begin to have new worries related to preparing for winter. It's no secret that the next year's harvest is laid in the previous autumn. As all plants overwinter, such a harvest should be expected from them. This issue is especially relevant when a cold winter with very low temperatures is possible. And since it is difficult to determine what the coming winter will be like, then gardeners have to prepare for the worst.

Preparing flowers for winter

We start preparing flowers for winter. Before the onset of the first frosts, you need to dig up and place in the wintering places the bulbs, tubers of your flowers, for example: dahlia, cannes, etc. But for those plants that remain in the ground, before wintering, they should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate (3%).

Peonies must be shortened before wintering. The size to which the peonies are shortened ranges from 10 to 15 cm, and all the stems must be removed. Hydrangea undergoes decorative pruning and does not require additional actions. Perennial asters and evergreen shrubs do not need insulation as such. If you still take them and insulate them, then the excess moisture that appears can lead to damage by fungal diseases.

Before wintering, tubers of dahlias, gladioli, begonias, rhizomes of cannes are dug without fail.

Roses do not tolerate cold and frost very badly and therefore clematis, and Korean chrysanthemums and Japanese angemon, crocosmia are usually insulated with them. Such crops are covered with wood shavings, it is also possible with leaves. Then, frames with stretched plastic wrap are installed above them. Before this operation, they are pruned, dry branches and dried leaves are removed, and the soil around the roots is spud and fed. Tulips, lilies of the valley and hyacinths are planted in open ground sometime in late October.

Preparing trees and shrubs for winter

For such shrubs as currants, blackberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, etc., old and underdeveloped branches are removed before wintering, it will be correct to loosen the soil and fertilize. Blackberries and raspberries for the winter. Bushes for the winter can be tied, and blackberries and raspberries can be bent to the ground.

The trees must be carefully examined, while removing unnecessary fruits, and then the fallen leaves are raked up. It is better to burn the leaves, as they may contain various parasites and pathogens. Fruit trees are cut at a temperature not lower than -10 ° C. Lower temperatures can damage trees by making the branches brittle.

First you need to remove dry, broken or diseased branches. In the process of pruning, you need to ensure that the correct formation of the crown occurs. Branches that are directed towards the inside of the crown are also removed. The branches are cut neatly, and even cuts are treated with garden varnish for the fastest healing. Before processing the cut, it is sprayed with copper sulfate (2% solution). Garden var is sold at hardware stores. As a last resort, you can cook it yourself. To do this, you need to take 6 parts of paraffin and melt, after which 3 parts of rosin must be added to the paraffin. This composition is brought to a boil, after which vegetable oil (2 parts) is added to the mixture. The whole composition is cooked for 10 minutes. After cooling, the mixture kneads well. The garden var is stored in a tightly closed container. During pruning, do not forget about removing mosses, lichens, and old dead bark from tree trunks. In such places, pests usually hibernate.

Treatment against pests and diseases

During this period, fruit trees and shrubs are treated against pests and diseases. Spraying with 5% urea solution (500 g per 10 liters of water) helps against most diseases such as scab, powdery mildew, various spots, coccomycosis, etc. Trees with not yet fallen leaves are treated with this liquid. After harvesting the leaves, the soil around the trees is sprayed with 7% (700 g per 10 l of water) urea solution. If there is no urea, then other mixtures can be used, for example, a solution of soap and soda ash (for 10 liters of water, 30 g of soap and 300 g of soda). It is possible to use ready-made, purchased drugs like Horua, Skora, Tipovita Jet, Homa, OXI Homa and others. This procedure is carried out at the end of October in dry weather. Spraying can be repeated after 5-7 days.

Ready-made preparations such as Aktellik, Aktara, Karbofos, Ventra and others can be used against pests.

Digging and loosening the soil

Most pests are found in the soil, at a depth of about 15-20 cm. Therefore, digging up the soil gives good results in terms of pest control. It is better to loosen the ground with a pitchfork so as not to severely injure the root system. In the process of digging into the soil, you can add some ash, which also helps with pests. In addition, ash is a good fertilizer. She is able, among other things, to protect the root system from freezing.

Before wintering plants, when frosts have not yet come, additional watering of plants and shrubs should be carried out. This will create a certain amount of moisture in the root system, which will have a positive effect on stimulating growth. Pre-winter watering will prevent the root system from dying in the frozen ground, which can lead to the drying out of the plant.

Young seedlings are watered around the trunk circle in the same way as young trees. As for fruiting trees, the water is distributed over the area of ​​the available crown. Watering is carried out at the rate of 50 liters of water per 1 square meter of land. The temperature of the irrigation water is taken 3-5 ° C higher than the ambient temperature. So that the water does not stagnate, the plant is watered in several approaches. For different ages of the tree, the area of ​​the trunk circle is determined. As a rule, the sizes have the following meanings: 1-2 years - about 2 meters in diameter, 3-4 years - 2.5 meters, 5-6 years - about 3 meters, 7-8 years - about 3, 5 meters, 9-10 years old - in the area of ​​4 meters, 11 years and older - within 5 meters.

Whitewashing of fruit plants

Most trees need to be whitened in the fall, although many do this in the spring. Before whitewashing, you need to carefully examine the tree trunk and if there are wounds on it, then they must be covered with garden varnish. The trunk is whitened completely, starting from the roots and ending with the beginning of the first branches. Whitewashing solution can be prepared by yourself or used ready-made, such as "Fas" or "Gardener". To prepare your own, you need to take 2.5 kg of lime and 0.5 kg of copper sulfate, then stir the mixture by adding water to it. After readiness, 200 g of wood glue per 10 liters of water is added to the solution. If there is glue, the whitewash will stand until spring and the rain will not be able to wash it off during this time.

Preparing your lawn for winter

As a rule, with the arrival of autumn, all foliage is removed from the lawns, as it can cause fungal diseases. If in some areas the grass has not grown, then during this period new grass can be sown. Subsequently, these areas need to be watered. To strengthen the root system of plants planted on the lawn, it is required to apply potash fertilizers. If by the wintering period the height of the grass on the lawn reaches 5 cm, then this is very good. If the grass is high enough, then it is better to mow it, otherwise in winter it will fall to the ground, after which, with the onset of heat, it will begin to rot. In winter, it is not recommended to walk on the lawn so as not to disturb the dormant growth buds, especially if there is no snow on it.

In order for green spaces to delight others with their beauty for many years, you need to constantly look after them. This departure can stretch from early spring to late autumn, but it's worth it.

Preparing the garden for winter // FORUMHOUSE


How to prepare your garden for winter

So autumn has come ... The harvest has already been collected, the flower beds are covered with rare late flowers, which will fade in just a couple of days, and the trees and bushes have thrown off their chic yellow-orange outfit, exposing their trunks. But before your favorite garden plunges into a state of calm, sleeping peacefully under a fluffy white blanket, it needs to be prepared for the cold. Believe me, a couple of days spent in the fall for leaving will be rewarded a hundredfold already next year, and trees and shrubs will thank you not only with their healthy appearance, but also with a bountiful harvest. As you might have guessed, in this article we will talk about how to prepare a garden for winter.


How to prepare your garden for winter

Preparing a garden for winter is not only useful, but also exciting: why not enjoy the last warm autumn days, especially when the weather is beautiful outside the window. Let's get started?


Harvesting leaves

Collect the leaves carefully with a rake. If your trees and shrubs have not been affected by diseases and pests, send foliage to a compost heap or warm beds, use as mulch for wintering flowers. But keep in mind: leaves infected with scab, powdery mildew and other diseases are not suitable for this. Take them off-site and burn them.

Remember to remove the leaves from the roofs of the buildings.


Preparing the garden for winter - Kharakhorina S. Yu.

Book: Preparing the garden for winter
Author: Kharakhorina S. Yu.
Year: 2013
Genre: Garden
Publisher: Eksmo
ISBN: 978-5-699-59491-7
Pages: 160
Language: Russian

Description: Spring and summer are a hot season for all gardeners and gardeners. But in the fall and winter, there are also enough things to do on the site: it is necessary to prepare the site for next year, remove greenhouses, hotbeds and equipment, make winter crops.

In the book you will find many tips on how to care for trees and shrubs in autumn and winter, how to protect them from rodents and frost, how to prepare the soil and the site as a whole for the new year. The whole complex of works on preparing the site for winter is described, starting from the time of harvest: seasonal operations with trees and shrubs, processing of flower beds, methods of covering and sowing before winter, techniques for caring for perennial plants, soil cultivation, caring for greenhouses and greenhouses, preparation equipment, measures for snow retention. Each activity is described step by step.


On our site you can download the book "Preparing a garden for winter" Kharakhorin S. Yu. Free of charge and without registration, or buy a book in the online store.


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Garden tools

Garden tools are used for excavation work, pruning plants and for treating plants from diseases and parasites. Every gardener should have the following set of inventory:

  • shovel, rake, pitchfork
  • pruning shears, hacksaws, garden knife
  • wheelbarrow, stepladder, spray.

Garden plantings

Garden plantings include both natural plantings, directly on the ground, and auxiliary structures, which include arches, trellises and other elements. Lianas are often used as ornamental plants, which, rising along vertical walls, create real green curtains. Garden arches are used to frame paths or to decorate the entrance to the garden. Climbing roses and other climbing plants grow well on them. A trellis is a trellis structure that serves as a support for green spaces. All garden structures can be made of wood, metal or plastic.


Protecting conifers from sunburn in spring

The second factor that is dangerous for conifers and often leads to their death is a sharp increase in air temperature in spring, when the earth has not yet thawed. At this time, the needles are actively working (photosynthesis begins), evaporating moisture, and the roots are not yet able to extract it from the frozen ground. A kind of "dehydration" occurs. Therefore, sometimes the plants remain green after winter, and in May we suddenly find blackened skeletons with crumbling brown needles. To preserve the conifers, the ground under them is watered with warm water immediately after the snow melts. Conifers need to be additionally protected from solar radiation.

In March, the sun's rays, enhanced by the reflection from the snow cover, can destroy those parts of the plants that are above the snow level. Thawing time is the most dangerous period for conifers. Therefore, at the end of February, the plant is tied with twine and loosely wrapped with burlap, light cotton cloth or kraft paper, preferably in several layers. The use of plastic wrap is unacceptable (everything will squeak), and non-woven material is practically useless, since it transmits ultraviolet rays.

The most effective way of protection is to install screens from the most illuminated side. In this case, there is no contact with the needles, the branches are not jammed. The shelter is removed after the snow melts.

Protecting conifers from sunburn in winter

The older the plant, the more resistant it is to solar radiation, but up to five years it will have to be covered.

Some species and varieties of conifers are quite resistant to burns, but there are some that cannot be saved, no matter how hard you try. The latter include the gray spruce, or Canadian, conic shape (Picea glauca f. conica). True, it is believed that its newest varieties do not "fade".


Watch the video: 3 Cheap and Simple Ways To Prep Your Garden For Winter u0026 Spring