How to get rid of gladiolus thrips

How to get rid of gladiolus thrips

Gladiolus biology

To more clearly represent this pest on the gladiolus and more clearly calculate the measures to combat it, you need to briefly describe the biology of the plant itself. Gladiolus is a perennial herb that has a corm in the lower part of the stem with several dormant buds, of which, as a rule, only one develops.

It has a straight stem with a few xiphoid leaves (up to 90 cm long). The inflorescence (ear) consists of 6-20 large flowers, which are located on the peduncle in 1-2 rows. In some varieties, the ear can be up to 1.5 m long and have up to 28 buds. Flowers alternately open from bottom to top (3-12 flowers sometimes bloom at the same time). Gladiolus blooms from July to September.

Its early varieties bloom 70 days after planting, medium early ones - after 80 days, late ones - after 90 days. Corms in gladioli are round, with a diameter of 2 to 8 cm, depending on the variety and age. Every year, the old corms are depleted and dying by the fall; instead of it, a new one is formed, children appear (0.1-1 cm in size).

Of the numerous pests of gladiolus, gladiolus thrips, a small (1-1.5 mm long) insect (dark brown in color), brings a lot of troubles to the grower. This winged pest (its light, fringed wings are folded on the back) is able to move even in one flight over rather considerable distances, therefore, during the summer period it can master a very large territory.

Thrips and its larvae (yellow-brown color) suck the plant sap from the leaves, which, as a result of such damage, become grayish, dry, rough (whitish streaks and black dots are clearly visible on them at the bite sites). The flowers inhabited by the pest are deformed (the edges of the perianth lobes become thinner), look withering, and discolor.

With severe damage, the buds (especially the upper ones) do not open, they look like glued together, dry out, and the peduncle itself bends. In this case, it is easy to find yellow larvae and young thrips if you look into the leaf axils or unfold the bud wrappers. At the end of the growing season of early varieties, the pest moves to feed on medium-early varieties, then on late varieties, therefore it gives several generations per season.

To begin a favorable development, thrips needs a temperature of at least 10 ° C. The female lays up to 25 eggs in gladiolus tissue, of which initially white larvae hatch within 12-15 days (depending on weather conditions). The pest reproduces most actively in dry, hot weather. With a strong decrease in temperature (for example, when freezing to -3 ° C), it dies.

With a cold weather to 8 ° C, it goes into the soil (but does not hibernate there), but climbs under the scales of corms, with which it endures an unfavorable winter period in storage conditions. Since the harvesting of young bulbs (especially mid-early varieties) is carried out quite early (usually before the onset of severe cold weather), thrips enters the storage along with the harvest, where it continues to actively feed and multiply for some time (and at a sufficiently high storage temperature, even in winter), sucking juices already from corms.

As a result of numerous bites, the surface of the plant material takes on a dull appearance, speckled with small dots, and becomes rough to the touch. With a high number of insects and a large amount of damage on the corm, the formation of brownish crusty spots is observed. Due to such a strong effect of the pest, the corm and its sprout dry out strongly, and when bulkhead and cleaning, yellow dust spills out from such plant material, irritating the nasal mucosa of the grower and capable of causing allergies.

Control measures for gladiolus thrips

After the purchase, the seed is treated before planting for prophylaxis, for example, with a solution of fufanon, ke (10 ml / 10 l of water) or actellik, ke (20 ml / 10 l). During the growing season, the health of the plants is closely and weekly monitored.

At the first appearance of a pest on a plant, this often happens in mid-June, the foliage is sprayed using both vegetable extracts of garlic, tobacco, makhorka, and the above insecticides. Fitoverm, ke (8 ml / l of water) can be recommended as a biological preparation. Plant treatments are carried out at intervals of 10-14 days; during the flowering period, the concentration is reduced by a third.

Experts recommend alternating insecticides in order to prevent the pest from getting used to a particular drug. When the temperature drops below 9 ... 10oС, the pest goes into the soil, so there is no point in spraying during such periods. If by the fall it was not possible to destroy the pest, then after harvesting the corms are soaked in solutions of the drugs recommended above. For example, after digging the corms, they are treated with a 0.1% solution of fufanon for 10-15 minutes, and in the spring this operation is repeated.

Some growers resort to spring pre-planting heat treatment of corms with hot water to kill thrips (at a water temperature of 42 ... 44 ° C for 1 hour or at 50 ° C - 10 minutes). This procedure must be approached with extreme caution, strictly maintaining the temperature regime so as not to "cook" the seed. Other amateurs, for preventive purposes, carry out pre-planting soaking of corms in diluted garlic juice for 1 hour.

Alexander Lazarev,
candidate of biological sciences,
Senior Researcher, VIZR

Prevention is the key to plant health

1. Do not use greenhouses intended for growing cucumbers and tomatoes for early spring planting of onions, green crops and ornamental plants.

2. Before planting onions on the site, it is necessary to disinfect the bulbs

a) in hot water (45 ° C) for 10 minutes, followed by cooling in cold water

b) soak the bulbs (gladiolus and other bulbous plants) in 2% sodium nitrate solution for 24 hours

c) dry the bulbs for 5-7 days at a temperature of 35-37 ° С

d) look through the bulbs intended for sowing for the presence of small mobile insects (thrips) in them, which can be quite easy to notice even with the naked eye.

3. Do not treat plants in a greenhouse against aphids with tobacco dust and infusions of tobacco, onion scales or garlic. Only decoctions of them are needed.

4. Timely destroy plant residues in the greenhouse; carry out autumn digging of the soil; destroy weeds.

This should be done around the greenhouse as well.

Why are thrips dangerous?

Thrips are very small insects that are difficult to notice and even more closely examine with the naked eye. These harmful species have a certain specificity of body structure and are slightly different from other sucking insects (aphids, whiteflies, etc.). Read more about the danger of different types of thrips and about the cycles of their development in one of the cards of the Encyclopedia of Pests - Thrips.

Cucumber thrips

Different types of thrips leave similar damage, but different crops are harmed to varying degrees. Cucumbers, for example, are more tender than nightshades - external damage from thrips in the former is more pronounced. If on the leaves of nightshades, after feeding the larvae, strokes or necrosis of an irregular shape, black spots of excrement from above more often remain, then on cucumbers such symptoms are observed only at the beginning, and then leaves dry out quickly... This is how cucumbers damage tobacco thrips (Thrips tabaci Lind.) and his "colleague" black-haired thrips (Thrips nigropilosus Uzel). Western floral, aka Californian, thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis Perg.) also feeds on the flower buds of cucumbers, as a result of which the flowers are deformed and the fruits grow ugly.

Eggplant thrips

Everyone is familiar with the irritation, redness, itching on the hands (or more serious allergic reactions) that appear after working with eggplant bushes. This happens most often in greenhouses and hotbeds. The reason for this reaction is the small trichome hairs that densely cover the eggplant leaves. Selective selection is aimed at creating varieties and hybrids of eggplant with a minimum number of these hairs. This is done for our convenience. But seven years ago, entomologists began to warn of a very interesting problem that gardeners may soon face.

Small, spiky hairs cover the eggplant leaves and protect them from pest damage. Do we need varieties with minimal pubescence?

Here's the thing. Eggplant is mainly damaged by tobacco thrips, it larvae prefer group food on the underside of the leaf... And it is she who is especially pubescent in the eggplant. Trichome hairs have a complex structure - one vertical needle and horizontal needles located on the sides are visible under high magnification. Adult insects and thrips larvae, moving along the leaf, fall on these needles, piercing them through.

Tobacco thrips. Photo from the site

When we understand this process, it becomes clear why exactly eggplant is less damaged by thrips compared to other cultures. Therefore, it is obvious that with the spread of varieties with minimal leaf pubescence, the harmfulness of thrips on eggplants will soon be the same as on other plants.

In addition to tobacco and black-haired thrips, eggplants can be seen thrips palm (Thrips palmi Karny).

Thrips on peppers and tomatoes

It's hard to believe, but in the Soviet Union, thrips on peppers were practically not found either in the open or in protected ground. Occasionally, individual individuals or even populations from neighboring crops could get on the pepper, but they, as they say, "did not stay for a long time." After perestroika, imports poured into our country - flowers, vegetables and fruits, and along with them the frequency of invasive species of pests entering our territory increased. In this way, the California thrips also penetrated to us.

Western flower thrips was recorded on the territory of the USSR, and then the Russian Federation in the late 80s - early 90s. Greenhouses of the Leningrad Region were the first to discover it, and now it is already distributed almost everywhere, although it is still on the list of quarantine pests. Thus, the Rosselkhoznadzor, in its report on its work for the period from March 6 to March 13, 2020, points to 3 cases of detecting Western flower thrips in pepper samples taken from consignments of imported plant products that entered the Russian Federation from Israel.

Western flower (California) thrips. Invasive and highly harmful species. Photo from the site

Western flower thrips have been reported on 250 plant species. He fell in love with pepper as much as tomato. This species is considered especially harmful because, in addition to the main negative effects on the damaged plants, it is an active carrier of dangerous viral diseases... On pepper, it also damages the fruits - external manifestations look like small necrosis in area. The market value of the fruits is falling, but the main thing is that the infection with Alternaria increases significantly. It causes dry rot on the fruit, making it unusable or unfit for sale.

Dangerous for peppers and cucumber mosaic viruscausing curly leaves of pepper. And this infection is also carried by the California thrips. There are several options for the development of the disease. With a transient form, the plant dries up, while remaining green. With the so-called brown form, during the budding period, individual parts of the leaves turn brown and dry, the disease spreads along the plant from the bottom up. With a yellow form, the leaves, accordingly, turn yellow, the plant ceases to develop and form fruits. It is not hard to guess what happens with the dwarf form of the disease.

Over the past couple of years, scientific literature has appeared data on the disease of sweet pepper bronzing, the causative agent of which is the tomato bronzing virus, which is actively spread by the California thrips.

Thrips contribute to the spread of the tomato bronzing virus. They also carry this disease to pepper.

Also on pepper you can now find tobacco thrips and palm thrips... On a tomato of several types of thrips that damage it, the western flower (California) thrips is also considered the most dangerous. Carried by him bronzing virus on tomato manifests itself for a long time and "in all its glory." Moreover, if in capital, large greenhouses, the disease is quite rare, then in film greenhouses and greenhouses it occurs every year. Previously, it was complained about in the southern regions of our country, and in 2012 it was first recorded in the Moscow region. Over the past 8 years, tomato bronze has actively spread over the middle lane and more northern regions. Thanks to the thrips.

The symptoms of this disease are very diverse, in some cases it can be confused with other viral or even fungal diseases. Sometimes the picture becomes characteristic, it was she who gave the second name of the disease - the spotted wilting of the tomato. Due to wilting and loss of presentation, you can completely lose the crop.

Tobacco dust

Eliminates aphids, suckers, thrips, cruciferous fleas, moths, sawflies, leafworms, weevils, moths, spider mites and ants.

Tobacco dust

It disorients pests, drowning out and distorting the smell of the "fodder" plant.

  • Recipe 1 - dry
Just dust the green part of the plant with tobacco dust at the rate of 30-50 g per 10 m².

  • Recipe 2 - infusion
Insist 50 g of tobacco dust in 1 liter of warm water for a day. Strain, dilute in half, you can add to stick the laundry soap at the rate of 40 g per 10 liters of the finished solution.

  • Recipe 3 - decoction
Add 100 g of tobacco dust to 10 liters of water, boil for 0.5 hours, leave for 24 hours. Strain, dilute three times with water, add 40 g of household soap.

  • Recipe 4 - fumigation
Place a container with burning coals under a tree on a cloth or film, pour up to 0.5-0.6 kg of tobacco dust on the coals. (As an option: sprinkle the straw scattered under the tree with tobacco dust and set it on fire)

How to use it?

Pests and diseases of gladioli - how to deal with them

They are found only in summer due to partial yellowing or non-standard striping of leaf areas, causing variegation of flowers, which is not inherent in the variety. The bulbs imperceptibly become smaller, the colorful flowering stops.

Fungal diseases harm gladiolus and fusarium is catastrophically dangerous - its fungus attacks quickly and up to 90% of flowers disappear. The pathogenic fungus seeps through the root filaments. The disease of gladioli begins due to an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.

And the root onion mite leads to a secondary infection - soft bacterial rot. As a result, gladioli rot by spring.

What are gladioli sick with?

That's why after harvesting gladioli

Small brown spots are formed, which then turn brown and dry. It is dangerous that the disease is transmitted to the daughter forming corms, and its core, invisible under the covering scales, is infected.

, Gardeners in the fall dig up corms, dry them and put them in storage, and then tremble over their treasure, checking several times over the winter how they feel, whether they are healthy.

How do you find the key to solving the problem?

Before planting gladioli, I don't dig the soil either. I don’t bring in new organics. After the snow melts, I water the ground with AKCh and cover it with non-woven material.At the end of April, gladioli bulbs can be planted.You always have potatoes and tomatoes in your garden that are infected with mosaic viruses. These viruses slowly weaken the immunity of bulbous plants, and gladioli infected with mosaic can bloom well for another 2-3 years.Naturally, all this must be done according to the rules so that the poison does not enter the lungs. I do not like soaking the baby in fungicides, since I then clean it, and with a wet baby it is more difficult to do this.

Bulbs infect fusarium, botrytis, gray rot. That is, viruses weaken the immune system, and other diseases eat up the diseased plant.The fight is useless. There is no cure, infected gladioli are simply destroyed. Prevention helps - directed rejection of "unwanted" specimens. Strong viruses are sent through the sap of the plant when flowers are cut, and also by sucking pests. They live abundantly in the southern suitable regions of Russia.Small brown specks are visible on the corms; in the future, they are disguised as sagging spots of scales on the bulbs - they look like scorched ones. In summer, chic leaves for some reason turn yellow and rot away from the base.And in general, if we talk about diseases that develop during storage of gladioli, they are always associated with rotting of corms. The infection penetrates from the soil during the growing season, is often transmitted in a latent form from the mother corm to the young substitute and children. The most severe rot of corms is spread in years with an abundance of precipitation and stagnation of water in the soil.It is imperative to burn plant residues, as well as dig upAnother dangerous diseaseAnd there are reasons for concern

View plant shoots

I make deep grooves with a hoe - it's easy on loose, weed-free soil. At the bottom of the groove, I put old compost or peat and locally I bring in Buiski OMU (with a composition for bulbous plants).But the aphid also feeds on cucumbers. There is its own virus - cucumber mosaic. If two viruses enter the gladiolus at once, the disease enters the acute phase, and the gladiolus dies in the same year.It is very difficult to fight with mushrooms on bulbs, and it is also pointless. If you see a lesion with a fungus, it means that the plant is already infected with a virus. We must burn it. With the baby, again, no problem. For these purposes, I clean it.

In the photo - a bed with bulbs of the second year of cultivation. There is no fungal infection, but in some places there is a slight infection by ticks and, possibly, the onset of viral diseases. Apple tree chips mulch:

Our main enemies

Treatment for sclerotinia.Fusarium gladiolus, brown heart rot, hard rot, or septoria, dry rot, or sclerotinia, penicillous rot - all these diseases lead to massive rotting of corms both during the growing season and during storage. The causative agents are pathogenic fungal microorganisms, and the causative agent of gladiolus scab is a bacterium.Soil.

From which gladioli suffer is fusarium. Affected plants turn yellow

Prevention of thrips and ticks

, Because corms are infected with dangerous diseases and pests that continue to develop during storage.

, Both from the baby and from the bulbs of the first year, mercilessly pulling out and burning all plants lagging behind in growth, especially those with variegated leaves.The baby can be planted a little earlier than the bulbs -In any soil, there are always pathogenic fungi. But there are also a lot of them on weeds. Many of them are carried by the wind and, falling on leaves in damp weather, can weaken even an elite plant. Therefore, since July, to prevent the planting of my plants, I have been sprinkling with modern fungicides -Hands in thin gloves and small tweezers - you can clean a dozen children in a minute. As soon as I find any speck with fungal lesions, I immediately send the child to destruction, and disinfect my hands (gloves) and tweezers in hydrogen peroxide.So viruses are the key link? But can we cure a plant from viruses? Not! And that's why the whole world went to

Nowadays, any gardener in early spring can go to garden stores and buy gladiolus bulbs. Eyes diverge from gorgeous advertising images of chic colors in all shades of the rainbow.

Removal of diseased, infested onion tubers. When grown for preventive spraying, gladioli need - treatment with special preparations containing copper - (Abiga-Peak, an excellent preparation Hom, powerful Ordan).

Prevention of fungal diseases in children

Symptoms of the presence of certain diseases can be seen not only in the state of the corms, but also in the appearance of vegetative plants. If the leaves turn pale and rot, then most likely, fusarium corm rot is spreading. If the leaves turn brown and rot from the base, in the lower part of the stem, then this is a symptom of dry, or sclerocial, gladiolus rot. If large brown spots are visible on the leaves damaged by pests and a smoky-gray sporulation of the fungus develops, then gray rot spreads, which, during storage, manifests itself as brown core rot of the corm.

Dry out and are easily pulled out of the ground.

Prevention of viral diseases

Therefore, it is very important to know

Fungal diseases with the wind are constantly brought in, so I remember that gladiolus without a constantAt soil temperature + 4 ... + 6 degreesWith the preparations of Skor or Horus

I put the cleaned baby in a jar of water, in which I add 20 ml of hydrogen peroxide to 200 ml of water, and bubble it with an aquarium compressor for 6-12 hours. All fungal spores are washed off and killed. After processing, I store the baby in a cold place for no more than 1-2 days. Better to drop off immediately.

Growing virus-free mother materialBut, visiting the garden plots of familiar gardeners at the end of summer, we rarely see luxurious and slender flowers - more often there are small, motley twisted gladioli, affected by all known diseases.The fungus is most dangerous to gladiolus plantations in places with a damp and very cool climate; it lives inside the soil for up to 25 years. infection and disease - during the growing season of the flower. Very dangerous for gladiolus!Do not be fooled if only one or several plants are affected during the growing season. This may indicate the presence of infection on everyone else. Plus, diseases, as a rule, manifest themselves in a complex, and several pathogens may be present on one corm, each of which, if the storage conditions are violated, can lead to death. And if you add more gladiolus thrips and a root onion mite, then the picture will become absolutely terrible.Penetrates into the corms through the bottom or wounds and settles between the scales.Rarely formed flower arrow withersSymptoms of disease damage and damage by pests, which are not alwaysFungicide treatments... At this temperature, first of all, the root system begins to actively develop.

In the first months of growth, I carefully examine the seedlings. I dig in and discard everything that is sharply lagging in growth, with curved leaves and, especially, with a mosaic of leaves. There are no other ways to reduce viral diseases on bulbous plants.

Prevention of diseases caused by pathogenic fungi

... Superelite of potatoes and strawberries. Virus-free elite seeds of tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers are known to many. Now there are virus-free lilacs, currants and other shrubs, virus-free clonal rootstocks of apple trees.I have been doing gladioli for over 40 years. I stuffed a lot of cones, gained experience, and now I have a good collection of gladioli from domestic breeders, received from the authors. They grow up without getting sick, revealing all their possibilities inherent in the genes.Flower tubers wither. With the growth of leaves, they are mostly covered with unpleasant brown rounded foci, spots, quickly turn yellow and dry up, the flower looks like it has been treated with a strong herbicide.For dahlias and cannes, the most common diseases are gray, dry and soft bacterial rot of tubers. They are severely damaged by soil pests and their larvae, for example, click beetle larvae - wireworms. In some years, I will not save from slugs and snails, the caterpillars of the scoop and the onion mite cause great harm. Any mechanical damage to tubers leads to decay and the spread of certain diseases. Moreover, if, after digging, we leave together healthy and decaying plants for one reason or another, then there is a re-infection, reproduction and dispersal of pests. And this often leads to a complete loss of the stored planting material.Adult mites and their larvae suck the juices and grind the bottom, especially along the edges, which makes it rotten and disappears. During storage, with severe damage to the bulbs, the surface of the scales is covered with brownish dust, they rot and dry out., Not having time to bloom, or gives colorless flowers (Fig. 2).Noticeable, timely remove diseased and damaged corms in order to prevent re-infection of healthy ones.In 2-3 years it will accumulate a critical mass of fungal diseases, and I spray it 2-3 times over the summer with Skor, Horus, Ridomil Gold. Spraying ACC during the summer also inhibits the accumulation of fungal diseases.I level the beds. I plant dill, cilantro, basil and so on next to the ribbons of gladioli. I mulch the beds with compost. Basil does not protect the beds for long, then I remove it and spray the gladioli with modern pesticides:Ridomil GoldSince the disease is carried mainly by aphids, thrips and ticks, I every 10-14 days

Organic methods of growing gladioli

With gladiolus, the gardener is usually easier. The plant gives a lot of babies and multiplies quickly. It is enough to purchase a baby from a reliable grower, during cultivation, carry out a strict culling of lagging and diseased plants, protect them from infection with viruses in the next at least 2-3 years - and magnificent exhibition gladioli will bloom in your garden.

Gladioli suffer from all of the same diseases as other bulbous plants such as onions and garlic. Like strawberries and cucumbers. Like potatoes and tomatoes. These are, first of all, viruses, then fungi that infect both leaves and roots are bacteria and mycoplasmas are countless hordes of ticks, thrips, aphids and caterpillars. But for gladioli, pampered by endless selection for the sake of beauty and have forgotten how to live without pesticides, who have lost their immunity, all this is tenfold more dangerous. In the meantime, there is no need to know about it. ”The treatment is like that.If during the growing season there was a large number of thrips, then 10-14 days before digging, you can spray the plants with Fitoverm, Fufanon, Aktara or IntaVIR. The Q tank mixture Fufanon + HOM is often used, which allows at the same time to somewhat reduce the infectious background.

Before planting in the ground if you suspect

The disease is usually transmitted through planting material or through contaminated soil.

In the spring, take a close look

I quickly dry the dug out bulbs under a canopy andIn April-May and September-October, I cover the planting with non-woven fabric on the arcs. I extend the growing season up to 6 months. Usually, in such conditions, the bulbs do not have signs of fungal diseases and grow from the baby up to 1-2 parsing, many throw out the peduncle in the fall.Like on potatoes. If I suspect the presence of pathogenic fungi in the soil, then I powder the bulb before planting

I process plants with Fitoverm

End of July, the bulbs of the first year after the baby bloom, leaves and flowers without diseases and pests

Any gardener has seen spots of rot on the bulbs of gladioli and heard that the bulbs need to be treated with something. He wants to find the secrets of such processing. He uses both folk and chemical methods, poison himself, but no one has yet been able to cure the diseased bulb. This is how a typical complex damage to plants looks like by mid-July:

Summing up

After digging directly - drying of the tuberous bulbs is done at + 25 +30, pickling with the drug Maxim, which is recommended on gladioli, standard storage is + 5 + 10 ° C. Copper preparations do not help; they are useless.

When digging, try to separate plants with browning and drying symptoms from healthy plants.For damage to corms by mites or thripsBrown decaying spots appear on the corms

Your planting material. If the corms are weakly affected, thenWhen storing​ ​

... It is more environmentally friendly for the soil, and there are no pests resistant to it. It is important to apply it correctly: in warm dry weather, irrigating the entire plant, strictly following the instructions - and then "heavy" insecticides will not be needed.Now it is clear what is the key link in the fight against gladiolus diseases? That's right, the key link is the fight against thrips, aphids, ticks, with all gnawing and sucking insects - carriers of viral diseases. This is the fight against weeds - breeding grounds for viruses and diseases. In the meantime, there is no need to know about it. ”The gardener sees signs of various diseases on the leaves - stripes, strokes, curvatures, drying out of the tips. Begins to spray plants on the advice of neighbors. But science has not yet invented a cure for viral diseases, and pests (thrips and mites), which are always in purchased bulbs, have acquired resistance to our usual means of protection.

Fungal spores are carried by the wind, and gladiolus disease occurs when the humidity is high. When storing planting tubers at room temperatures without treatment, the disease can kill all the bulbs.It is better to collect and burn all plant residues, since many pathogenic microorganisms remain in the soil for many years, even after surviving plant residues, in the form of special formations - sclerotia.Disinfect them for 15-30 minutes in a 1% solution of actara, decis or fufanon. Inta-vir is also effective (1 tablet per 10 liters of water).

With pink pads of fungus sporulation,They can be planted in boxes or on a separate bed, after pretreating with one of the drugs: 1% Bordeaux liquid, 0.4% copper oxychloride, 0.2% topsynom, 0.2% foundation or soon , dust with wood ash, and pour clean river sand on the bottom.Be sure to spray with a mixture of Aktara and Aktelika from thrips and ticks. But I do not process fungicides in the winter - it makes no sense. If you find mushroom-infested bulbs in the spring, they should be thrown away, not treated. After all, they contain not only fungi, but also viruses.

There are no pathogens on the baby after treatment in hydrogen peroxide. In the soil, which has not been dug for several years, where fresh organic matter has not been brought in for digging, there is no critical mass of pathogenic fungi at the root depth, and saprophytic aerobes prevail. Many useful nematodes, worms that eat mushrooms and improve soil structure.Or soak inIt is convenient to spray such beds (in two lines, with chip mulch) with pesticides

Prevention is better than cure

After all, all store bulbs are grown on large plantations, usually in hot countries, and when they are grown industrially, tons of killer chemicals are used. Therefore, fungi and pests, having acquired resistance to lethal pesticides, look at our "folk methods" with a smile.

Svetlana Barinova, Kovrov

On the corms of gladiolus, the disease occurs as watery rounded specks, in priority turning into hardening black rot. Scab-like "opaline" scales. In summer, on the grown leaves, red-brown areas are visible, spots with a frame and gray dots in the center, plants are subject to oppression.

Zoya Khashutogova, Ramenskoye

If the material is weak, immature and with symptoms of diseases, then it is better to immediately cut off the stems, rinse the corms or tubers and soak the mixture of HOM + Fufanon for 30 minutes.

Natalja, Moscow

If the planting material has successfully overwintered

Lyudmila Uleiskaya, Yalta

Arranged in concentric circles. The mycelium of the fungus can penetrate into the vascular system of daughter corms and children: with severe damage, they rot in the soil or gladioli grow, doomed to death.

How to deal with pests of gladioli

Pests harm any plant.

And what about us, flower growers, it becomes insulting if this happens with our favorite flowers. Let's talk about pests of gladioli.

There are pests that can completely destroy the entire flower, at first gladioli slow down development, then they begin to turn yellow, wither and soon disappear completely.

These are the malicious pests: click beetles, winter scoops and rootworms damage corms and plant roots, and leaves, flowers and buds damage cabbage and mustard scoops.

When growing gladioli, iris, daffodils or carnations on a personal plot, you need to be ready for the appearance of gladiolus thrips, its size is up to 1.5 mm.

Its larvae are light yellow with a tubular process in the back, an adult brown insect with wings.

Their wintering takes place on plants, in a room with a temperature above 10 ° C, thrips begin to multiply and the larvae from flowers and leaves suck sap. On the leaves of gladioli, you can see spots, dashes (traces of rupture of the skin) and dots.

When a flower arrow appears, thrips migrate to it from under the scales of corms, and when buds appear, they move inward, as a result of which the flowers wither and dry out. In the fall, they reach the lower parts of the plant.

Corms remain inhabited by thrips, so during storage they begin to darken and dry out.

How to deal with gladiolus thrips

  • cut the plants earlier, otherwise thrips will get to their bottom over time
  • removing gladioli, clear the area of ​​all vegetation and dig up the soil
  • if the corms of gladioli are populated with thrips, then they need to be neutralized (immerse the corms in water at 50 ° C for 5 minutes or treat them with karbofos 2 g per 1 liter of water), dry and store further
  • conduct a regular inspection of the corms of gladioli, if a pest is noticed, immediately start a fight with it: sprinkle the corms with chalk or fluff lime, for 1 kg of planting material 25-30 g of sprinkling
  • if the sprouts have not yet appeared on the corms, then for 10-15 pieces of corms, take 5 g of naphthalene, place it all in a paper bag and leave for 1 month, then ventilate and continue storage
  • view the corms before planting, remove the infested
  • at the end of June, the vegetation of gladioli occurs, at this time the plants can be treated with karbofos (for 10 liters of water 75 g of the drug) and so several times every 7 days
  • plant calendula, garlic and onions with gladioli, which will scare off thrips
  • the next planting of gladioli in the same area should be no earlier than 3-4 years later.

When growing gladioli, tulips, lilies, hyacinths or daffodils, you can find a root onion mite, the length of which is 1 mm, and the color is light yellow.

Mites are found in tops, which can remain on the ground, so by planting plants in such a soil, you will doom them.

First of all, the bulbs suffer, from which the larvae begin to suck the juice. As a result, the development of gladioli stops, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither.

When storing flower bulbs, you need to take into account that they must be cleaned of old scales and roots, otherwise the mites can live there.

If you see brownish dust on the bulbs, this means that it is damaged by an onion mite. By planting such bulbs in the ground, you will infect not only the soil, but also other plants.

How to deal with root onion mites

  • inspect all bulbs before planting in the ground
  • plants with yellowed leaves remove
  • the next planting of bulbous plants should be no earlier than after 3-4 years
  • after harvesting the bulbs, all vegetation on the site must be carefully removed
  • before storage, inspect the bulbs, remove old scales and roots
  • regularly inspect the bulbs, if found, remove the damaged ones and sprinkle with chalk or sulfur on 1 kg of bulbs 20 g of the preparation
  • observe the temperature regime in the room 2-5 ° С
  • damaged bulbs are kept in water at 50 ° C for 5 minutes or processing for about 40 minutes in a solution of keltan (3 g per 1 l of water), 30% karbofos (5 g per 1 l of water)
  • process the bulbs with 10% karbofos (75 g of the preparation for 10 liters of water)
  • during the growing season, pour a celtan over the root (20 g for 10 liters of water).

Did you like the article? Share it with your friends! (links below)

Watch the video: how to get rid of THRIPS and SCALE BUGS