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Learning to grow a spruce from a cutting

 Learning to grow a spruce from a cutting


In modern landscape design, a special place is occupied by the decoration of garden plots with conifers, including spruces. It is also popular to grow trees for commercial purposes (for example, to be sold for the New Year). The simplest and most effective way to propagate these trees is considered to be cuttings. Growing spruce from a branch has its own characteristics and rules that should be followed.

Is it possible to grow a spruce from a branch on your own

Fir trees grow well enough not only in their natural environment, but also in a garden or a personal plot, in an open area. It is very important to find the most suitable location. The main requirement for it is shade: direct sunlight is undesirable for small spruce trees.

Ate of different types, like other conifers, will decorate your garden plot

To grow a seedling, the stalk must be placed in a mixture of equal parts of peat, perlite and sand. To transplant to a permanent place in the planting hole, pour in layers from bottom to top:

  • 5 cm drainage from pebbles, expanded clay or ceramic cuttings;
  • 10 cm of soil mixed with humus in a 1: 1 ratio or ready-made substrate purchased from a store;
  • 5 cm of sand.

This will provide the young root system with good conditions for development, and the spruce in your garden will grow healthy and strong.

If it is not possible to prepare the soil yourself, you can use a store-bought mixture.

Coniferous soil contains both high-moor and low-moor peat

Growing spruce by cuttings

To get a good result, you need to follow certain rules, starting with the choice of a branch for the cutting and ending with the fight against possible diseases and pests.

Choosing the right stalk

Experts say that the best time to collect branches for cuttings is mid-spring. In the last days of March, the buds begin to swell, the vegetation of the plant is activated, and this period lasts until the end of May.

There is an opinion that cuttings from an adult tree can be taken in the fall, before the first frosts come. However, experience shows that podzimny sprouts take root and adapt much worse. First of all, this concerns rooting: if in spring cuttings it takes 4–5 months, then in autumn it stretches for 9 months. Out of 10 subwinter branches, only 3 survived to rooting, and out of the same number of spring branches - 9.

It is better to collect branches from an adult spruce in the morning, until the sun has entered its zenith. The dew that has not yet dried up promotes rooting and growth.

The best materials for cuttings are considered to be shoots from the middle part or top of the spruce crown at the age of 5-10 years. The length of the branch should be 15-30 cm, at the base you need to leave a piece of bark from the trunk, the so-called tree heel (after cutting, shorten it a little and give it a rounded shape). It is important to know that the color of the shoot should be yellowish, and brown at the base.

The length of the spruce cuttings for planting should be 15-30 cm

Preparation for rooting

Before planting, the cuttings must be properly prepared. For this:

  1. The lower part, up to a height of about 5 cm, clean the processes and needles.
  2. Place the whole branches in a weak sugar solution (50 g per 1 L of water) and leave for a day: this will accelerate growth.

    For better rooting, spruce cuttings are placed in a sugar solution

  3. After that, moisten the bases with another agent that strengthens and accelerates growth (this can be succinic acid, Kornevin or potassium humate).

Planting cuttings and cultivation features

Now you can proceed directly to planting. Procedure:

  1. Plant the prepared shoots in the ground, deepening the base by 3-5 cm. Note that cuttings of conifers are planted at an angle of about 30 °. If you are planting several branches in one container, keep the distance between them at least 10 cm.

    Spruce cuttings are planted in the ground at a slight angle

  2. Squeeze the soil lightly around the cutting, water it and mulch the soil. For this, straw, branches, wood shavings or rotted manure are useful. Leave the soil without mulch at the base of the seedlings to prevent rotting.
  3. Secure the top with a film that will give the seedlings a greenhouse effect. The height of the pavement should be 35 cm above the ground. Raise the film for 15 minutes daily to ventilate the plantings. After 3-4 months, the film will need to be removed. When growing cuttings in a greenhouse in hot weather, also ventilate the room for 15 minutes.
  4. Spruce cuttings need moisture. Spray them regularly with a spray bottle. Watering the seedlings is necessary only during extreme heat. Usually it is enough to moisten the soil a little, but it is important to make sure that the soil does not dry out.

Video: varieties and types of spruce suitable for growing in garden plots

Spruce will become a real decoration of your garden, filling it with the scent of pine needles. As you can see, it is not difficult to grow it from a cutting. You only need a little attention and patience. Good luck!

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Growing spruce from a branch

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Young spruce care

Types and varieties of spruce

Application and benefits

Many land owners dream of growing a fluffy and beautiful spruce. You can even decorate the site beautifully by growing a whole alley of fir trees. This is not an easy task, it requires adherence to certain rules, as well as patience and time.


How to cut conifers at home?

If you want to achieve the effect, take cuttings of juniper, thuja or cypress. Tear off a stalk with a "heel" (a piece of wood with bark) from the main branch or from even side shoots. If there are coniferous needles, they must be cut off with a sharpened knife, and the "heel" itself should not be too long. After you have prepared 5-7 cuttings, we collect them in a bouquet, carefully bandage them so that they do not disintegrate, and soak them for 12 hours in a solution such as Epin.

For maximum effect, take a few drops per 100 ml of water. When the cuttings have spent the right time in the solution, it is necessary to powder them in a rooting stimulator. The most practical and reliable is considered Kornevin. After that, we fill the container for planting with sand, watered with a solution of potassium permanganate, which will help rid it of possible bacteria and pests. We make holes in the sand, using wooden pegs for this - they need to be installed at an angle of 45-50 degrees.

The cuttings should be planted at a distance of about 5 cm from each other, we squeeze them with sand so that there are no holes and voids, and then we cover the container with a plastic bag or a transparent cap. You need to keep such a box with young seedlings in a dark place, alternately moisturizing and airing it. Literally in a year, the plant will become stronger, which means that it can already be planted in the ground.


Preparatory work

Mother spruces, from which cuttings are taken, should be between 4 and 20 years old, then you can count on good rooting. Older plants after 30 years will also give results, but more modest.

Preparation for cuttings is carried out in several stages, in which the basic requirements must be strictly observed.

  • To ensure you get quality twigs, it is advisable to use trees no older than 10 years. An additional condition is that you need to cut a spruce grown from seeds.
  • It is better not to cut the rooting material, but to break it off with gloved hands - this way the cutting loses less resin, and therefore less nutrients.
  • You need to choose annual branches with a piece of bark, located horizontally. The necessary "heel" does not allow the resin to flow out, prevents the plant from rotting, which occurs due to the overlap of sap flow.
  • Quality material is considered from the sides of the tree, its middle part or crown. A healthy shoot is yellowish, brown at the base.
  • Cuttings are cut 6-10 cm long, it is advisable to plant them immediately. During transportation, the planting material is wrapped in a damp cloth.
  • Experienced gardeners advise not to cut the spruce during the hot time of the day, but to do it early in the morning, when there is still dew on the branches, which will contribute to the rapid development of roots.

It is believed that it is best to harvest cuttings in spring - from late March to mid-May. At this time, there is an active vegetation process and swelling of the buds, in which the scales move apart and a green conical part appears.

With the right choice of time for planting, it is possible to get developed roots about 20 cm long in 2.5 months.

If you harvest the branches in the summer, then they are unlikely to have time to start up the root processes, but an influx will form on the handle, from which the root system will later develop. To speed up the process, it is recommended to use growth stimulants. Cut sections are treated with Kornevin or soaked in Heteroauxin solution. The cuttings, harvested earlier, will give roots in previously settled water, if you hold it in it for several hours.

Despite the fact that it is possible to propagate spruce with twigs in the fall before the first frost, this should not be done, since the adaptation of winter seedlings is difficult. This process lasts 8-9 months, while in the spring it is 4-5 months maximum. In addition, a third of all sprouts die, in contrast to spring ones, which almost all take root.


Propagation of coniferous cuttings

Yew, juniper and especially thuja are good cuttings in early summer. Shoots are suitable for cuttings, green at the top and lignified at the bottom.

Conifers from cuttings sometimes work out well, and sometimes grow crooked and weak. The trick is to get the cuttings right. Try to choose young plants for the role of mother plants with an even symmetrical crown, which retains its density to the very ground. If there are no other options, you can use old specimens, but in any case, take cuttings from the upper part of the crown - this way you will have a better chance of getting planting material with characteristics typical of the variety.


Plants obtained from cuttings from old lateral branches often behave like lateral branches throughout their life: they bend, unevenly overgrow with young branches and do not have a spectacular appearance.

Yew, juniper and especially thuja are good cuttings in early summer. Shoots that are green at the top and lignified at the bottom are suitable for cuttings.

Conifers from cuttings sometimes work out well, and sometimes grow crooked and weak. The trick is to get the cuttings right. Try to choose young plants for the role of mother plants with an even symmetrical crown, which retains its density to the very ground. If there are no other options, you can use old specimens, but in any case, take cuttings from the upper part of the crown - this way you will have a better chance of getting planting material with characteristics typical of the variety.


Plants obtained from cuttings from old lateral branches often behave like lateral branches throughout their life: they bend, unevenly overgrow with young branches and do not have a spectacular appearance.

Usually, the first roots on coniferous cuttings appear by the end of the season, and on some only after winter freezing. In the fall, the container will need to be dug in, for example, in a greenhouse, and do not forget to shade the plantings in the spring if they are in the sun. In late spring, transplant rooted cuttings for growing. To determine if roots have appeared, just carefully remove the cutting from the sand - there is nothing to worry about.


Features of transplanting pine and spruce

If pine or spruce seedlings are transferred to a light area from a dark forest, they must be temporarily shaded so that they do not burn in the spring sun. For this, a cap is perfect, which can be sewn from large bags in which flour or sugar is kept. Also, for transplanting pine seedlings in the fall, you need to choose specimens from 30 to 40 centimeters in height, although larger seedlings (about a meter) will also take root.

To preserve the pine's main taproot without cutting it off when digging up, it is best to choose small seedlings for transplanting. To slow down the growth of a pine tree and regulate its height, this root can be tied with a weak knot before planting, and the top of the tree can be formed in the form of a round ball. This is done every spring - the green growths at the ends of the branches need to be broken out so that the branches fluff to the sides. This pine tree looks very nice and decorative.

In addition, when transplanting pines and spruces, two-year-old seedlings should be planted, since three-year-olds take root rather poorly. They need to be dug out in early spring with a large clod of earth, trying not to expose the roots.


Growing conifers from cuttings in the ground

When preparing the beds for planting, you need to remember that the ground level should be made 15 cm lower from the edges of the formwork. This is necessary to maintain normal humidity and temperature for the development and growth of cuttings. We also carefully break off a small escape from the "parent", which forms the "heel". With a sharp knife, cut off the tip of the wood on it. During these works, a wound is obtained that stimulates the rooting of cuttings in the future.... That is why it must be moistened with a growth regulator (1% indolylbutyric acid solution).

In the lower part, remove all the leaves using a knife. But touching the growth point at the very top is undesirable. Next, we are preparing a place for planting seedlings. To do this, we take a wooden peg and stick it into the ground to a depth of 3 cm. The ground near the stem is strongly compacted. The next cuttings should be planted at a distance of about five centimeters. We water the bed itself with a fungicide solution and cover it with a film. Our plant should develop in this way for about one year, and in winter, in order to avoid freezing, it must be covered with mats or wooden shields.


Watch the video: How to grow Spruce - Gardening 101 by Dr. Greenthumb