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Naughty dill: why it doesn't grow and what can be done

 Naughty dill: why it doesn't grow and what can be done


It would seem that what could be easier than growing dill. The grass is grass. But no! In some, it is lush, green, fragrant, climbs in all the beds without asking, while in others it rises from the fifth to the tenth, and grows weak, pale, lifeless. To understand what this is all about, you need to acquire some knowledge about a fragrant vegetable.

Inadequate soil quality

Almost all gardeners sow dill, because this is one of the most common seasonings in our country, but if only a few yellowish or reddish blades of grass emerge from the entire sowing, we must look for the reasons for this state of affairs. They can be very different.

Weak seedlings of dill are a signal to find the reason for this state of affairs

Dill does not like acidic soil, but you should not add lime or ash to the ground directly under the sowing of the plant, otherwise the dill shoots will be red. It is better to reduce the acidity of the soil in previous seasons by growing other crops.

The soil for dill is generously fertilized with organic matter, choosing one of the feeding options:

  • 1 m2 the beds bring in a third of a bucket of humus mixed with a tablespoon of nitrophoska or Kemira Universal;
  • shed furrows with mullein diluted in a ratio of 1:10.

Insufficient illumination of the sowing area

Dill sown in a shaded place, even if it sprouts, will give yellowish sparse leaves, and its stems will elongate and thin out. In practice, it has been established that for dill the normal duration of lighting is 16 hours a day.... In accordance with this, and should choose a place for sowing.

Dill needs light 16 hours a day

Poor seed preparation

The scent of dill that is attractive to us is created by the essential oils it contains. There are enough of them in the seeds, and this delays the shoots. Many gardeners and agronomists advise to wash off essential oils with hot water at a temperature of 48–50 ºС before sowing dill.

I, too, in my summer cottage faced the problem of poor seedlings of dill. Now I don't remember where, I came across a recommendation on the net for removing essential oils: rinse the seeds in vodka, and then in clean water and dry. This spring I experimented with dill and carrots, the result is really impressive: the seedlings were friendly and faster.

Poor seed quality

Before sowing dill seeds, they must be tested for germination by soaking for 2-3 days in a wet cloth or gauze. The fabric must be constantly moisturized. If the seeds do not hatch in a few days, there is no point in sowing them, it is better to use them as a seasoning.

Dill is widely used in medicine. The drug Anetin, which has an antispasmodic effect, is made from dill seeds.

Violation of agricultural techniques for growing dill

Such a simple garden culture, like dill, also has its own rules and characteristics of cultivation:

  • sowing dill to get the earliest harvest can still be done on the ice crust on the soil (in the middle lane this is usually the first decade of April), but sowing should only be done with dry seeds, soaked or even more germinated ones will die;
  • at the end of April, germinated seeds can be sown, but always in moist soil, to a depth of no more than 2-3 cm and carefully so that the sprouts do not break off;
  • late varieties of dill, such as Alligator, Mischievous and the like, are sown in May - June, they will not have time to form flower stalks by the end of the season and will provide vitamin products for the whole summer;
  • since the dill crop can be harvested already 3-4 weeks after germination, it is recommended to sow the plant every 2-3 weeks, in the middle lane the dill seeds are thrown into the ground for the last time no later than August 20;
  • with the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, the sowing is thinned out, leaving the plants at a distance of about 10 cm from one another, and the rows of crops are placed 15 cm from each other, for bush varieties, the row spacing is left 20-25 cm;
  • in no case do not feed dill during the growing season with either mineral or organic fertilizers;
  • dill is watered once a week, in hot weather and no rain - twice as often, keeping the earth moist.

Dill should be watered at least once a week.

How to grow dill correctly - video

The reasons for poor growth of dill can be the following: acidic soil, lack of light, poor seed preparation, their poor quality, violation of the rules for growing a fragrant vegetable. Sowing and watering dill on time, each gardener will be able to achieve a positive result and provide his family with healthy green products.


What is wrong with the summer resident, whose entire dill in the garden has turned yellow

Dill is an unpretentious garden crop. However, sometimes summer residents are faced with the problem of yellowing of the leaves. Knowing what provokes this undesirable complication, you can avoid problems in growing spicy greens and get a rich harvest.


Young dill turns yellow in the garden. Why does dill turn yellow?

Dill is a rather demanding plant, and if you miss something, it immediately starts to deteriorate. It can turn yellow from an overabundance of the sun, from an insufficient amount of water, or vice versa, from overflow it also begins to turn yellow. He does not like crowding, each plant must be planted from each other at a distance of at least 7 cm. Dill has a small root system and overcrowding, it lacks nutrients.

Most often, dill turns yellow from lack of water. Its root system is very small, so it needs to be watered well.

If the watering is sufficient, and the dill turns yellow, then the soil is depleted and it lacks nutrients, then you just need to feed the soil.

Less often, dill turns yellow due to the fact that, on the contrary, an excess of moisture, more often after heavy and prolonged rains, which also wash out nutrients. In this case, you can also simply feed the soil.

There are many reasons for yellowing of dill. But the very first is the lack of minerals. To prevent this from happening, you must first choose the right place for sowing, where there is no shade. Before sowing, the land is fertilized with humus or compost. It is not necessary to lime the earth and bring in ash, otherwise the seedlings will be red. Dill should be watered once a week, if the weather is very hot, then twice a week. And the main thing is to choose the right seeds.

The yellowing of dill can be for various reasons:

  • the soil is not fertile, dill lacks nutrients (it is better to fertilize the soil with manure or humus),
  • the seeds are planted too close to each other (the way out is thinning the beds or planting seeds 10-30 cm apart from each other),
  • too dry soil, lack of moisture, therefore, on dry days, dill must be watered.

If dill emerges, but grows slowly, its leaves are thin, yellowish, then most likely it lacks nitrogen. This more often happens on depleted or poor soils in which organic fertilizers have not been applied for a long time, such as rotted manure, grass compost. Thickened sowing, waterlogging is also possible. With a lack of moisture, dill simply dries out (without yellowness. Cold weather can also be one of the common reasons for yellowing of dill and parsley leaves.


"Friends" vegetables in the beds. Compatibility of crops in the garden

Compatibility of crops in the garden

Each crop in the garden has its own characteristics. One needs enough light, the other feels comfortable in partial shade. Also, the requirements for irrigation and the occupied area are different. The root system of plants is also different. In some plants, it goes deep into the soil, while in others, the roots are located at the surface of the earth. In addition, some plants have a detrimental effect on this or that pest. And if you take into account all the features of garden crops and combine them during planting?

Compatibility of crops in the garden will make it possible not only to rationally use the area for planting, but also to naturally protect plants from diseases and pests, to ensure correct growth and maturation of plants, thereby increasing the quality and quantity of the crop.

If you place crops correctly on your site, then even in the conditions of non-black earth and a small plot, it is possible to get a decent harvest from the garden. The compatibility of crops in the garden is practiced with mixed and compacted crops. Cultures must be selected taking into account their mutual influence on each other.

Compatibility of crops in the garden

B azilik gets along well with peas and kohlrabi, but does not like the neighborhood with a cucumber.

B aklazhan agrees to be adjacent to green annual herbs, onions, beans, peppers, bush beans, spinach, thyme, amaranth. Fennel and peas are not suitable for eggplant neighbors most of all.

Used vegetable feel great with peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radish, cucumber, beetroot, garden savory. Onions, fennel, garlic and pumpkin are incompatible with beans.

Gorokh will be glad to be next to white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, aromatic herbs, spinach and lettuce. And on the contrary, he will not be happy with onions, tomatoes, beans, garlic, zucchini.

Horck perfectly compatible with cabbage (white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower), peas, radish. Other plants in the garden will also suit mustard as neighbors.

D aikon, for example, he does not like neighbors at all and he himself is not suitable for neighbors!

D ynya compatible with sweet corn, pumpkin, zucchini, radish. But it does not get along well with onions and potatoes.

And ssop medicinal with crops in the garden is bad friends.

K abachok grows well next to tomato, beet, onion, corn, melon, pumpkin, borago, nasturtium. bad neighbors for zucchini are potatoes and cabbage.

Cabbage white cabbage feels great next to dill, celery, onions, garlic, lettuce, potatoes, cucumber, radishes, beets, beans, spinach, mint, nasturtium, marigolds, and is not friendly with tomatoes, carrots, beans and curly beans and peas.

Broccoli compatible with potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, cabbage salad, beetroot, celery, sage, chard, marigolds. Broccoli does not get along well with tomato and beans.

K apusta kohlrabi will be glad to be next to onions, cucumber, aromatic plants, radishes, lettuce, beetroot, peas, fennel, spinach. Bad neighborhood with tomato and beans.
Leaf kapusta gets along well with all plants in the garden, but especially with late white cabbage and potatoes.

K apusta savoy does not get along well with all the crops in the garden.

Cauliflower will feel comfortable with potatoes, cucumber, salad, celery, beans, beans, dill, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, sage. Neighborhood with tomato and strawberry will not work.

K artophle will get along well with beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish, eggplant and onions, beans, calendula, corn, onions, radishes, radishes, garlic, but absolutely will not tolerate the neighborhood of tomato, cucumber, pumpkin, sorrel, fennel.

K ress salad will be glad to be next to radishes, but other plants in the garden will not interfere with him.

K Ruknek and L Agenaria love to grow up alone.

To corn will be supportive of peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, beans, beans, salad. It gets along poorly with beetroot and fennel.

Leek good neighbor for onions, carrots, celery.

Bulb onions compatible with Brussels sprouts, carrots, lettuce, beetroot, cucumber, tomato, chicory salad, savory, potatoes, strawberries. Will feel bad next to peas, radishes, beans, beans, cabbage, radish.

M ayoran garden compatible with carrots, but will not tolerate cucumber next to it.

Carrot it is good to plant next to tomatoes, peas, broccoli, leeks, onions, cucumbers, parsley, radishes, lettuce, beetroot, sage, spinach, radish, celery. Incompatible plants for carrots are dill, anise, fennel, cabbage, beet Swiss chard.

About gurtsy very well planted with peas or late white cabbage, sweet corn, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, beans, garlic, fennel, but they should not be planted next to potatoes and aromatic herbs. Tomatoes, sage, asparagus, zucchini, rhubarb, turnips, and leeks will also be bad neighbors.

P asternak is friendly with salad. But his friendship with onions and garlic fails.

P attison prefers solitude, he does not like anyone's neighborhood.

P eretz compatible with eggplants, tomatoes, basil, carrots, lovage, marjoram, oregano, onion. Will not be too happy with dill, fennel, cucumber, kohlrabi.

Sheet p etsrushka will gladly share a bed with basil, onions, cucumbers, asparagus, tomatoes, beans, carrots. Will not be too happy about the head salad.

R even makes great friends with peas, cabbage, radishes, lettuce, celery, beans and spinach. But he will not be happy with turnips, potatoes, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beets, tomatoes and onions.

R edis friends with cabbage, carrots, turnips, lettuce, tomato, beans, beans, fennel, spinach, zucchini, pumpkin. It will not suit its neighborhood with onions, beetroot chard.

Radish-beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumber, pumpkin and tomato (plant without thickening), and enemies are hyssop, onions, fennel.

Repa feels good next to onions (all types), beets, spinach, celery, lettuce, bush beans, dill. It is important to plant the plants in the garden bed freely. Turnips will be uncomfortable next to potatoes.

From alatu suitable neighbors such as: cabbage, carrots, beets, dill.

From the eyelid gets along well with all cabbage, onions, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, beans. Bad neighborhood with potatoes, mustard.

With eldress compatible with white cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, onion, tomato, beans, cucumber, spinach. Celery is not compatible with head lettuce, potatoes.

From parge grows well next to basil, parsley and tomato. Bad neighbors for asparagus onions of all kinds.

Tomatoes (tomatoes) will grow well with basil, cabbage, all onions, parsley, radishes, radishes, lettuce, asparagus, beans, garlic, beans, corn, carrots, spinach. Bad companions for tomatoes are peas, potatoes, kohlrabi cabbage, garden quinoa, cucumbers, turnips, dill, fennel.

T pumpkin perfectly coexists with zucchini, squash, melon. Pumpkin will not be happy only with potatoes.

Fasol common grows remarkably next to peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radish, cucumber, beetroot, garden savory. Onions, pumpkin, garlic, fennel do not get along well with common beans.

Fasol bush compatible with cucumber, potatoes, cabbage, head lettuce, turnip, radish, radish, rhubarb, celery, spinach, tomato. Not a very good neighborhood will be with asparagus, curly beans, zucchini, fennel.

X ren goes well with potatoes.

Ts ikoriy salad will accept onions, carrots, tomatoes, fennel well.

H aber garden compatible with watercress, onions, parsley, tomatoes, beans, dill, spinach. A cucumber will not work as a neighbor.

Garlic willingly make friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsley, lettuce, tomatoes, beets, celery, beans. Garlic will not grow comfortably next to peas, cabbage, beans.

Sh pinat compatible with such crops: cabbage (all types), potatoes, carrots, turnips, garden strawberries, beets, beans, tomatoes.Zucchini, asparagus, fennel do not coexist very well with spinach.

For convenience, use the table of compatibility of crops in the garden:

Vegetable Compatibility Chart:

Crop compatibility chart

Another important aspect when selecting components for mixed crops in your area is:

The ability of some plants to repel harmful insects

Onion scares off spider mites

M akhorka for cabbage fly

Garlic and alder cruciferous fleas won't like

n omidora have a bad effect on copperhead and moth

Celery apach scares away cabbage fly.

You can also fight harmful insects with the help of wild plants.

For this, gardeners and gardeners often use infusions.

The drug from chamomile inflorescences scares away and even destroys many pests of the garden and vegetable garden.

To prepare the preparation, the chamomile inflorescences are collected and dried. Then they are ground into powder, mixed with an equal amount of road dust.

For spraying take 200 gr. powder, stir in a small amount of water and add water to the norm of 10 liters. This preparation is absolutely harmless, and it can be used to process various crops even before the harvest itself.

Against aphids and spider mites, which greatly harm cucumbers and cabbage, plants are sprayed with infusion of potato tops.

In order to prepare such an infusion, we need 1.2 kg of crushed mass. Insist 2-3 hours in 10 liters of water and filter.

For the same purpose, you can use:

ABOUTcreature of stepchildren and tops of tomatoes.

To do this, take green mass at the rate of 40 grams per 1 liter of water and, crushing, boil over low heat for up to 30 minutes. One glass of the broth obtained in this way is enough for 1 liter of water. Add 30 grams of soap or washing powder to the finished broth and spray the plants.

An infusion of onion peel, chamomile, tobacco, garlic, yarrow, horse sorrel roots and dandelion leaves also helps against aphids and ticks.

We will tell you more about pests and crop compatibility in further publications.


We plant dill in the garden

It would seem that growing dill is as easy as shelling pears. Maybe you should try?

But before planting dill, you need to choose a variety for planting, carefully study its characteristics. Some varieties produce a lot of greenery, others more seeds.

Dill varieties differ among themselves not only in the height of the bush and the shape of the flowers, but also in different ripening periods.

For example, the early ripe variety Gribovsky reaches a height of only 25 cm, but the weight of the green mass collected from the bush per season reaches 1 kg.

Gribovsky can be sown in April. It is frost-resistant, gives a lot of greenery even in cold summers, undemanding to soil and weather conditions, resistant to pests and diseases. It takes a month and a half from germination to the first harvest of leaves.

The Dalny variety ripens in 40-45 days. A characteristic feature of this variety is the presence of a wax coating on the leaves. This dill is grown commercially. It is prized for its resistance to rainstorms, during which it does not lie down. He is not afraid of frost, he is resistant to pests.

Both of these varieties can be sown throughout the summer on greenery. Usually dill is sown every 14 days.

In order to get fresh greens as early as possible in spring, dill is sown before winter from October to November.

Despite the fact that dill is a rather unpretentious plant, you should still choose a place for it in advance. He prefers sunny beds. Can grow in partial shade. But the green mass will give less.

In the place where dill sowing is planned, there should be no stagnant water.

It is undesirable to plant dill in one place for two years in a row. He will not grow even where carrots, celery, parsley grew before him. But it grows well in the beds where cabbage, beets, tomatoes, legumes used to grow. Dill planted in their place can do without fertilizers.

Next to dill, according to experienced gardeners, you should plant cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, cabbage. Dill should not be planted next to potatoes, as the Colorado potato beetle attacks the potatoes. To get rid of it, potato bushes are often treated with pesticides, which, once on dill, will also enter the human body.

It is better to prepare the soil for spring planting of dill in the fall. Compost or humus is added to the beds at the rate of 3 kg per sq. m or bird droppings, mullein 1/2 bucket per 1 sq. m. You can make any complex fertilizer. At the same time, the earth is dug onto the bayonet of a shovel.
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In the spring, it would be good to add wood ash 0.1-0.2 kg per square meter to the soil. m. After that, the beds are loosened with a rake to make the soil air and water permeable.

Only after that they start sowing the selected variety of dill.

But for sowing, you need to prepare the seeds themselves. To improve the germination of dill seeds, they are poured with warm water for two days, while the water is changed as it cools.

In order to protect the dill from the diseases that threaten it, after soaking, the seeds are washed with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, then running water and dried. Dill is sown in bulk.

Some, after soaking, the seeds are wrapped in a damp cloth and left for another 2-4 days at room temperature, until sprouts appear.

There is also a tip - soak the dill seeds for 15 minutes in hot water + 60 C for 3 minutes, then put them in a cup of vodka for 15 minutes.

When sowing seeds, furrows are prepared with a depth of 1.5-2 cm and a width of 5 cm. Between rows of 20 cm. The furrows are well watered, the dill seeds are sown evenly, trying to make them fall rather rarely and cover them with soil. You no longer need to water them on top.

Experts advise covering the dill garden with a film. It will preserve moisture and protect it from morning frosts. When the first shoots appear, the film is removed.

Before winter, it is recommended to sow seeds 2 cm deeper than in spring. Or scatter the seeds over the garden bed, and cover the top with soil with humus at the rate of 1 bucket of humus per 1 square meter. m. In the spring, you need to break the film formed during the melting of the snow with a rake.

Dill care is not very difficult.

Water it 1-2 times a week, more often during dry summer. A sprinkler must be worn on the watering can or hose so as not to crush the plants with an uncontrolled stream of water.

When the dill grows 10 cm, it is thinned out. Densely growing dill will not produce abundant juicy greens, it will become thin and stretched. Plucked dill is used for food.

Dill must be weeded to remove weeds. After watering or rain, the planting of dill is loosened about 5 cm in depth.

Dill can grow without any additional feeding, but if crops grow sparse and weak, then they must be fed with an aqueous solution of bird droppings or mullein in a ratio of 1:10. Some gardeners use fertilizer with nitrophosphate or urea -10 g per 1 sq. M. Such fertilizers are applied during the first feeding of mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties, when they have 2-3 leaves. After 3 weeks, they are fed with urea 15 g per 3-4 square meters. m. Fertilizers should be poured at the root and not on the leaves. After feeding, the beds are watered abundantly.

Many gardeners mulch beds with dill, humus or peat. In this case, the top layer of the soil is not threatened with drying out, and it does not harden.

In extreme heat, dill can begin to wilt. In this case, a homemade canopy is installed over it, you can stretch the fabric on pegs.

To increase the yield of greenery, the umbrellas are pinched, pinching off the leaf to the axil as soon as it begins to appear. After pinching, after a while, a new stem with leaves will grow from the leaf axil.

Most often, aphids attack dill. Due to the short growing season, dill cannot be treated with chemicals. Therefore, they use folk remedies.

Pluck nettles, fill it with water and leave it for several days. Then the dill is watered. This infusion not only kills insects, but also nourishes the plant.

Ash infusion
Ashes are poured with boiling water, planed laundry or tar soap is added and insisted for 24 hours. Then dill is poured over it.

Onion infusion helps to fight against earthen fleas and umbrella moths.

Onion husks are poured with hot water and insisted for two days. Then it is treated with strained dill infusion.

Against downy mildew, which covers the leaves with a whitish coating, they fight by treating the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Rust fungus covers the plant with brown spots. In this case, the beds with diseased dill are sprayed every 10 days with Bordeaux liquid..

There is also a phomosis. With this disease, black spots appear on the leaves and shoots. The affected bushes will have to be removed, and the rest of the garden is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Greens from early varieties of dill are harvested after 33-35 days. Then the plants begin to bloom. The greens are first cut from the bottom of the bush, then from the middle, and lastly from the top of the bush. If seeds are needed, then a bush with formed umbrellas is cut with scissors at the root, and the root itself is pulled out and thrown away. Umbrellas are used for canning.

Mid-season varieties such as "Kibray", "Richelieu", "Abundant-leaved" and others are ready for cutting a week later than early dill. Leaves are collected from them in the same way, starting from the bottom.

Dill is best harvested in cool weather.

For seeds, dill is pulled out of the ground, the root is cut off, the stems are tied into sheaves and dried for a week, then threshed.

Fresh dill is stored in the refrigerator for no more than a week.

For winter storage, dill is dried, frozen and salted.

Leaves without thick stems, which are tied in bunches and dried in the shade, are suitable for drying.

You can also chop the dill leaves, put on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at a temperature of +35 C. The oven door remains ajar. It takes about 3 hours to dry. If the dill is crushed into dust between the fingers, then it is ready for storage. Store it in a glass jar under a lid.

For storage in frozen form, dill is washed, dried on a towel, cut into small pieces and placed in containers or plastic bags. Then they are placed in a refrigerator.

Salted dill is well stored. To do this, it is washed, dried, finely cut and placed in sterilized jars in rows, sprinkled with salt. The greens are tamped tightly. 1 kg of dill takes 1 kg of salt.


I can not breed dill in the garden. What to do?

For several years I have been trying to breed dill in the garden. I have heard many times that this plant is like a weed, but for some reason it does not grow with me. I bought seeds in different places, took them from a friend - nothing at all. Not that it doesn't come up at all. Several stunted plants still make their way out of the ground. But it's just a pity to look at them. I do not process the garden with any chemicals, I water it from time to time. Apparently, this is not the case.

If you try to sow it in the summer, then such a thing does not always work out. It is better to sow in very early spring, or before winter. And for the first time, the seedbed should be decently fertilized with humus. For an independent dill life, it is best for the dill to stand in the umbrella state until winter. Then the overwintered seeds will give the gardener heat for many years.

It happens that dill still does not take root well. The earth is sour. Then a separate bed is made for him, the soil on which is preliminarily deacidified. This is done with ordinary slaked lime. It is possible and ash, but ash is needed many times more.

In general, try and not give up.

Dill, which grows on its own, like a weed in the garden, is most likely early. Sow Gribovsky, leave it in the garden for the winter, or tie it in sheaves and hang it somewhere on the fence. You can also cover the garlic beds for the winter with dill stalks to keep snow in, and then the seeds will be sifted around the garden by themselves. Late varieties cannot be diluted this way, their seeds will not ripen. But the early varieties, the same Gribovsky, are good for pickling cucumbers, and there are few greens from them.

The late varieties have the best greens. Alligator, Salute are especially good, but you need to buy seeds every year. And yet you can grow them, if you sow them in a greenhouse, you need to grow a few plants in a tomato, or even better, in a cucumber greenhouse. Only these are large plants and do not spare space for it. First, sow thicker so that there are early greens, then thin out, remove those plants that are worse and in a greenhouse dill can ripen until late autumn, you just need to water it well. A huge leaf apparatus requires a lot of water.

To breed dill in the garden, it must be scattered before the winter for plowing. I heard that there are such cases that "well, there is no way to dissolve." And it happens that suddenly disappeared somewhere. They associate this with a heavy-handed person with whom they shared seeds or dill. In fact, you have to take a pretty penny for everything, a symbolic payment. And you yourself need not take, but buy for the same coin (not paper money). The omen is, it really works.

I can also please you a little by the fact that if dill does not flicker all over your garden, then it is not a top dressing and bait for aphids and ants. Juicy fennel that emerges early attracts ants in terms of spreading aphids. Then they will drag this dirty trick from the dill over beets, pumpkins and cucumbers. Well, for fruit trees. Therefore, be afraid of dill in the garden. Sow him in the garden and make sure that the ants do not bring guests to you. Stop ant paths in time. Syrup with sugar and boric acid is the most effective and cheapest ant antiserum.

A neighbor got me and herself a high-quality gorgeous dill mushroom. We were so happy about him .. until we got the makeweight to him. I urgently removed a maximum of dill bushes and poured the rest with an ash solution. Aphids do not like phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, they wither there.

Here is my garden in the spring: solid dill, handsome. I had to withdraw.


Top dressing of dill crops

We introduce nitrogen in the form of a mullein solution or weed tincture. To get it, we throw the weeds into a barrel of water, water the garden with this liquid. It is convenient and effective to dissolve a small amount of saltpeter or complex fertilizer in irrigation water.

There are situations when there are not enough other batteries. For example, a lack of potassium is common in peat bogs, and of trace elements - copper. But dill is an undemanding culture, it is not stored fresh for a long time, and it is nitrogen that affects the growth of the vegetative mass. We feed with any nitrogen fertilizer: nitrate (there are 4 of them), urea, ammonia water and anhydrous ammonia. Ammonia and ammonia water are rarely used in smallholders due to the complexity of handling them.

It is convenient to apply complex fertilizers, where other nutrients are also present: potassium nitrate, ammophos, diammophos, nitrophosphate, ammonium orthophosphate and others. But you should not make increased doses in the hope of a rapid growth of greenery: this also increases the content of nitrates, which are harmful to health.

We hope the tips contained in the article will help you learn how to grow good dill and the vegetable garden will delight you with a generous harvest.

What is the reason for the poor growth of dill - video


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