Using sawdust in the garden, vegetable garden and greenhouse
Sawdust as mulching material, sawdust in greenhouses and greenhouses
- How does sawdust affect the soil?
- Sawdust as a mulching material
- Sawdust in greenhouses and greenhouses
- Sawdust in compost
- Sawdust on strawberry ridges
- Sawdust when forming ridges in low places
- Sawdust on high ridges
- Sawdust as a substrate for seed germination
- Sawdust for an early harvest of potatoes
About the benefits of sawdust
The overwhelming majority of gardeners are convinced of the value of such fertilizer as manure, although at current prices very few people buy it, alas, they cannot afford it. But few people know about the benefits of sawdust, although it is a very valuable organic matter, which, if used correctly, can provide very good results.
At the same time, this organic material in considerable quantities regularly appears in everyone who enthusiastically continues to do construction work in their garden. Yes, and buying a sawdust car for many is not a problem, because in comparison with manure, they are much cheaper. Sometimes some enterprises even take them to the landfill.
Meanwhile, there are quite a few options for using sawdust in a garden plot - they are laid in compost, used as a mulching material and when forming ridges, they are sprinkled on paths, etc. And even used as a substrate for the germination of potatoes and seeds, seedlings are grown on them. However, you should not take these words completely literally and start right away, for example, grow tomatoes on sawdust or cover raspberries with a thick layer of sawdust - nothing good will come of it, since everything is not so simple.
How does sawdust affect the soil?
Soils containing a large amount of loosening organic substances, in particular sawdust, are breathable and absorb moisture well, and plants on such lands thrive. Such soils practically do not form a crust harmful to plants, which means that they need to be loosened much less often.
However, all this is true only in the case of using rotted or at least semi-rotted sawdust, which, unlike fresh sawdust, have dark brown or, accordingly, light brown shades. And rotting sawdust is a slow process: fresh sawdust rotting in the open air very slowly (10 years or more). The reason is that the sawdust needs live organic matter and water to heat it.
There is no living organic matter in the heap with sawdust, and as for water, it also does not exist inside the heap, since the top layer of sawdust forms a crust through which moisture does not seep into the heap. There are two ways to speed up the reheating: either add sawdust in small doses to the compost heap or greenhouse beds along with fresh manure, or use it as mulch after enrichment with nitrogen.
In addition, the sawdust from our tree species, unfortunately, slightly acidifies the soil. Therefore, when using them in large quantities, the soil must be additionally limed.
Sawdust as a mulching material
For mulching, you can use rotted, semi-rotten, or even fresh sawdust with a layer of 3-5 cm - such mulch will be especially good under bushes, in raspberries and on vegetable ridges. Over-matured and semi-rotted sawdust can be used directly, and fresh sawdust will have to be pre-prepared, if this is not done, then they will take nitrogen from the soil, and therefore from plants, as a result, the plantings will wither.
The preparation process is relatively simple - you need to put a large film on a free area, then pour 3 buckets of sawdust, 200 g of urea on it in succession and evenly pour a 10-liter watering can of water, then again in the same order: sawdust, urea, water, etc. etc. At the end, close the entire structure hermetically with a film, pressing it down with stones. After two weeks, the sawdust can be safely used.
True, it is wiser to use such a mulching material only in the first half of summer, when moisture from the soil is actively evaporating. In this case, in the second half of the summer, only one memory will remain from the mulch, tk. thanks to the vigorous activity of worms and loosening, it will be well mixed with the soil. If such a thick layer of sawdust is poured in the second half of summer, when there is a lot of rainfall, then such mulch will prevent the evaporation of excess moisture from the soil, which will negatively affect the ripening of annual shoots in fruit and berry plants and their preparation for winter.
If the mulch layer turned out to be too large, and its mixing with the soil did not occur, then in the second half of summer, with heavy rains, it is imperative to carefully loosen the mulched soil. If the rains are rare, then this operation can be transferred to the fall, but you will still have to loosen (or dig or process with a flat cutter, if we are talking about vegetable ridges), otherwise in the spring the frozen layer of sawdust will delay the thawing of the soil layer. This is especially important for areas where planting is carried out early.
Sawdust in greenhouses and greenhouses
Indoors, sawdust is absolutely irreplaceable. It is useful to season with them both manure and plant residues. In combination with sawdust, manure and all kinds of tops are warmed up faster in spring. In addition, the speed of their overheating increases, and the resulting compost will turn out to be much better both in terms of looseness and air permeability, and in terms of its nutritional value and variety of composition.
It should only be borne in mind that when using fresh manure, fresh sawdust is used, which will take away excess nitrogen from it, and if rotted manure is introduced, or if you do without it at all, then only rotted sawdust is used - they do not need additional nitrogen.
Sawdust can be introduced into the ridges of greenhouses and greenhouses both in spring and autumn, and it is best to mix them with other fragments of the formed soil. It is most reasonable to lay a layer of plant residues on the ridges in the fall in the form of straw, fallen leaves, cut grass and various tops. And in the spring add a layer of fresh manure, sprinkle the latter with lime and a small amount of fresh sawdust, then mix the manure with other organic residues with a pitchfork. After that, you will need to cover the manure with a small layer of straw or leaves, lay a layer of soil, adding ash and mineral fertilizers to it. For better heating, it is also advisable to spill the ridges with boiling water and cover with foil.
Sawdust in compost
Since it is the rotted sawdust that is of the greatest interest, it is more reasonable to punch some of the sawdust. It is best to mix them with manure and poultry droppings (for 1 m² of sawdust, 100 kg of manure and 10 kg of poultry droppings), and then let them lie down for a year, moisturizing and covering, if necessary, so that nutrients are not washed out. It is also useful to add mowed grass, hay, fallen leaves, kitchen waste, etc. to this compost. In the absence of manure, you will have to add urea to the sawdust (200 g of urea for 3 buckets of sawdust), you can replace the urea with a diluted mullein or a solution of bird droppings.
To speed up the process of rotting sawdust, before laying the compost, it is necessary to moisten them well with water, and even better - with slurry or kitchen waste. In addition, it is useful to add soil to the sawdust: two or three buckets for one cubic meter of sawdust. In such compost, earthworms and microorganisms will rapidly multiply, accelerating the process of wood decay.
If sawdust was stored near abandoned tracts overgrown with weeds, they must also be composted first. Moreover, the compost heap must warm up to at least + 60 ° C - only in this case, the weed seeds, which can remain viable for up to 10 years, will die. You can achieve such heating of the heap by watering sawdust with hot water, followed by a quick cover of it with plastic wrap.
Sawdust on strawberry ridges
Sawdust will also be useful when mulching strawberry beds - they will not allow the berries to touch the ground, and this will reduce the loss of fruits from gray rot.
And when applied in autumn (a very thick layer is required), sawdust will also protect the strawberry plantings from winter freezing, and next year they will not allow many weeds to germinate. True, when mulching strawberries, fresh sawdust is needed, pre-treated with urea, and preferably from conifers. Indeed, in this case, they will to some extent begin to scare away the weevil.
Sawdust when forming ridges in low places
Sawdust will also help raise ridges in low places. In this case, wide (30-40 cm) furrows are dug around the proposed ridge to a depth of 20-25 cm. The soil removed from the furrows is laid on the garden bed. Sawdust is poured into the formed trenches around the beds. This is beneficial for a number of reasons. First, after any rain, you can walk to the garden bed in slippers. Secondly, by filling the furrows, you thereby prevent the drying of the bed (especially its edges). Thirdly, the sawdust will prevent weeds from germinating. Fourthly, in the future, rotted sawdust will become an excellent fertilizer - when they are transferred to the garden bed, the earth will become not only lush, but also warmer and more fertile.
Sawdust on high ridges
In tall beds, formed on a thick layer of organic matter with the addition of a small amount of soil, vegetables, flowers and other garden plants grow well. You can also form such a multi-layer bed using sawdust. First, remove the top fertile soil layer and set it aside. Lay a layer of grass (hay, straw, etc.) in the resulting trench 1 m wide and 3-5 m long (the length depends on desire), pour a layer of sawdust flavored with urea.
Then lay another layer of organic debris, such as leaves, and cover the entire structure with previously laid down earth on top. And so that the earth does not crumble along the edges of the ridge, build a kind of barrier around it from mowed grass, straw or layers of turf (it must be put with the roots out). Keep in mind that plants on such a ridge require more water, so it is also a good idea to cover the sides of the ridge with foil to reduce evaporation.
Sawdust as a substrate for seed germination
There are two technologies for sowing seeds for seedlings: directly into the soil or into stale sawdust. Sawdust is an ideal soil for a short period of time, because they represent a very loose substrate that ensures intensive development of the root system, on the one hand, and guarantee absolutely painless plant transplantation, on the other. True, we are talking about a short period, because sawdust does not contain nutrients in a form accessible to plants, and therefore plants on them can develop only as long as they have enough nutrition from seeds - that is, approximately until the first true leaf appears.
Sowing technology in sawdust is as follows. A flat, shallow container filled with wet sawdust is taken. Seeds are sown into it at some distance from each other and again they are sprinkled with sawdust - the last operation for many seeds need not be done, because in the light, the germination of seeds increases. True, in the absence of the upper layer of sawdust, the danger of drying out the seeds increases, and if you are not able to check their condition several times a day, then it is better not to refuse the upper layer.
The containers are placed in slightly opened plastic bags in a warm place (for example, on a radiator, if it is not too hot there). During the germination period for many seeds, in particular, nightshade crops, it is desirable to maintain a temperature of about 25 ... 30 ° C. With the emergence of seedlings, the temperature is reduced: in the daytime to 18 ... 26 ° C, and at night to 14 ... 16 ° C, but the given temperature data, of course, differ for different plants.
After sprouting, the bags are removed, the sawdust is sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil about 0.5 cm, and the containers are moved under fluorescent lamps. When the first true leaf appears, the plants are seated in separate containers.
Sawdust for an early harvest of potatoes
If you dream of getting an early harvest of potatoes, then sawdust will come to the rescue. Get enough light-sprouted early potato tubers, a few boxes and stale, moist sawdust. Two weeks before planting the tubers in the garden, fill the boxes 8-10 cm thick with sawdust, place the tubers upside down in the boxes and cover them with a 2-3 cm thick layer of the same substrate.
Make sure that the substrate, on the one hand, does not dry out, and on the other, does not become overmoistened. Provide him with a temperature not higher than 20 ° C. When the sprouts are 6-8 cm high, pour them abundantly with a solution of complex mineral fertilizers and plant them together with the soil in prepared holes, filling both the tubers and sprouts with earth. Before this, the soil must be preheated, covered in advance with plastic wrap, and after planting, cover the entire potato area with straw or hay, and then with the same plastic wrap so that the tubers do not freeze. As a result, you will speed up your potato harvest by several weeks.
Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg
Sawdust in greenhouses and greenhouses
For greenhouses, wood waste is used in a mixture with manure or other organic matter to warm the soil. You need to cook the beds in the greenhouse like this:
- After harvesting, lay out the tops and plant remains on the ridges.
- In the spring, put a sawdust-manure mixture with limestone flour on top, mix the substrate with a rake, cover it with hay on top and sprinkle with soil mixed with mineral dressings and ash. Spill with boiling water and cover with foil.
Sawdust is indispensable for the garden, not only as a fertilizer, but also as a mulch that makes up composts, nutrient substrates and protection from frost during wintering. A competent approach to the use of sawdust will help to fulfill the most daring expectations regarding the harvest.
The use of sawdust at their summer cottage
The use of sawdust at their summer cottage
The use of sawdust in a summer cottage is a rather topical issue. More and more summer residents agree that it is advisable to use sawdust on the site. You just need to know how to do it correctly. Currently, in various sources you can find a huge variety of articles, the authors of which talk about the benefits or dangers of using sawdust at their summer cottage.
Today sawdust is relatively inexpensive and very affordable for many materialsso that's all more gardeners use them at their summer cottage as organic fertilizer.
Despite the availability of this type of fertilizer, experienced gardeners still advise to use it carefully to enrich the soil or mulch material... The fact is that only rotted sawdust, as a last resort, half rotted... It is very difficult to obtain such material in the open air, and this process is very long and can take about ten years.
A good way to get rotted sawdust is to add fresh sawdust to compost pits or greenhouse beds., after mixing them with manure. If you carry out additional enrichment of such sawdust with nitrogen fertilizers, you will get an excellent mulching material. It is also recommended to carry out additional liming the soil before applying a large amount of sawdust, since the use of sawdust can lead to an increase in acidity in the treated area.
It is better to use sawdust as a mulching material in early summer.During this time, moisture evaporates quickly enough. With regular loosening, sawdust will mix with the soil, saturating the root system of plants growing in the treated area. By the second half of the summer season, precipitation usually increases, so the use of sawdust at this time is highly undesirable, since they will only contribute to the accumulation of excess moisture. This can negatively affect the development of young shoots in fruit shrubs.
Before the onset of the autumn cold it is recommended to dig up or well loosen areas mulched with sawdustso that in the spring they do not interfere with the melting of snow.
As of mulching material sawdust can be used when processing the near-stem circles of fruit shrubs and treesand also on some vegetable beds... In this case, it is possible to use fresh sawdust, provided that they have undergone special treatment, otherwise the plants will lose the necessary nitrogen for their favorable, which will absorb fresh mulching material from the soil.
To make fresh sawdust usable it is necessary: take about three buckets of sawdust and mix them with a glass of urea (urea), then pour the resulting mixture with ten liters of water. Then repeat everything several times in the same sequence. For convenience, it is better to sprinkle sawdust on a flat surface, previously covered with a film. After all the sawdust is mixed, they must be sealed with a second piece of film, additionally pressing it with a load. After a couple of weeks, the mulching material will be ready to use.
Fresh sawdust can also be used for sprinkling paths in the garden or vegetable garden, but first they must be mixed with urea (1 bucket of sawdust and a glass of urea) and any alkali, for example, with slaked lime. Mix everything thoroughly and cover the tracks with a layer of about 10 centimeters. It is recommended to sprinkle the paths with a mixture of sawdust at the beginning of the summer cottage season - in the spring. During the summer, the sawdust is saturated with moisture after the rains and partially rotted. In the fall, before digging, the sawdust paths are again sprinkled with lime. Thus, you will kill two birds with one stone: improve the paths and fertilize the land and on the site itself. If you are not going to be engaged in digging paths, then in the spring of next year add the prepared sawdust on top of last year's, bringing the sawdust layer to the required thickness.
With rotted sawdust, the situation is much simpler. They will just need to be scattered on the paths and enjoy after the frequency of the rows.
Garden paths strewn with sawdust significantly outperform their earthly counterparts. On such paths, weeds grow much less, if they do, then they are rather large individuals that can be easily pulled out or dug up. And the condition of the garden paths after the rainfall is also much better, you will calmly walk along them after the rain and not collect pieces of wet earth on your shoes. Another plus is that the paths sprinkled with sawdust retain moisture, which will be useful to plants during dry periods.
Sawdust is also excellent for use in closed ground when forming beds in greenhouses and greenhouses... Mixing sawdust with manure or compost increases the air permeability and looseness of the nutrient substrate.
The addition of sawdust to compost pits also has a beneficial effect on the quality of the organic fertilizer obtained from such mixing. Compost mixed with sawdust is a favorable environment for the development of beneficial trace elements and earthworms necessary to improve the quality of the soil.
Sawdust can also be used when forming vegetable beds. In low-lying places of the summer cottage, sawdust will help not only to slightly raise the bed, but also protect it from excessive evaporation of moisture and weeds, and also serve as an excellent fertilizer after the process of their decay is completed. When forming tall beds, a kind of pillow of organic fertilizers mixed with sawdust and a small amount of garden soil will serve as a good nutrient substrate for growing various vegetable crops.
Some gardeners use stale sawdust to germinate seeds of various plants or potato tubers... Of course, the use of sawdust in a summer cottage does not exclude the use of other auxiliary means to increase soil fertility or protect plants in winter or drought. On the contrary, this material will be an excellent addition to previously used agricultural techniques and will allow you to get a high-quality harvest and improve the quality of the soil.
Mulching with sawdust and shavings
- fruit trees
- bulbous flowers
- winter garden crops.
The use of wood chips as a covering material has its pros and cons.
- the ability to retain water in the soil
- a significant reduction in the amount of weeds in the beds and in between
- the ability to prevent overheating and freezing of the soil
- ensuring good air permeability of the soil
- cheap fertilizer.
- soil acidification
- decrease in the content of nutrients in the earth
- A significant waste of time in the maturation of the mulching material.
Preparation of mulch from wood chips: mix sawdust with 200 grams of urea, pour 10 liters of water, cover with foil. After 20 days, add to the ground or peat. The material is ready to use.
Properties and characteristics of natural wood sawdust
Fresh sawdust contains a number of chemical elements:
- up to 50% carbon
- about 45% oxygen
- 4.4 to 4.9% hydrogen
- 0.1% nitrogen.
1 m3 of sawdust, on average, contains up to:
- 0.15 kg potassium
- 0.25 kg calcium
- 0.02 kg nitrogen
- 0.03 kg of phosphorus.
The competent use of sawdust in the garden will increase the level of elements necessary for the growth and nutrition of plants in the soil.
The use of sawdust allows:
- Make the soil looser and more breathable.
- Refuse additional loosening due to the absence of a soil crust.
- Significantly reduce the amount of weed in the beds.
- Preserve precious moisture in the soil.
The use of sawdust without additional processing is allowed only for covering row spacings, near-trunk circles and soil areas free of vegetation. Layer thickness 6-8 cm.
Based on the foregoing, the most common use of sawdust is for loosening the soil. When it gets into the ground, wood waste with the help of soil microflora begins to actively decompose.
This leads to a number of problems:
- In the process of decomposition of hemicellulose, there is a significant decrease in the level of nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil.
- coniferous saws in their composition contain a large amount of resinous substances that slow down the development of most plants.
To solve the first problem, the impregnation of sawdust with mineral fertilizers, and specifically with a solution of urea, will help.
Do not use softwood shavings as mulch and fertilizer.
When using wood waste in the garden and in the garden, most owners of summer cottages are interested in whether sawdust acidifies the soil? The answer is yes, they acidify and very noticeably. If this material is used improperly, be prepared for the fact that on your land plot the yields of vegetable, fruit and ornamental crops will significantly decrease.
This problem is relatively easy to solve. So how to deoxidize sawdust? Before use, it is necessary to soak the shavings with an alkaline solution, for example, sodium nitrate. As a deoxidizer, you can use superphosphate, regular chalk, lime, ash or dolomite flour.
It is important to understand that the introduction of sawdust into the soil before winter will not give positive results, except for improving its structure, without additional processing of the material with specialized nitrogen EM-preparations, which will accelerate the overheating of the sawdust and neutralize the negative effect on the soil.
Can sawdust be added to the soil?
Sawdust is an excellent soil loosener. Thanks to them, the soil becomes much lighter, air and water permeable. Plant rhizomes begin to receive the required amount of oxygen, moisture and nutrients. This will certainly affect their growth, development and fruiting.
However, the controversy around sawdust does not subside: some gardeners are sure of their benefits, others see one harm.
The benefits of sawdust:
- Serve as an integral component of organic complexes.
- They have excellent heat dissipation.
- Retain moisture.
- Improves soil structure.
- Does not contain weed seeds.
- They are able to scare away harmful insects.
One of the interesting advantages of sawdust is the ability to scare away the main enemy of all gardeners without exception - the Colorado potato beetle. This pest cannot stand a fresh resinous spirit. Pine shavings are especially hateful to him.
When planting potatoes, the aisles are sprinkled with sawdust. It is pine. To enhance the effect, this should be done at least 3 times over the summer.
The most valuable organic raw material does not allow the crop to dry out and overheat, which has a positive effect on the formation of tubers and the yield in general.
- When applied fresh, nitrogen is pulled out of the soil, which significantly impoverishes it.
- If you dump the sawdust, combining them with manure, into a heap and forget to mix, soon a fungus will start there.
- Wood shavings contain not only useful substances, but also resins harmful to some plants.
- Not suitable for dry climates.
- Fresh raw materials can lead to soil acidification.
How to use sawdust in the garden and vegetable garden (three uses)
Many are afraid to use sawdust, because many years ago there was a "rumor" in all garden magazines that they "draw nitrogen from the soil."
Even then, 40 years ago, I liked this expression "pull out nitrogen" :)) I just tried to imagine it then ... Like ... There was nitrogen in the soil (at different depths in the fertile layer), and suddenly sawdust got into the soil. Oh, what will happen now ?!
What is sawdust? And this is organic matter, wood, which is very finely "cut". So what? Suppose that Azot (I will write with a capital letter), pushing everything in its path on the sides, rushed towards the sawdust, which somehow attracted him. And ... And disintegrated / dissolved / disappeared / disappeared / disappeared / flew away.
And there is still poor soil on which nothing grows? So what? Are there chemists among my readers? After all, I fully admit that nitrogen is required for the decomposition of sawdust, but not in the same amount to refuse them?
And I must honestly admit that all these fears were partially passed on to me. Therefore, I used to mix sawdust with a solution of urea or nitrate. She poured half a bucket of water, poured a tablespoon of saltpeter into it and filled the bucket with sawdust. But it turned out to be such a hassle :)))
Now I make everything much easier.
Firstly, I boldly sprinkle sawdust between the beds so that weeds do not grow. In a thick layer.
Secondly, I scatter sawdust around raspberries every spring and fall. Without any nitrogen. With one "but". Inside the rows of raspberries (between the bushes) I sprinkle a decent amount of compost every fall.
Thirdly, I use sawdust in strawberries and strawberries.
I dig the garden bed, then level it with a rake and cover it with a layer of mown grass.
In the fall, my grass is already dry in places and a little with leaves beginning to fall off under the apple trees and pears. If there is no grass, then a layer of fallen leaves can be used.
And then I sprinkle sawdust on top. There is about a bucket of sawdust for every meter of the bed.
And so I leave the garden until it's time to plant strawberries or strawberries. These berries love slightly acidic soil, so sawdust is quite appropriate here.
If you are interested, read how I then plant berries here: “How to shorten the time for planting strawberries or strawberries?«.
And read about how I use sawdust between the beds: “How to make a track from ... newspapers?«.
I would be very glad if you liked the article and you put like, or share the article with your friends. Thanks in advance.
Subscribe to my blog, to read other interesting articles that are no longer shown in the feed.
I wish you a good autumn, health and good! A source.