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How to use regular valerian against cabbage pests

 How to use regular valerian against cabbage pests


Cabbage is susceptible to pest attacks at all stages of the growing season. Roots, stems and leaves are also affected. The seedlings are attacked by bugs, leaf beetles, caterpillars, slugs and other insects, due to which the plantings may die. Of course, you can save cabbage with special chemistry, but I prefer folk remedies, I especially like valerian. Dilute a vial of valerian and 1 tbsp. l. liquid soap or soap shavings in 3 liters of non-cold water. Stir and spray over the cabbage patch. Valerian will help scare off the cabbage whiteworm and night scoop. These cute-looking butterflies lay eggs on the underside of the leaf, and their larvae spoil cabbage. Caterpillars of whiteflies and scoop first live on the underside of the leaf, and when growing up move to the upper part and to the heads of cabbage. Whites and scoops eat the entire aerial part of the cabbage, except for the stump, and are able to gnaw through whole tunnels in the heads of cabbage.Valerian solution helps against cruciferous blocks - jumping pests up to 3 mm in size, and from slugs - bellied mollusks that eat juicy young leaves. Treatment should be carried out 1 time in 2 weeks, and also repeated after precipitation, regardless of the duration of the previous treatment. The smell of valerian repels pests, and the soap film improves the "stickiness" of the active ingredient. As with any problem, pest infestations are easier to prevent. Therefore, I carry out prevention when planting seedlings in open ground. For example, in order to keep slugs out of the cabbage, I sprinkle crushed eggshells over the garden bed. Slugs have thin skin and they will not crawl where they can damage it, and the shell damages the chitinous layer of the mollusk abdomen. Spunbond, as it turned out, saves seedlings not only from sunlight, but also from cruciferous fleas. This less than 1mm mesh non-woven fabric protects my plantings perfectly.Soda protects my cabbage from the larvae of the cabbage scoop. Alkaline powder eats away at the skin of the larvae, and getting into the digestive tract, leads to death. But it is not so easy to sprinkle soda on the lower part of the leaf, so I abundantly spray the plantings with a solution (100 g of soda per bucket of water), and sprinkle the soil around with powder, at the same time disinfecting it from soil fungal diseases. ... In a bucket of not cold water I dissolve 2 tbsp. shavings of soap, add a glass of tobacco dust, a glass of ash and 1 tbsp. mustard powder. I mix well and spray the plantings, paying special attention to young shoots. This procedure is useful not only for cabbage, but also for tomatoes, cucumbers, berry bushes and fruit trees. Processing should be carried out in the evening or early in the morning. Well, during the entire growing season of cabbage, I sprinkle the plants and the soil under them with ash every 2 weeks. Ash not only perfectly scares away insects, creating unbearable living conditions for them, but also enriches the soil with nitrogen, which favorably affects the growth and development of plants.

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Control methods

A prerequisite for obtaining healthy products is, first of all, the direct destruction of individual stages of pests of vegetable and green crops, as well as the creation of barriers that prevent harmful insects from entering other plants.

It is important to timely detect and destroy colonies of aphids and slugs, collect caterpillars of harmful butterflies, larvae and beetles of the Colorado potato beetle and remove plants damaged by cabbage, onion and carrot flies, catch and burn a bear. Catching with the help of mousetraps and traps, mouse-like rodents, including water rats, is also of great importance. Although all these measures are quite laborious, in some cases they allow you to completely avoid the use of chemical plant protection products.

GOOD TO KNOW

Using companion plants can help reduce pest damage. For this role, those plants are used that with their smell mask the smell of vegetable crops or even scare off pests. In addition, companion plants can be used to protect certain crops from mechanical damage.

• Erect marigolds, planted along the edge of the tomato garden, will protect them from the whitefly.

• Sunflowers, peas or beans can be a great shade on young cucumber plants.

• Legumes (peas and beans) can be planted between cabbage plants, which will benefit from the nitrogen fixing nodules on the roots of the legumes. After harvest, embed leftover legumes (not cabbage!) Into the soil as a green fertilizer. Rutabaga and turnips will also benefit from planting legume companions around the edges of the garden.

• Forage beans protect corn and potato seedlings well (including partly repelling the Colorado potato beetle).

• Celery grows well next to leeks. In addition, it scares away cabbage butterflies well from cabbage.

• Garlic grows well with lettuce and beets and also protects them from aphids.


For spraying garden and horticultural crops, you can use ready-made coniferous concentrate that is sold at a pharmacy or store. This orange powder should be diluted as follows: dissolve 2 tbsp in a standard bucket of water. spoons of insect repellent and 4 tbsp. spoons to destroy them.

If you have the opportunity to collect pine or spruce needles in the nearest forest, then you can prepare a coniferous infusion yourself, pour 1/2 kg of raw materials with a bucket of warm water, letting it brew for a week under a lid and filtering. Concentrated mother liquor is diluted 1: 7 with pure water before use.

How to properly use a coniferous infusion or a solution of coniferous concentrate

Spraying of plantings is carried out in dry, calm weather. For maximum productivity from the use of a biological agent, it is desirable that there is no rainfall in the days following the treatment.

For preventive purposes, plantings are treated with coniferous infusion in early spring. When the first signs of colonization of shrubs, trees or beds with pests appear, spraying with a concentrated solution of needles is performed. The treatments are repeated 2-3 times at weekly intervals.

What crops and when are sprayed with a coniferous insecticide

Concentrate of needles in the garden has proven itself well when processing apple trees, pears and berries (gooseberries, currants, raspberries). The first time the event is performed after the appearance of the first young leaves, then it is repeated during the budding period and before the beginning of flowering.

The undoubted benefit is spraying at the beginning of the season of plantations of garden strawberries. This allows you to minimize the harm that the strawberry-raspberry weevil causes to plantings.

Processing cabbages, radishes, turnips and mustard will rid cruciferous crops of the ubiquitous flea and cabbage beetle.

To reduce the number of the Colorado potato beetle on the site, which, in addition to potatoes, also pests eggplants, as well as tomatoes, beds of nightshade crops are sprayed with coniferous infusion during the flowering period of potatoes.

The cucumber plantation and plants in closed structures are irrigated with coniferous infusion after the seedlings have 6-8 full leaves. This helps prevent aphids from colonizing the cucumber plantings.

Before thinning the carrots, it is advisable to spray the bed with a solution of needles. The pungent aroma will scare off carrot flies that flock to the smell of their favorite culture.

Such a biological insecticide can be used by every summer resident in his area, while not fearing the accumulation of toxic substances in the future harvest and without harming the environment. See you, friends!


Pest control

There are several effective ways that are safe for plants:

  • Valerian. In order not to fight parasites, it is better to observe prophylaxis. A bottle of valerian must be diluted in 3 liters of water, add 2 liters of liquid tar soap and spray the plants with this mixture.
  • Mustard. The easiest and most effective way to fight is to sprinkle the ground around the heads of cabbage with dry mustard or pepper directly from the bag. Mustard is preferred as pepper can negatively affect the composition of the soil.
  • Tobacco dust. From mid-May to the end of June, when the seedlings are still young, you need to loosen the soil every 3-4 days. Before loosening, sprinkle a mixture of mustard powder, ash, tobacco dust, ground black or red pepper under the cabbage trunks.
  • Yarrow. If the pests are already on the cabbage itself or have climbed onto the head of cabbage, then a very concentrated infusion of yarrow will help get rid of them. In general, decoctions of many caustic plants are effective against caterpillars. However, most of them are poisonous to humans.
  • Salt. In August, in sunny and hot weather, you need to sprinkle between the rows and under the trunks a mixture of ash, tobacco dust, mustard powder, table salt and ground pepper. In the evening, sprinkle the same composition (but without table salt) on top.
  • Wood ash. Great for aphids. Ash, tobacco dust, mustard must be poured with hot water, boiling water can be mixed and left overnight. Then strain and add 3 tbsp. tar soap. This solution should be sprayed on the leaves.
  • Burdock. This plant helps fight butterflies. A bunch of burdock should be soaked in 10 liters of water and stirred from time to time. The finished product is poured over the leaves and roots. Since ancient times, small bores of cabbage were closed with burdock, so they quickly took root and developed.
  • Chicken droppings. It is used not only to protect against parasites, but also is a good fertilizer. It is necessary to make an infusion (dilute 200 g of chicken droppings in a 10 l bucket of water) and pour over the cabbage. After such a solution, the cabbage will begin to grow faster and better.
  • Vinegar. It is a reliable and effective method. 6% of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed with leaves. To prevent plants from getting burned, it is better to process after sunset.
  • Bay leaf. It should be brewed in 1 liter of hot water and sprayed with vegetables.

There are many more different ways to protect yourself from parasites, incl. and chemicals, but they cannot be used before harvesting, because they are harmful to the body. But simple ecological solutions, as well as timely care, will help save cabbage and get the desired result.

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Read more: 12 most common diseases and pests of plums and cherry plums


How to protect your garden and vegetable garden from pests in winter

During the summer, gardeners and gardeners, examining plants damaged by various pests and diseases, ask themselves the question: "Where did all this misfortune come from?" And most often they immediately answer themselves: "Probably, it flew from the neighboring area." The neighbor at this time is busy with the same thoughts.

Where do pests and pathogens in our areas actually come from? The answer is simple - they are here all the time. After all, most of our pests are transferred to cultivated plants from their wild relatives. Naturally, succulent cabbage leaves will be more attractive to cabbage than wild crucifers, and potato tubers are much tastier for wireworms than wheatgrass roots.

Even in winter, pests do not leave our sites. Each pest species is able to survive the winter only at a certain stage of its development. For example, many isopteran insects (aphids, suckers) and some butterflies (gypsy moth, winter moth) hibernate in the egg phase. Another group of pests hibernates in the larval phase. These include wireworms (larvae of click beetles), beetles, bears, onion flies and others.

In the pupa phase, many butterflies (cabbage whites, scoops, moths), cabbage flies and other flies overwinter. And finally, weevils, Colorado beetles, cruciferous fleas spend the winter in the phase of an adult insect.

Wintering sites for pests are quite diverse. Most often, insects spend the winter in some kind of shelter. However, eggs of sucker moths, ringed silkworms and some other insects are found openly on tree branches and survive even in severe frosts. The same can be said about the pupae of the cabbage whites hanging openly on the fences. On fruit trees, some caterpillars overwinter in nests of leaves tied with a cobweb.

The surface layer of the soil is most often used by pests for wintering. After all, under a layer of snow, the temperature is not as low as on the thermometer outside the window. Most beetles and their larvae, pupae of flies and scoops, bears, eggs of slugs and other pests find refuge here. Many harmful organisms also spend the winter in heaps of garbage and in uncleared fallen leaves. Pests such as whiteflies, some aphids and thrips can overwinter in vegetable stores, and if a greenhouse is located next to the plots, then a variety of pests in summer beds, and especially in protected ground, is practically ensured.

Diseases cause great harm to cultivated plants. The most common cause of the disease is fungi. These organisms also winter next to us. Pathogens of black leg and keel of cabbage, fusarium overwinter in the soil. On plant residues, spores of brown spotting of tomatoes, anthracnose of cucumbers, scab and fruit rot of an apple tree, powdery mildew persist. Phytophthora and potato scab are preserved in tubers during storage.

In order to reduce crop losses from pests, protective measures should be started in the fall. The area should be tidied up - to remove fallen leaves, plant debris and weeds. With this simple technique, we remove a huge reserve of infection and deprive many pests of wintering places. From fruit trees it is necessary to remove the fruits and leaves remaining on them.

You should also dig up the soil onto the bayonet of the shovel. With the help of this technique, all pests and pathogens of plant diseases wintering in the surface layer of the soil are buried in the ground, from where they will not get out in the spring. And those species of insects that prefer the lower horizons of the soil for wintering, when digging, turn out to be carried to the surface, where they have little chance of surviving the winter.

When planting crops before winter, only healthy planting material should be used, diseased and suspicious bulbs should be carefully culled. Tree trunks must be wrapped with roofing material or sewn into a wooden box to protect them from rodents. On the territory of the site prepared in this way for winter, a minimum number of pests remains. Birds that stay overwinter provide invaluable help in the fight against tree pests. Tits, nuthatches and pikas are especially useful. By hanging feeders during the winter, you can attract them to the area where the birds will destroy all insects available to them.

In the spring (in March - April), the trunks of fruit trees must be whitened - treated with a solution of lime. To do this, 1.5-2 kg of slaked lime must be diluted in 8-10 liters of water. For better adhesion, add 200-300 grams of flour paste. The solution is applied with brushes or a clean mop. It is useful to spray this composition and branches. This technique protects the tree from sunburn of the bark in spring and destroys harmful organisms. Before whitewashing, the trunk must be cleaned of dirt, lichens and pieces of loose bark.

As soon as the soil begins to warm up in the spring, hungry insects crawl out of their shelters. There is still nothing on the site, and the pests have already begun their dirty work.

The first to appear are apple weevils, which fly to the branches of the apple tree and damage the buds. After a while, the females will lay eggs, one in each bud.Each female lays up to 100 eggs, thereby causing significant damage to the crop. So the fight against this pest should be started when the daytime air temperature reaches +8 + 10 ° C. To do this, early in the morning, when it is still cold, you need to spread old plastic or tarpaulin under the apple tree and then shake the tree strongly. Beetles fall down where they are easy to collect. If possible, this operation should be carried out as often as possible. When the buds begin to loosen, the beetles stop laying.

Around the same time, cruciferous fleas appear from the soil, which begin to feed on the overwintered shepherd's bag and wait for radish shoots and cabbage seedlings to appear on the beds. If the weeds are removed, the fleas will be left without food.

Buds begin to bloom on the black currant bushes. Some of them have grown a lot, but do not bloom. This means that the bush is infected with a currant kidney mite, the fight against which is very difficult. These very kidneys are simply stuffed with microscopic mites. When the currants bloom, the mites move into healthy buds. It is almost impossible to destroy a tick on an adult bush. One can only advise to prune heavily infested shoots and remove affected buds.

All these techniques, carried out in autumn and early spring, will reduce the number of pests on the site, greatly facilitate the fight against them in summer and significantly increase the yield.

T. Zavyalova,
candidate of agricultural sciences


Caterpillar destroys cabbage - what everyone has at home will help

Often parasites can be seen on cabbage that damage the top leaf, shortening the shelf life of vegetables and causing disease. I will tell you how to protect cabbage from caterpillars using a very simple tool that everyone has at home.

Willow (lat.Salix)

Willow is a woody plant from the Willow family. Loves humidity, grows in damp places. Thanks to a good root system, willows are used to anchor soils, coastal edges of rivers, and dam slopes.

Believe it or not, you will need regular toothpaste, powder, or even a liquid gargle to get rid of cabbage pests. To prepare the solution, you do not need to take a new tube, it is enough to remove the remnants of the dried substance from the old one.

You yourself can calculate the amount of funds that will be needed to process cabbage beds. For 1 sq. m plantings average consumption - 1 liter. To prepare 10 liters, you will need 3 tbsp. tablespoons of toothpaste or 2 - tooth powder.

The paste needs to be poured with warm water, and if there is no desire to pick it out, you can cut the tube and pour it along with it. Leave to infuse for 2-3 hours. Then we spray the vegetables with the prepared solution, like a regular pest repellent.

Making a tooth powder for cabbage

After 3-4 daily treatments, you will notice that insects begin to appear less often, and they clearly do not like the product. After a week, cabbage pests will completely disappear.

When I was advised this method, I did not believe it. But after a long struggle with pests, I decided to check if the toothpaste would really solve my problem, and I was pleasantly surprised. Use and grow healthy and tasty cabbage.


How else can you protect your orchard from pests

  • Peel off old bark from trees in fall and spring to remove cocoons with hibernating caterpillars.
  • Collect carrion daily. It is useful to lightly shake the trees before collecting volunteers to control the loss of damaged fruits.
  • On the path of movement of caterpillars returning from the ground after the fall of the fruit to the feeding place in the crown, you can apply a trapping glue belt made of ordinary adhesive tape for flies. The belts are superimposed with the appearance of the first volunteer on the trunks of apple trees and supports, not high from the ground. They need to be updated periodically.
  • Make butterfly traps. You can catch butterflies in the evening for apple syrup, which is prepared from dried fruits: 100 g of dried apples are boiled for 30 minutes in 2 liters of water, sugar and yeast are added. With the onset of fermentation, the liquid becomes attractive to butterflies. It is poured into any containers and placed around the site. The butterflies land on the foamy surface and die.
  • Store crops in closed boxes with a lid, no crevices. Place the pieces of corrugated paper where the caterpillars that come out of the carpets are hiding. The paper, along with the caterpillars or pupae, is subsequently burned.
  • Burn the used backwaters after harvesting the apples. If you want to keep them, scald them with boiling water first.
  • Some pests (for example, fruit sawflies, weevils and other beetles) can be removed manually in early spring by shaking them off the trees in a substituted container (bucket, basin) or on a film sent out under the plant. This procedure is carried out in the early morning, while the insects are under the influence of the cold and have not scattered around the garden. The captured pests are destroyed mechanically or drowned in water.
  • Loosening the soil in autumn will help to significantly reduce the number of moths on apple trees.

Processing tomatoes in the greenhouse from the scoop.


Watch the video: Get Rid of Pest Caterpillars In The Garden Once And For All!