Buzulnik: growing from seeds, planting and care in the open field
If your garden has a pond, we recommend that you plant a buzulnik around it. This tall ornamental perennial can beautify both wet and shady areas.
The high decorativeness of the buzulnik allows you to create beautiful compositions in the garden not only in combination with other garden crops, but also from different varieties of the buzulnik alone.
In addition, a species such as gray buzulnik has healing properties, and this is another reason to sow it in the garden.
In our article, you will learn:
- what types of plants exist;
- how to grow a buzulnik from seeds;
- how to care for him;
- how to propagate;
- how to cover a buzulnik for the winter.
Planting and caring for a buzulnik
- Landing: sowing seeds in the ground - in spring or in November-December. Sowing seeds for seedlings - from January to March (specific dates depend on the species and variety), planting seedlings in the ground - from mid-May to early June.
- Bloom: from mid-summer to early autumn.
- Lighting: shade, partial shade, although it can be planted in full sun.
- The soil: moist, fertile, composition does not matter.
- Watering: regular, more frequent in dry seasons, frequent and abundant when grown in the sun.
- Top dressing: from late spring to the beginning of flowering with mullein infusion (1 part mullein to 10 parts water). In the fall, half a bucket of humus is introduced into the soil of the trunk circle.
- Cropping: before freezing, the ground part is cut off at the root.
- Reproduction: seeds and dividing the bush.
- Pests: slugs.
- Diseases: powdery mildew.
Read more about growing a buzulnik below.
Flower buzulnik, or ligularia (lat.Ligularia) belongs to the genus of herbaceous perennials of the family Astrovye, or Compositae, which has more than one hundred and fifty species. The Latin name ligularia (ligularia), translated as "tongue", indicates the shape of the marginal flowers of the buzulnik. In nature, buzulnik flowers are found in Asia and Europe. They have gained popularity in garden culture literally recently, displacing the favorites that have long settled in our gardens - phlox and peonies, because, firstly, they grow well in the shade, and secondly, their flowering lasts at least two months, in- third, in one place they can grow for many years.
The buzulnik plant grows up to 120 cm, on its straight stems - large, up to 60 cm in diameter, heart-shaped or triangular leaves of green, greenish-purple or red-brown color on long petioles. In some species, the upper side of the leaf plate is violet-green, and the lower one is purple. Sometimes only the veins and leaf petioles have a reddish or purple tint, and the leaf plates themselves are monotonous green. The inflorescences-baskets have a diameter of about 10 cm, their numerous tubular flowers are inconspicuous, but the marginal ones are of bright yellow, orange and reddish shades. Baskets, in turn, form racemose, spike-shaped, corymbose paniculate inflorescences. Peduncles sometimes reach 2 m in height. Flowers in inflorescences bloom from lower to upper from mid-June and bloom until mid-August and longer. Buzulnik fruit is a crested achene.
Planting a buzulnik
How to sow seeds
Buzulnik propagates by seeds and dividing the bush. Buzulnik seeds are planted in the spring directly into the soil to a depth of one centimeter. The soil before the emergence of shoots should be moist all the time, and the shoots that have appeared from noon to the evening should be shaded from direct sunlight. But it is better to sow freshly harvested buzulnik seeds in November-December, then they undergo natural stratification during the winter.
If you are interested in the seedling method of seed reproduction, then you need to sow buzulnik for seedlings from January to March (depending on the beginning of flowering of the species or variety), and plant in open ground in May, when the last frosts have passed. But in the place of those who have not yet grown this plant, I would not wonder how to grow a buzulnik from seeds, because a buzulnik reproduces well by self-sowing, if the seeds have time to ripen and wake up on the ground. However, it is worth knowing that the buzulnik blooms from seeds only in the fourth, or even in the fifth year.
Transplanting and dividing the bush
Buzulnik grows in one place for up to two decades, but at least once every five years it is necessary to divide and transplant a plant, the roots of which begin to protrude from the ground. It is best to do this in the spring, at the very beginning of active growth, when young leaves are just appearing in the buzulnik - at this time the engraftment process is easier.
Don't dig up the entire bush, just cut off a piece of the plant with a shovel and dig it up. Fill the hole left after digging with fertile soil and water the mother plant. Rinse the cut off part in water and cut it into divisions with a sharp knife so that at least one kidney ready for growth remains on each. Process the sections with potassium permanganate or crushed coal. The planting of the parcels is carried out in prepared pits 40x40 cm in size, located at least a meter and a half from each other, into which one and a half buckets of humus, a little ash and superphosphate must be added in advance
If you do everything correctly, the planted parts of the buzulnik bush will acquire decorativeness the next year.
Force majeure landing of Buzulnik
If it so happens that you got a buzulnik seedling in the summer, in a blooming state, be sure to cut off the peduncle, remove a third of the leaves, starting from the bottom of the seedling, plant it as described above, be sure to shade it from the sun's rays and keep the soil slightly moist all the time condition. An untimely transplant will require a lot of energy from the plant, so be patient - the buzulnik will take root for about a month.
Buzulnik is planted in a shady area with fertile moist soil rich in humus, best of all - along the shore of a reservoir, even if artificial. In the spring, when the active growth of the buzulnik begins, it is advisable to loosen the soil on the site and mulch it. In the summer, cultivation of a buzulnik involves regular watering in dry season and a garter of inflorescences, if necessary. The more sunlight hits the plant, the more often it will have to be watered.
Buzulnik is fertilized with mullein infusion at the rate of 1:10 from late spring to July. Good results are obtained by applying humus to the soil in the fall - half a bucket under a bush, only you should avoid getting fertilizer directly on the roots.
Pests and diseases
Buzulnik is a plant that is not susceptible to diseases, and insects shun it. True, in spring, young leaves of a plant can eat slugs, but if you scatter granular superphosphate under the bushes, this will not happen. Sometimes there is a disease of the buzulnik with powdery mildew - a fungal disease, which is eliminated by spraying the plant with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur or a solution of potassium permanganate (10 liters 2.5 g).
Buzulnik after flowering
How and when to collect seeds
If you want to collect buzulnik seeds, tie a few inflorescences with gauze at the end of flowering so that the seeds do not spill to the ground after ripening, and cut off the rest of the flower stalks. This measure stimulates the growth of leaves and an increase in their size, and also prevents spontaneous self-seeding. In autumn, when the leaves begin to change color, the buzulnik becomes a real decoration of the garden - until mid-October. When the inflorescences in gauze bags are completely dry, cut them off, bring them into the house, shake out the seeds from them, peel off the remnants of flowers and wind.
If you want to sow buzulnik before winter, just spread the seeds on paper and wait for the time to sow. If you are sowing seeds in the spring, dry them on paper and put them in a box or paper bag.
Buzulnik in winter
With the onset of the first frosts, cut off the ground part of the bushes at the root and, just in case, mulch the site - although the buzulnik is a winter-hardy plant, severe unexpected frosts in a snowless winter can harm even such a cold-resistant plant.
Types and varieties
Most often grown in culture:
Buzulnik Przewalski (Ligularia przewalskii)
A completely unpretentious plant, often used as a scenic screen to mask unsightly areas of the garden. Height - up to one and a half meters, the inflorescences of this species are spike-shaped, the leaves are cut, resembling maple - the plant, although monumental, is elegant. Blooms in late July. Varieties:
- Rocket - two-meter tall peduncles directed upwards are covered with yellow baskets, the stems are red-brown, strong and do not need support, the leaves are almost round, heart-shaped with a sharp-edged edge, green in summer, and burgundy-crimson in autumn;
- Maple-leaved - maple-shaped leaves, larger than those of the Rocket - up to 25 cm in diameter, growing in height up to 170 cm.
Buzulnik toothed (Ligularia dentata)
A perennial of approximately one meter in height with large kidney-shaped leaves collected in a basal rosette. Baskets with a diameter of 7-8 cm are collected in panicles. Tubular flowers are light brown, ligulate - light yellow. Blooms from August, moderately winter-hardy - it is better to cover it in a harsh winter. Varieties:
- Desdemona Is a variety with bright yellow flowers and lilac-brown leaves with jagged edges. Blooms from August;
- Othello - green shiny leaves up to half a meter across, intensely burgundy on the underside of the plate, tangerine-orange flowers are collected in inflorescences up to 13 cm in diameter;
- Osiris Fantasy - dwarf variety no higher than 50 cm with dark green leaves on the upper side of the plate and burgundy underside. Blooms in July.
Of interest to florists are also:
Buzulnik Kempfer (Ligularia kaempferi)
Japanese species with straight, slightly branched stems, basal large kidney-shaped leaves on long pubescent petioles, almost round, green, unevenly toothed, up to 25 cm in diameter.Numerous light yellow flower baskets, reaching a diameter of 5 cm, are collected in erect corymbose inflorescences on branched peduncles. Blooms in July. Requires mulching for the winter. There is an early flowering variety with golden flowers and bright green rounded-angular leaves with golden specks.
Buzulnik large-leaved (Ligularia macrophylla)
In the wild, it grows in the Far East and Central Asia. The lower basal elliptical leaves of a bluish tint on long petioles reach a length of 30-45 cm. Numerous baskets of yellow flowers are collected in a racemose panicle. Peduncles up to one and a half meters high. In winter, it does without shelter.
Wilson Buzulnik (Ligularia wilsoniana)
One and a half meter plant with straight, slightly branched stems, large reniform basal leaves on long petioles, numerous yellow baskets up to 2.5 cm in diameter, making up erect inflorescences. Blooms in July, winter-hardy, but shelter is desirable.
Siberian Buzulnik (Ligularia sibirica)
Rhizome perennial with a height of 30 to 130 cm, grooved stems, rosette leaves, elongated heart-shaped, sometimes triangular-heart-shaped or reniform, racemose inflorescence, consisting of yellow baskets.
Narrow-leaved Buzulnik (Ligularia stenocephala)
A species similar to Przewalski's buzulnik, only with larger flowers and sharply serrated heart-shaped leaves.
Fisher's Buzulnik (Ligularia fischeri)
Perennial from 30 to 150 cm in height with a shortened rhizome, straight furrowed stems, rosette heart-shaped, sometimes spear-shaped leaves 12 to 23 cm long and 10 to 25 cm wide, rounded or pointed at the top, on long thin petioles. Bright yellow flowers in carpal inflorescences of 2-4 baskets 2.5-4 cm in diameter. Blooms in late June.
Buzulnik Hessei (Ligularia x hessei)
A hybrid of Wilson and toothed buzulnik, more like a toothed buzulnik - baskets in a large shield, only the inflorescence is looser. The flower baskets are similar to chamomile up to 5 cm in diameter, the leaves are heart-triangular, the bush reaches a height of two meters and one meter in diameter. Blooms in late summer.
Buzulnik Tangut (Ligularia tangutica)
He is also a Tangut Ragwort - a spectacular buzulnik with a tuberous root that forms stolons, which make it easy to use the vegetative method of reproduction, since this species almost does not give self-seeding. Small-branched stems 70-90 cm high, laced deeply dissected-pinnate leaves, elongated inflorescences of small yellow flowers. Blooms in July-August.
Buzulnik Vicha (Ligularia veitchiana)
Perennial up to two meters tall and heart-shaped leaves up to 40 cm in length. A large number of yellow baskets are collected in a spike-shaped inflorescence. Blooms in August. Winter-hardy, but shelter is desirable for the winter.
Buzulnik palchatolobastny, or palm-shaped (Ligularia x palmatiloba)
It grows up to 1 m 80 cm in height and up to a meter in diameter. The lower leaves are large, rounded with deep lobes. The yellow baskets of flowers are collected in loose clusters. Flowering begins in July-August.
Buzulnik Vorobiev (Ligularia vorobievii)
Vigorous bushes up to 120 cm in diameter and up to 2 m in height with rounded leathery dense leaves of dark green color and large baskets in racemose inflorescences. Flowering begins in August.
All these species grow beautifully and for a long time in culture.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Asteraceae
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Information about Garden Plants
- Information on Perennial Plants
- Information about Herbaceous plants
Sections: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Flowering Compositae (Asteraceae) Plants on B
Features of kochia
Cochia is an ornamental deciduous plant that is cultivated as an annual or perennial. Her crown is fast growing. The genus is represented by both shrubs and herbaceous plants. Already in the first days of June, kochia bushes become as decorative as possible and remain so until the first frost. The average height of the bushes is about 0.6–0.8 m. They include a large number of thin stems that branch strongly along the entire length. At the base of the bush there is a lignified erect stem.
Many of those who saw the kohija for the first time in their lives believe that it is a coniferous plant. This is due to the fact that the leaf plates of such a plant are very narrow and outwardly similar to needles. The top of the stems and leaves are soft and pleasant to the touch. There is a short pubescence on the surface of the leaf blades. While the bush is young, its foliage is painted in a pale green color, but after a few months it changes to crimson or pink.
Such decorative shrubs not only have attractive foliage, they also bloom. However, the flowers are very small, so they are not particularly decorative. They grow from the axils of the apical leaf plates and are part of the panicles. If pollination occurs, then fruits will form on the bush, which are very small nuts. Each fruit contains one seed that remains viable for 2 years.
Growing in pots
The most convenient way is to buy them in the store in early spring (February - March). It is a great home decoration. All varieties (high and low) are suitable for growing in windowsill pots.
- Buy in the store.They are usually planted in tiny pots one or more at a time. They already have flower buds or developed flowers. They are easy to grow at home.
- Grow from bulbs - they are planted in pots in August and early September. Bulbs should be chosen large. Planted so that they protrude 1/4 - 1/3 above the ground.
The pots should then be placed in an unheated basement until February. Flowers are watered once a week. In February, the pots are moved into the house. Indoor daffodils at home from their own bulb are difficult to grow. It is more convenient to buy them.
Photo. Only large bulbs are suitable for potting. Remove old roots before planting.
When potted plants produce leaves and flower buds, further cultivation is very simple.
Indoor daffodils that produce leaves and flowers are best placed in a sunny place - a windowsill, a table, a closet. They also tolerate partial shade. Plants bloom in heated and unheated rooms. The flowering time is almost the same.
The plant is not transplanted straight away from the tiny pots in which they grow. They don't need it this time of year. In addition, it is easy to break them during transplantation.
- Potted daffodils require frequent watering, and potted soil tends to dry out. But it is better to water them less than more, overflow is harmful.
- Top dressing can be omitted.
- The faded pot daffodils begin to dry out. This is normal - this is how they prepare for the rest. Potted flowers that bloom at home are not suitable for growing next year on a windowsill. Their bulbs are too weak.
- Faded daffodils should be thrown away or transplanted into the garden. At first, the plants are watered less and less until the leaves are dry. While the leaves are green, you do not need to pick them off, they feed the bulbs. The bulbs are then removed from the ground. They are stored in a dry, dark place, preferably at a temperature of 15-20 degrees Celsius, before planting in the garden.
Bulbs are planted in the garden in August - early September. In the spring, the plants will bloom. In the garden, sprouts emerge in the second half of March and bloom in April.