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AUTUMN COLCHICIA, Plant, Maintain, Divide with Our Website!

AUTUMN COLCHICIA, Plant, Maintain, Divide with Our Website!


Colchicum or beautiful autumn ...

It has many names this flower: autumn colchicum, meadow saffron, autumn crocus, bastard saffron… It is the distant cousin of the crocus the 2 plants are not of the same kind, it is especially its cousin of summer and autumn in the garden. Be careful, unlike the crocus whose pistils are harvested to make saffron, colchicum is toxic by ingestion.

The plant first produces the large erect flowers, then the leaves, which will remain until spring.
The colchicum has a particularity, it is the corm. It’s a kind of bulb - which it’s not - it’s actually a strong stem whose base is covered with scales. It is this stem that grows to form flowers, then leaves. The flowers resemble that of a crocus. Colchicum - Colchicum automnale - is THE most cultivated genus of colchicum, although not widely cultivated in our gardens after all. It is still sometimes found, in the wild, in eastern France.

Botanical name:

Colchicum

Type of plant

Family : Colchicaceae or Liliaceae
• Cycle: perennial
• Hardiness: hardy -15 ° C
Foliage : obsolete
Exposure : partial shade - shade
Soil: humus, cool to wet
• Harbor : erected
• Rooting: Corme

Particularities

• Info: colchicum contains colchicine which is used in the manufacture of medicines.
• Cold resistance:
down to -15 ° C
Flowering : summer and autumn
Interview : nothing
Height: 10 to 25 cm
• Toxicity: Toxic by ingestion

When to plant them?

• Planting of corms in April, May and June
• In autumn, in regions with cold winters down to -10-15 ° C.

How to plant them?

Prepare the ground:

• Dig to the depth of a half-spade about 15 cm deep.
• Depending on the nature of the soil, strengthen compost and potting soil.
• Take the plant out of the container and scratch the root ball with your hand or with a hand rake.
• Place the plant.
• Leave 10-15 cm of space between plants.
• Tamp, water, it's planted!

Gardening info:

• Crome sinks into the earth year after year.
• He doesn't appreciate being moved.

Flowering period:

• July to November

Interview:

• Watering: summer if necessary, cool soil.

Some varieties ...

• Colchicum speciosum: purple pink, with a white heart
• Colchicum byzantum: blooms in soilless and waterless, white or purple color
• Autumnal Colchicum: pink, mauve, or white

Agrees with

• Cyclamen, coum cyclamen and all the small shade and fall flowers.

With or without a garden ...

In the garden : on the edge, in rockery, in light woods
Without garden: in pot with heuches.

We recap

• Perennial: perennial
• Hardiness: down to -15 ° C
• Flowering: summer and autumn
• Color: white, pink, purple, mauve (some varieties of Colchicum exist in yellow)
• Type of soil: rich humus and fresh
• Planting: open ground - planting corms (kind of bulb) in July or August.
• Maintenance: cool soil all summer and cover the bulbs with compost in September
• Use: under wood, shaded massif

Exposure

Watering

High.

Space between plants

Depth

partial shade - shade

fresh soil

15 to 25 cm

10 cm

10-15cm


Ornithogale: Plant, culture, size and care

Native to South Africa, this bulbous plant is part of the liliaceae family. There are currently 80 different species of this plant. Offering a magnificent orange bloom during the month of March, this perennial can reach a height of 30 cm.

This flower is usually found on stony slopes. This plant can be planted outdoors, of course, but ornithogalum is a plant more suited to growing indoors. Ornithogalum is a plant with large bulbs from which several flower stalks grow. Flowers which are rather large are grouped together in groups.

Generally, you can enjoy this beautiful bloom for a month. Let's not forget to point out that this plant is southern, so that means it blooms during the rainy summer in the heart of Africa and rests in the winter when the weather is dry. However, developing in Europe is different. Flowering occurs from late winter to early spring and goes dormant in summer until early fall.


The GardenOscope on the practical side, the right things to do in the garden

Chrysanthemums, whose name means' golden flower 'in Greek, are plants of the Asteraceae family that are too systematically associated with pots placed on graves each year on All Saints' Day. Certainly, with over 23 million plants purchased each year, these are arguably the best-selling plants in late October - early November. But many perennial varieties are offered under the name of 'Marguerite d'automne', in order to forget about cemeteries and give these flowers a place they deserve in our gardens. Alongside the asters, the chrysanthemums provide an autumnal spectacle thanks to a wide palette of colors (white, yellow, orange, red, two-tone.) And shapes.


Chrysanthemum indicum orange

1> When and where should they be planted?
You should not plant them in the fall, but in the spring, after the last frosts have passed. The autumn daisy, like all chrysanthemums, needs sunlight: choose a clear bed where you have worked and regularly amended the soil. In August, spread a little fertilizer (12-12-23) at the foot of your chrysanthemums every year.

Repotting: Repot in mid-May for uniflores, in April-May for waterfalls, and at the beginning of June for pots and cut flowers.


Chrysanthemum indicum pink-fuchsia

2> Are they really rustic?
Fall daisies are hardy however, if you plant them in bloom in the fall, when they cannot stand transplanting, some will not withstand the harshness of winter. Moreover, the chrysanthemums bought in Toussaint have undergone a "forcing" which weakens them at the level of the roots and the vegetation.

In practice: Establish small plants in the spring by improving soil drainage, especially in rich soils. Finally, never completely clean the plants before winter.

You can also keep chrysanthemums bought in the fall under shelter and regenerate them from February - March by resuming watering of the hotpot, in a room or veranda at medium temperature in order to promote the formation of suckers.

3> What is a cascade chrysanthemum:
The "waterfalls" are a group apart with named varieties "Orléans waterfalls" . They require a complicated cultivation protocol, repeated every year, developed by Japanese horticulturalists.
The principle is to let the main rod lengthen without ever pinching it, by keeping it inclined at 45 ° using stakes (see photos below). The lateral rods thus all form on the same side. They are plucked at regular intervals, from spring until September 15, in order to maintain a regular cascade.

4> How to multiply chrysanthemums?

  • The cuttings in green is the most practiced method. You cut pieces of stems of 8 to 10 cm that you thin out at the base, leaving 2 or 3 leaves. Then place the cuttings in a smothered place at 20-25 ° C for rooting which will occur in about 15 days. You can cut waterfalls from January, uniflora in mid-February, and other varieties from May.
  • or else you recover suckers which appear at the base of the mother plants.
  • The division: Fans prefer suckers, which start up very well outside from April 15th and immediately give strong plants.
  • In all cases, the rooting is done in pots or terrine, in a rather rich cutting soil.
  • Professionals use the traditional cutting which allows them to take from the end of winter.

5> In which soil to plant them in the garden?
Chrysanthemums have wrongly earned a reputation as greedy by dint of being "fattened" in pots.
In the garden, the autumn daisy is neither more nor less voracious than asters or other perennials.

Do-it-yourself substrate and fertilizer advice:
In a 60 liter wheelbarrow, mix:
30 liters of blond peat
15 liters of soil from your composter
15 liters of garden soil
200 g of fertilizer made from cattle, horse and / or poultry manure (Bochevo)
200 g of slow release fertilizer 16-8-12

6> Which diseases are to be feared?

  • Powdery mildew is to be feared in some varieties, but the most serious disease is rust that thrives in pots that are poorly fed or overloaded with nitrogen. It is first necessary to restore a food balance with doses of fertilizer.
  • Chrysanthemums can also be subject to attack by parasites: Aphids outside, nematodes in greenhouse, red spiders, thrips, whiteflies, leaf miners, Without forgetting slugs. to fight by spraying insecticide or nematicide, or any appropriate means from the first symptoms.

7> Why sacrifice shoots or buds?
Removing auxiliary shoots under a terminal bud results in more than a flower but larger on a vigorous stem. Use this method to form beautiful chrysanthemum heads. The earlier you intervene in the development of the plant, the more the effect will be amplified.

Disbudding can also be done on a plant that has been allowed to branch out first. The principle remains the same: eliminate competing buds from a terminal flower.

For uniflores, disbudding consists of removing the lateral buds as soon as they appear in order to obtain a larger flower. If the first button appears in June-July, remove it; you will then select the button that will appear after August 15, while still preserving an emergency button.

8> What is the pinch for?
The pinching aims to obtain squat shapes, by shortening the stems, which will thus branch out. The number of flowers increases in proportion to the number of branches. The first pinching is done very early on the cutting that is topped for about 2 to 3 cm. It is followed a month and a half later by a second series of pinches on each stalk.

To reconstitute well rounded and branched tufts, in June, cut the upper third of the stems in the center and at half height those of the periphery.


Flowered public bench Place de l'Eglise in Saint-Jean-Le-Blanc (45)

9> How to preserve the feet of chrysanthemums in winter?

  • When the aerial parts are wilted and dry (at the end of November or at the beginning of December in principle), prune the plants short 3 cm above the level of the ground, suppress the suckers and the weeds.
  • For potted plants, scrape the surface of the soil to aerate the substrate.
  • Be aware that excess moisture and wind are unsuitable for chrysanthemums and are more to be feared than frost.
  • If the temperature drops below -10 ° C, push the pots into the ground if possible to prevent the plant from freezing by the roots and if the weather gets really too cold, cover the plants with a mattress of dry leaves. Note that you will need to remove these leaves as soon as the cold is over.
  • Remember to protect your plants from slugs and snails from the first sunny days and then resume watering gradually at the end of February, beginning of March.


Where to plant mallow?

You have the choice between planting or seed mallow, and therefore you have three options for planting or sowing it:

You can sow in a box by placing it in partial shade.

You can also choose to put it in full ground, in the sun, and in ordinary soil provided it is well-drained. She likes poor soils and dry, light soils.

You can also plant in pot preferably on your terrace or balcony in the sun.

This plant flowers more easily and more abundantly in the sun.

It appreciates poor soils and even a little chalky, rather dry and well drained.


  • Vegetables : artichoke, asparagus, chard, carrot, endive, spinach, lettuce, turnip, radish
  • Fruits : strawberry, kiwi, rhubarb
  • Herbs : dill, chervil, sorrel, parsley, thyme

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Come on, we'll meet again next month for some new gardening tips… Have a good April!


How to plant and cultivate rhodohypoxis?

Rhodohypoxis is a plant native to a hot and humid region, but the winter turns out to be dry. It is for this reason that it presents a kind of rusticity in the heart of Europe. Not afraid of the cold, this plant does however fear the humidity present near its roots. If you want to cultivate this plant in a simple way, it is recommended to install it in a pot which will allow you to easily place it away from frost during the winter season.

We advise you to plant rhodohypoxis during the spring season in perfectly drained soil to promote its development. During the flowering season, this plant needs moist soil, but the roots should not be flooded with water. For this, prepare a pot of non-calcareous sand and potting soil rich in organic matter. You can also promote drainage by adding clay balls to the bottom. Obviously, it will be necessary to set up quality watering. Know that your plant must imperatively be placed in a sunny situation, so as to receive several hours of sun per day. Every month, it is recommended to also give it a little touch of fertilizer to help it develop and enjoy a beautiful flowering.

When flowering is complete at the end of summer, it will then be necessary to stop your watering and place your pot away from frost, but also from the rain that may appear during winter. If you have made the decision to place your plant in the ground, you may well remove your bulbs to protect them. If you live in an area not affected by frost, then you may well be able to install only winter precipitation protection.


  • To plant aster, all you need to do is open a large bowl and enrich the soil with manure or compost and organic fertilizer.
  • Then bury the stump
  • Lightly tamp the soil.

Multiply aster

Aster can be propagated either by division or by cuttings.

Divide the aster

  • This should be done in spring or late fall:
  • Dig up the stump and loosen the young and vigorous peripheral parts.
  • You replant each part in different places.
  • Care should be taken to choose a cool location if your plant is affected by powdery mildew.

Cutting an aster

The cuttings are done in spring and on tender branches. You should know that the plants obtained are less vigorous than those which you obtain with division. Then it will take two or three years before they flower.


All you need to know about lupine

Made up of erect and tight clusters 50 to 60 cm high, this plant adapts very well to beds and wild gardens.

The flowering is generous and will bring a lot of color and pleasure to your garden, especially to your flower beds and borders.

Lupins also adapt perfectly to bouquets, all you have to do is cut the floral stalk at the foot of the stem.

Lupines have been cultivated for over 4,000 years to use their protein-rich seeds in animal feed. But beware, many species are poisonous and should therefore not be eaten. (Photo © Yuli)


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