Floral arrangement dominated by phlox

Floral arrangement dominated by phlox

Cold flame in the flower bed

Phlox varieties Apple color

It is not an easy task to beautifully arrange a flower garden with different varieties of paniculate phlox. Let's try to solve it with the following initial data.

An area about 5 meters long and 1.5-2 meters wide is allocated for the flower garden. Simultaneous flowering is desirable in July-August. And, finally, phloxes should become the protagonists of the flower garden.

Phlox varieties Lyubasha

When choosing varieties, we take into account the height of the bushes, the coinciding flowering periods and colors. In addition, phlox varieties (Phlox - from Latin flame) should be approximately equal in terms of the strength of the impression produced.

This is not entirely obvious, at first glance, the condition actually requires special attention when selecting varieties.

Let us explain with an example. We want to plant a dense lilac and white phlox next to it. If we choose a variety Igor Talkov with large flowers and a large dense inflorescence, and next to it we will plant an elegant variety Snow White, then Snow White will inevitably get lost near such a spectacular neighbor.

If instead of the Snow White variety, plant a large-flowered variety Maria, then you get a decent pair - the varieties do not overshadow, but emphasize the beauty of each other.

And for the airy Snow White, we will pick up another pair, for example, a variety Purple mantle or (for front planting) variety Blue ocean... It also turns out to be a completely harmonious combination.

The scheme of a flower garden, in which the main place is occupied by varieties of phlox paniculata

In this figure, a scheme of a flower garden is proposed, in which the main place is occupied by varieties of phlox paniculata. We place the flower garden in a well-lit place.

The main period of the spectacular decorativeness of such a flower garden is the second half of July and August, when paniculate phlox blooms. They occupy most of the flower garden in position 1 (see fig)... We plant 2-3 bushes of several varieties in the flower garden with an average flowering period. It is advisable to select the varieties by color, thickening the color from light pink to raspberry or from lilac to purple. For example, on the left we plant a white-pink variety Granddaughter Nadenka, to the right - a light pink variety Apple tree color, then - a deep pink variety Leonid Vigdorov.

The raspberry flowering of the variety will complete this row. Nicolas Flammel... If you prefer the lilac gamut, then a number of varieties may look like this: white flowers with blue buds of the variety Heaven, lilac flowers with a white center Lyubasha, rich lilac with a white star variety Marble and dark purple variety Magic.

June bloom in this flower garden is provided by delphiniums (Delphínium)located in positions 2 (see fig). When the delphiniums fade, their bushes that have lost their decorative effect will hide the growing phloxes and plants of the foreground of the flower garden.

The foreground of the flower garden can be occupied by plants with rounded bushes and small, but abundant flowers, then you get something like a lace cuff. This role is successfully performed by groups of small basil in position 3 and blood-red geranium with crimson (position 4) and white (position 5) flowers (see Geranium (Geranium) grows quickly, so you can plant 3-4 plants in each position, and the basil will need three copies in each group. Free space in the foreground of the flower garden can be occupied for one season with annual plants that match the color, for example, petunias.

Small basil

Small basil (Thalictrum minor) undeservedly rarely used in flower beds. Meanwhile, this is a very graceful plant with delicate, finely dissected foliage and a rounded bush, not exceeding 30 cm in diameter. Clouds of small greenish flowers make the basil even more airy.

The small basil is unpretentious, but it must be borne in mind that only young plants tolerate the transplant well, and therefore you need to immediately choose a permanent place for it in the garden. Blood-red geranium also does not like transplants. Both plants reproduce well by seed, but blood red geranium varieties require vegetative propagation.

Phlox grade Marble "

The maintenance of this flower garden is highly dependent on the initial preparation of the soil. If it is well filled with organic fertilizers, ash and is able to retain moisture, then the amount of fertilizing and watering will be much less.

You will need 2-3 feeding for phlox and delphiniums, and geraniums and basilists will not give you much trouble. The flower garden will require reconstruction in about five years (on sandy soils earlier than on clay soils).

Then it will be necessary to divide the aged bushes of phlox and delphiniums and replant the young parts of the plants. In wet and cool weather, the risk of powdery mildew increases; in this case, prophylactic spraying of delphiniums and phloxes with Fitosporin should be carried out, preferably twice with an interval of two weeks.

Read about phlox:
• Phlox, care and varieties
• What type of phlox to choose and how to get them in your garden
• Growing Phlox Drummond
• Interesting flower arrangements for the garden with phlox
• Exhibition of phlox, interesting varieties

Svetlana Voronina,
landscape designer
Photo by the author

We are planning a flower garden!

In summer and autumn, winter and spring, nature is always uniquely diverse and beautiful. And only a well thought out and planned composition of flowers and ornamental shrubs on your site will allow you to achieve a continuous wave of decorativeness and avoid stereotyped design.

There are two types of planting of flowers and ornamental shrubs: single - on lawns, lawns, near water bodies, in pots / flowerpots and group - on flower beds, rabatki, in boxes, for ornamental shrubs - in hedges.

A single plant planted on a lawn, lawn or other place must have the necessary decorative qualities: large, beautifully shaped flowers, ornamental leaves, a high stem or a compact structure of a bush. For this purpose, of perennial flowers, are more suitable peonies (herbaceous and tree-like), pyramidal aconitum, purple and two-color hybrid delphinium, lovely diclitra, ash, dahlias (high varieties), palm rhubarb, paniculata phlox (high varieties), pyramidal bell from letniki - cochia, castor oil plant, ornamental cabbage of biennials - mallow, foxglove... And almost every ornamental shrub, be it hydrangea, barberry, spirea or any other will certainly look great in a solo fit!

Flower bed. This is usually called a flower garden of a symmetrical, geometrically regular shape - round, oval or square.

A round flower bed is marked with a cord, the length of which should be equal to the radius of the flower bed, and two pegs. When the contours of the flower bed are applied, they begin to dig the soil. When digging, the edges of the flower beds are raised above the level of the flower garden by 10-15 cm, increasing the height to the center by 25-35 cm. For the construction of this hill, the earth is taken from other places, for example, from where it is planned to lay paths, or it is brought up. The land should be fertile and loose. To preserve the shape of the flower bed, it is framed with special decorative fences, a "fence" or lined with boulders, bricks, turf, wire arches. It can also be planted with a border of stunted plants. The flowerbed "sprinkled" with small pebbles looks beautiful and neat.

Or, without using artificial fences, you can make an invisible, but reliable weed curb as follows:

1. In the spring, sticking a shovel vertically along the entire perimeter, trim the edge of the flower bed.

2. The flower bed should be slightly negative, that is, 3-4 cm below the lawn. So it is better moistened, and the earth does not crawl onto the lawn. If you want to pour positive, higher, then the edges should still be left below the lawn.

3. The lawn is mowed with any convenient mower, and the very edge of the lawn near the flower bed, the edge, is "trimmed" with a trimmer with a fishing line.

Here's another way to invisibly fencing.

It requires a black plastic pipe with a diameter of 6 cm, which is easy to bend. Such pipes are sold in abundance in the construction markets.

1. Dig a 10 cm deep groove around the perimeter.

2. Lay the pipe in the groove, bending it, fixing, if necessary, with hammered pegs, making a composite one - it depends on the shape of the flower bed.

The pipe restrains the grass from the lawn, not letting it into the flower bed. And above the pipe, grass and weeds do not grow, since there is a 2-3 cm layer of earth, and this layer is constantly dry and hot. The black pipe is completely invisible. If it is not annoying, then you can leave it slightly protruding above the ground, the view will be quite natural.

Rabatka Is a narrow, long, flower bed located along a path, fence, terrace or balcony.

They can be conditionally divided into one-sided, two-sided and homogeneous. On one-sided ridges, which are usually located near a building, a fence, a fence, tall plants are placed in the background, and low curbs are placed closer to the path - in the foreground. On double-sided ridges, tall plants are located in the center, and low ones on the sides. Rabatki can also be occupied by uniformly flowering plants, bordering them with a border. The width of the bed can be from 50 cm to 1 m, the length is 3 m or more. Long ridges look nicer with a break. Beddings made of homogeneous plants are especially good, for example, low dahlias or phloxes, gladioli, snapdragons, asters, zinnias... Depending on the color in the double-sided beds, the plants are planted in the following combinations: white with red, blue with yellow, blue with orange, purple with yellow.

Mixborder - wide bed of free or regular geometric shape. The basis is made up of perennial plants of different types, different heights, blooming at different times. Plants of the same species within the mixborder are planted in groups. The main thing in the selection of plants is grouping by height and flowering time.
Remember that contrast is at the heart of harmonious compositions. In a flower garden, you can create it in different ways: by combining the shape, texture and size of foliage or inflorescences, by combining the color of flowers or fruits. By replacing each other, the plants in the flower garden should provide a long lasting color effect - preferably from snow to snow.

In the small garden, flower arrangements with shrubs acquire a special charm. For example, barberries with purple foliage, which retains its color throughout all seasons, perfectly shade Buzulnik Beach and stonecrop Vidny... Not only do they feel good under the canopy of trees ferns, but also astilbe, moisture-loving incense and hosta. Complement each other mountain cornflower, purple lupine and creeping tenacious. Replace each other in bloom daylily, rudbeckia rough and goldenrod... The foreground of the flower garden can form Woolly chisel in combination with evening primrose and golden beetroot. This group of low colors can be supplemented lilac phlox spread out.

Shrubs are also included in the mixborder (in addition to the background hedge). Forsythia, for example, will perfectly coexist with daffodils which will support its golden bloom in early spring. Yellow-leaved chubushnik creates a spectacular backdrop for blue lupins and blue delphiniums... When there is not enough space for flowers in the garden, you have to combine all seasons in one flower garden and carefully think over the masking of faded plants or their replacement with annuals.

Loose sod phlox care

Unlike bush phlox, loose sod do not require complex dressings for their spectacular flowering. For them, it is enough to take care of watering during the flowering period, several dressings and weeding.

Loose sod phlox are watered only during drought. For these plants, the period of preparation for flowering and the flowering itself are critical: if the plants experience a lack of moisture, the total duration of flowering will be reduced. Phlox is rarely watered, deeply soaking the soil, only when there is not enough natural precipitation.

For loose sod phlox, feeding is carried out 1-3 times per season. Usually, early spring feeding with full mineral fertilizer or a solution of organic fertilizers in a standard amount is sufficient. If you want to get the most spectacular flowering or grow phlox for cutting, then fertilizing is carried out three times - with nitrogen fertilizers in early spring, during the budding period or at the beginning of flowering - with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, and after flowering - with full mineral fertilizer.

Weed weeding, combined with gentle soil loosening, maintains optimal water and air permeability and allows phlox to grow actively. Weeds are not afraid of curtains: weeding is carried out around the plants.

Loose stern phloxes love mulching. For them, you can choose both organic fertilizers and decorative mulch. Renew the mulch layer 1-2 times a year.

They do not need protection for the winter, but young plants, as well as varieties with unknown winter hardiness, are best insulated from snowless periods by additional mulching with dry leaves. A protective layer is created only after the soil freezes and is removed after the first warming, not allowing the sod to dry out.

Loose sod phlox reproduce only vegetatively. © Mt Cuba Center

Sweet couples

Third, you can play on the difference in the shape and color of the leaves. Such "twos" in a calm color scheme are easy to fit into any corner of the garden, but they look especially organic near a pond or a decorative garden swamp. A striking example of such a group is the delicate green green of openwork fern leaves, graphic strict lines of the iris of the marsh and the soft silvery velvet of the pure wool.

Having connected some of the plants into small groups, think about where they can be planted. Here, first of all, it is necessary to take into account the preferences in lighting.

Selection of partners for phlox

Phlox go well with each other. Species and varieties of phlox, different not only in height, but also in growth rate, color range, flowering time, allow you to create compositions with an extended period of abundant flowering and fully reveal the beauty of these plants. When combining phlox with each other, it is better to avoid contrasts in colors, adhering to the principle of harmonious color combinations or the choice of nuances and shades of the same color.

In ceremonial flower beds and mixborders, as in all other types of decorative compositions with a focus on brightness and high decorativeness, partners are selected for phlox according to the principle of ennobling textures, contrasts that can compensate for the deficiencies of greenery and reveal all the unique beauty of this bright perennial.

Bush phlox in the flower garden. © tesselaarusa

It is no coincidence that today it is so fashionable to combine phlox with decorative deciduous wormwood, euonymus and barberries. Daylilies, herbaceous peonies, echinacea, delphiniums, catnips, yarrows, bells are always excellent partners for phlox.

Small flowering accents perfectly fit into ensembles with phloxes - from tulips lost among perennials to decorative bows. In compositions with phlox, plants must be added with an eye to autumn - for example, sedum, chrysanthemums and asters.

In natural-style compositions for phlox, it is better to choose other landscape favorites as neighbors.Yarrow, hosta, basil, loosestrife, geraniums, rudbeckia, ferns, Siberian irises, cornflowers, bells will become the best partners for more modest flowering phlox or help your favorite fashionable varieties fit into a natural style.

The best partners for creeping phlox have always been the stars of rock gardens blooming with them at a similar time. Saxifrages and arabis accentuating muscari, edelweiss, and dwarf irises are typical choices. But carpet phlox are perfectly combined with any other bulbous and other ground cover plants. Aubrieta, fescue, primroses, armeria, ryegrass, chickweed, purse, wormwood, stonecrop, bells, thyme, herbal cloves, species tulips, crocuses, white flowers - there are plenty to choose from.

Dwarf shrubs and conifers perfectly set off and enrich compositions with creeping phlox. Pines, firs, dwarf spireas, hemlock, cotoneaster, euonymus look especially bright against the background of phlox pillows. And if phloxes are used to frame large-sized solo perennials, then you should pay attention to how they emphasize the beauty of decorative bows, species irises, feather grass, sheep, bergenia.

Near reservoirs, phloxes can be combined with periwinkles, kupins, primroses, lungworms, dicentra, swimsuits.

For annual phlox, snapdragons, nigella, fescue, lychnis, wormwood, coreopsis, calendula, cosmea are considered the best partners.

Jerusalem artichoke: planting, care and use

Jerusalem artichoke is a perennial tuberous plant of the Astrov family. His homeland is North America, where Jerusalem artichoke was cultivated by the Indians. Jerusalem artichoke is unpretentious, cold-resistant, grows on any soil. And yet it is so tasty and healthy! In terms of the structure of the aboveground organs, it is very similar to sunflower. But, unlike sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke stems form numerous stolon shoots, at the ends of which are tubers. The nature of the nest depends on the length of the stolons: with short ones, the nest is compact, with long ones - loose and spreading.

The average mass of tubers, depending on the variety, ranges from 10 to 90 g, most often - 30-50 g.

Planting Jerusalem artichoke

Techniques for growing Jerusalem artichoke are largely similar to the technology of potatoes. The plant is propagated by tubers, which are planted in early spring or autumn at a distance of 60–70 cm between rows, 30–40 cm in a row to a depth of 8–15 cm. About 1 kg of medium-sized tubers are consumed per 10 m2. Large ones are cut like potatoes.

Before planting, the site must be dug deeply, having previously added 10-15 kg / m2 of humus and 50-70 g / m2 of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. If the soil is acidic, then add lime at the rate of 200-500 g / m2.

Jerusalem artichoke grows best in open areas without shading. It is picky about soil moisture, although it can tolerate dry periods in damp places, it grows poorly. Acid peat soils for Jerusalem artichoke must be limed. The roots of the plant penetrate deep into the soil and are able to use nutrients from hard-to-reach compounds.

Seedlings of this culture tolerate spring frosts down to -6 ° С, and adult plants withstand cooling down to -8 ° С in autumn. Tubers are stored in the soil in severe winters with forty-degree frosts with a snow cover height of 30 cm. Unlike potatoes, they can freeze, thaw and freeze again without losing their vitality.

Jerusalem artichoke grows on almost all types of soils, but tuberization and green mass are sharply reduced in acidic, swampy and heavy-textured areas.

It is quite possible to allocate contaminated soils under this crop, since it itself suppresses weeds. However, the plant is extremely responsive to the creation of a sufficiently high agricultural background and the use of organic fertilizers.

Jerusalem artichoke is a short-day culture in northern regions with a long light period, it forms tubers late, which is why the harvest is small, but the shoots vegetate normally.

Jerusalem artichoke cleaning

The crop is harvested in September, using green mass for livestock feed. Sometimes harvesting is practiced in early spring. Since it is not possible to completely dig up all the tubers and stolons, the remaining ones sprout in May.

Planting the second year of use in the spring must be fed and loosened the aisles. In one place, the culture is grown for 3-4 years.

Jerusalem artichoke storage

Tubers are poorly stored, because due to the thin cork layer they are subject to mechanical damage and quickly rot. In storage facilities (cellars), it is required to sprinkle them with dry sand in layers every 10 cm.
A small number of tubers can be stored until spring in open plastic bags at 2–4 ° C.

Jerusalem artichoke benefits

Jerusalem artichoke contains little fiber and a rich set of trace elements, ascorbic acid and B vitamins. Jerusalem artichoke accumulates silicon from the soil, and in tubers the amount of this element is up to 8% calculated on dry matter, which also includes proteins, pectin, amino acids, organic and fatty acids ...

The iron content in Jerusalem artichoke exceeds that in potatoes, carrots and sugar beets.

How to use Jerusalem artichoke

Jerusalem artichoke is a vegetable, fodder and medicinal crop. Tubers are used as a dietary food product: they are eaten raw, boiled, fried, dried and canned.

The high content of inulin makes it possible to use Jerusalem artichoke as a raw material for the production of diabetic food products: flour, juice, syrup, compote, marmalade, sweets, gingerbread and various bakery products. The recommended daily intake of tubers for patients with diabetes mellitus is 80-200 g. Inulin, being one of the most valuable components of Jerusalem artichoke, gives dishes made from it a pleasant taste.

Products from this plant are not inferior in nutritional value to potatoes and contribute to the treatment of gout, urolithiasis, atherosclerosis, the prevention of cancer and myocardial infarction.

Jerusalem artichoke tubers darken quickly after peeling, so they should immediately be immersed in water acidified with vinegar or citric acid. This does not affect the taste of the dishes.

Jerusalem artichoke recipes

Pour the peeled tubers with salted hot water, add table vinegar (20 ml per 1 liter of water) to preserve the white color, and cook until tender. Before serving, remove from water and cover with butter or sour cream.

Prepare liquid unleavened salt dough. To do this, grind the egg yolks with vegetable oil, add milk, in which you first dissolve the salt. Pour in the sifted flour, stir well, and then add well-beaten egg whites and mix again. Cut the peeled tubers into 1 cm slices, dip in the dough and deep-fry until golden brown.

Peel 2-3 tubers, grate on a coarse grater, salt to taste, add sour cream or mayonnaise, sprinkle with parsley and dill on top. You can add fresh or pickled cucumber or raw grated carrots to the salad.

Yacon is a relative of Jerusalem artichoke and sunflower

Yacon is a distant relative of sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke. In Russia, it is still not very popular and is grown mainly in the southern regions of the country. In my opinion, this culture can be successfully cultivated in the Middle Belt and in more northern regions. In addition, yacon is a healthy dietary product, unpretentious in care and easy to prepare.

Useful properties of yacon

Yacon is recommended for dietary nutrition for patients with diabetes mellitus, obese people, as it contains fructose polymer - inulin (up to 20%).

  • Yacon significantly lowers blood sugar.
  • The presence of glucose, safe for health and pleasant to the taste, can be a tasty medicine for diabetics.
  • The substances in the root tubers stimulate beneficial intestinal bacteria.
  • In terms of nutritional value, yacon can even replace potatoes.
  • Yacon accumulates the trace element selenium (up to 1.1 mg /% per 1 kg), which is sometimes called the "elixir of youth". Selenium is an antioxidant, it is able to prevent heart attacks, has a beneficial effect on the nervous system, and allows you to maintain clarity of mind in old age.
  • Root tubers contain up to 4.5% of various carbohydrates, a lot of potassium, they are low in calories and help lower blood cholesterol.

    Photo: Yacon accumulates useful selenium, which is called the "elixir of youth"

    Growing conditions for yacon

    In Russia, yacon is an annual plant. The entire aerial part is completely destroyed at a temperature of 0 ° C.

    • Outwardly, the yacon looks attractive - 1.5 - 2 m high.
    • The leaves are dark green, large, with jagged edges, slightly pubescent.
    • The stem is round, green, with anthocyanin spots.

    Photo: in Russia, yacon is grown in an annual culture

    Growing yacon from rhizomes and cuttings

    The best way to reproduce this culture in our conditions is vegetative propagation by dividing rhizomes.

    Yacon forms large rhizomes, on which 5-7 or more underground fruits are formed, weighing 400-600 g

  • In the fall, after digging from the soil and separating the tubers, I wash the rhizomes, dry them for several days at room temperature.
  • Then I store them on a glazed loggia at a temperature of + 1 ... 2 ° C, wrapping them in paper, then put them in a plastic bag.
  • In February, I divide the rhizomes into several parts and germinate in high humidity.
  • When 1-2 shoots are formed, I separate them from the root and plant them in pots with a diameter of 14-16 cm.

    In the future, I take care of it as for ordinary seedlings.

    Yacon also propagates well by cuttings - parts of the stem with 1-2 pairs of leaves

    I plant several plants in an unheated greenhouse, the rest in open ground, but with an indispensable cover with non-woven material, since return frosts can cancel out the entire seedling period.

    • I plant seedlings in the ground after May 20.
    • Yacon yields on any soil, but to get the most out of it, you need a rich, well-fertilized, loose soil.
    • In each hole (I arrange the holes according to the scheme 60x60 cm) I put 0.5 kg of humus, 1 glass of ash, 1 tbsp. spoon of organo-mineral fertilizer.

    Yacon care is not difficult.

  • I do regular watering only with warm water. On hot days, you have to water every day, because the wide leaves evaporate a lot of moisture.
  • Once a month, you can fertilize with a complex mineral fertilizer.
  • I did not have to observe pests and diseases on plants.

    Photo: Yacon care is not difficult

    Harvesting and storage

    I harvest the tubers very carefully, digging in with a garden pitchfork.

    Cleaning times depend on weather conditions:

    • in the open field - after the first freezing,
    • in the greenhouse - in the second half of October.

    Separate the tubers from the rhizomes and store at a temperature of + 2 ... 3 ° C, similar to storing carrots


    When excavated, the tubers are almost tasteless (they resemble unsweetened carrots), but when stored, after lying in the sun for several hours, they become very sweet, their taste is similar to an apple with a melon, refreshing and pleasant.

    Yacon tubers are eaten fresh, boiled, stewed, fried. But in our family, salads made from yacon with daikon, root celery and carrots are especially loved. Here is where the storehouse of vitamins in winter!

    Photo: salads from yacon with daikon, root celery and carrots are especially loved in our family

    Yacon varieties

    And in conclusion - about the varieties. There are very few of them. The first, domestic - Yudinka.

    I grow two newer ones:

  • Bios with fusiform and pear-shaped tubers,
  • more productive Sochi, having tubers of oval and fusiform shapes. The mass of one tuber exceeds 800 g, and the total yield is more than 2 kg per plant.

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