Nettleleaf Goosefoot Weed Control: How To Get Rid Of Nettleleaf Goosefoot

Nettleleaf Goosefoot Weed Control: How To Get Rid Of Nettleleaf Goosefoot

By: Jackie Carroll

Nettleleaf goosefoot (Chenopodium murale) is an annual weed closely related to chard and spinach. Learn about nettleleaf goosefoot identification and control in this article.

Nettleleaf Goosefoot Identification

You can recognize nettleleaf goosefoot weeds by the roughly triangular or lancet-shaped leaves and the dense clusters of seeds at the tips of the stems. The dark green, glossy leaves have toothed edges and they give off a strong smell when you crush them. These plants grow up to three feet (.9 m.) tall.

Controlling nettleleaf goosefoot in the lawn is a matter of practicing good lawn care. Water regularly and follow a good fertilization schedule for your region and type of grass. A strong, healthy lawn can crowd out the weed. Mow often so that the goosefoot never matures enough to produce seeds. Since it is an annual, it will die out if it isn’t allowed to go to seed.

How to Get Rid of Nettleleaf Goosefoot in Gardens

Controlling nettleleaf goosefoot in the garden is a little more challenging. Although a broadleaf herbicide will kill the weed, it will also kill your garden plants. The only reliable method of eliminating the weed from the garden while leaving your plants intact is to pull the weeds.

When you pull, try to get as much of the roots as possible. If you let the plants get too big before you pull, the roots spread and entangle themselves with the roots of other plants in the garden. A sharp hoe can help you with your nettleleaf goosefoot weed control program.

Is Nettleleaf Goosefoot Edible?

Yes, it is! Eaten fresh, it has a flavor that resembles lettuce. You can cook it like you would spinach or chard for a unique vegetable with a pleasant flavor. The seeds taste a lot like quinoa, but you’d have to have a lot of plants to get enough seeds to cook.

Sauté goosefoot in butter, tossing in some minced garlic or onion, if desired. Experiment with some of your favorite herbs, or enjoy it plain. You can also toss a few leaves into your favorite soup.

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Stinging Nettle – Note the seeds it’s about to shed

Nettles do have some plus points, for a start they are essential for some butterfly species whose caterpillars feed on the nettle whilst protected from predators to a degree by the stings. The main butterfly species that use the nettle are: Peacock, Red Admiral, Painted Lady, Small Tortoiseshell and Comma.

Some people like to grow stinging nettles in pots in a border to attract and assist those attractive butterfly species but you need to be careful not to let them seed.

They’re not very useful, to encourage butterflies and other wildlife a bigger patch is more effective.

Yes, young stinging nettle shoots are edible (cooked) and some people actually like them. I’d not place them in the delicacy division myself. It’s amazing what human beings can eat when pushed.

Like most plants, they have their place – just not all over my garden, thanks!

Garden Blogging in Ocean Beach and San Diego: Learning Our Weeds

This article was originally posted on the OB Rag on October 3, 2012

With my big front yard swale project out of the way, I’m getting started on the backyard. The backyard intimidates me. It’s huge, full of bermudagrass, and parts of it are covered in chips of paint from the construction that’s gone on here over the past year or so. I’ve been having conversations in bad Spanglish with Jorge the painter about why we don’t want paint in our soil.

Today I decided to take on a mini-project: getting the smallest bed ready for garlic planting. I’m not ready to plant garlic yet, but the garlic’s ready – so I don’t have much choice. As I set out to check out the soil in the bed I wanted to use, I discovered a new weed – and a really unpleasant one at that. I posted about it on Facebook, and that led to a very interesting conversation about local weeds and how to identify them…

Since I’ve gardened in California, I’ve encountered the same weeds over and over again. So it seems about time to figure out what they are called and if there are any good uses for them.

Here are some of my old friends:

Bermudagrass: This stuff is The Enemy. Details here. I’ve already set to work on the insurmountable task of removing it from the yard of my new place. Of course, that’s about as pointless as Sisyphus pushing his big rock up the hill, because the stupid thing has its roots far under the patio where I can’t remove them. All I can do is keep this one at bay. And the chickens don’t even really like to eat it.

Common Mallow and Little Mallow: Details here: Common Mallow and Little Mallow. Turns out it’s edible! I don’t know which species I always find in my yard but it appears that you can eat both of them. As a gardener trying to get these guys out of my garden, I try to remove them when they are small because their roots get big and hard to pull as the plant matures.

Stinging Nettles: Details here. I hate these guys because they HURT when you run into them accidentally in the yard… but they taste great cooked. I treat them like spinach but take good care not to touch them when they are raw. I use various garden tools to touch them or else I wear oven mitts. Stinging nettles don’t sting anymore once cooked.

Filaree: Details here. Apparently the leaves have a lovely parsley flavor.

Wood Sorrel a.k.a. Sourgrass: This one’s edible too, but I try to get rid of it from the yard if I see it. Details here. The little stinkers reproduces by growing a bunch of bulbs on their roots underground. That means that just pulling up a plant doesn’t work – you need to find and remove all of the bulbs too.

Spotted Spurge: The weed that looks like purslane but isn’t. Details here. It always made me very sad that the garden at my old place was entirely infested with this stuff… but not purslane!

Nettleleaf Goosefoot: Details here and here. I’m not 100% sure this is the weed I’ve been seeing in the yard, but I’ll take a closer look now that it’s edible.

Foxtail: Another one I’ve been pulling out of the yard forever. Details here.

And here’s the new f***er I found today: Nutsedge: Details here.

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Weed Management After Planting

Plant or transplant lettuce into uniform beds with a precision planting system to obtain a uniform crop that allows accurate machine cultivation next to the lettuce seedline. With precision cultivation, fewer weeds remain and handweeding costs are reduced. Seeded lettuce is machine thinned about 2 to 3 weeks after planting or hand thinned about 3 to 4 weeks after planting. Many, but not all, weeds in the seedlines are removed in the thinning process. Fields are hand weeded 10 to 14 days following thinning to remove weeds and any double lettuce plants missed in the thinning operation. Typically, lettuce is cultivated two times during the growing season utilizing sweeps, coulter disks, top-knives and side-knives that are mounted on a cultivator. Camera-guided cultivation systems allow for greater precision in cultivation operations. Intelligent cultivators that use camera and electronic guidance are now available for the second cultivation (following thinning). These machines can remove weeds in the crop row much like a hand hoeing

Buried drip irrigation is also useful for lettuce weed control. Under this system, the lettuce is precision planted and sprinkler irrigated to germinate the crop. After emergence, fields are cultivated and the lettuce is thinned and handweeded within the rows. Subsequent irrigations using the subsurface drip system minimize soil surface moisture and weed seed germination.

Sethoxydim (Poast) or clethodim (Select Max) can be used for controlling small seedling annual grasses and some perennial grasses. Sethoxydim does not control annual bluegrass, but clethodim does. Effectiveness is reduced when grasses are under moisture stress. Later growth stages of annual grasses are more difficult to control. Clethodim is registered on leaf lettuce only.

UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines: Lettuce
UC ANR Publication 3450

R.F. Smith, UC Cooperative Extension Monterey County

S.A. Fennimore, Plant Sciences, UC Davis and USDA-ARS, Salinas

M. LeStrange (emeritus), UC Cooperative Extension Tulare County

Nutgrass (Cyperus Rotundus)

Nutgrass is a perennial rapidly spreading grass-like sedge with flat, tapered and corrugated foliage. The stem is triangular in cross-section, a feature which is unique to sedges. The name nutgrass comes from the nut-like tubers found on rhizomes under the surface. These “nuts” serve as energy storage for the weed which are the reason the weed is difficult to control. The weed seeds from summer through to autumn, with yellow-brown seeds arranged in narrow spikes. Nutgrass propagates from both seed…

Apakah Nettleleaf Goosefoot Bisa Dimakan?

Ya itu! Dimakan segar, memiliki rasa yang menyerupai selada. Anda bisa memasaknya seperti memasak bayam atau chard untuk sayuran unik dengan rasa yang menyenangkan. Biji rasanya seperti quinoa, tetapi Anda harus memiliki banyak tanaman untuk mendapatkan cukup biji untuk dimasak.

Tumis goosefoot dengan mentega, aduk bawang putih atau bawang merah, jika diinginkan. Bereksperimenlah dengan beberapa ramuan favorit Anda, atau menikmatinya dengan polos. Anda juga bisa memasukkan beberapa daun ke dalam sup favorit Anda.

Watch the video: Stinging Nettle The Most Nutritious Plant On Earth?