The foliage of the pseudo-erantemum is decorated with spectacular unusual patterns. It is characterized by continuous growth and demanding care. Therefore, pseudoerantemum is suitable for growing only by experienced growers. However, for all the work and care, the plant will give its owner an incredibly spectacular appearance. Moreover, the better the care for him, the more effective his appearance will be.
The plant is decorated with large leaf plates of a dark color, on which small spots of a pale red, pink or yellow hue flaunt. They seem to be drawn by an invisible artist. If you want to decorate your house with a pseudo-erantemum, then you should take into account that he needs systematic anti-aging procedures, and he is also quite demanding and capricious.
The flowering plant genus Pseuderanthemum is part of the Acanthus family. In everyday life, this plant is often called pseudo-erantemum, and this name is also found in some literature. However, this name is incorrect, but despite this, it has already managed to firmly gain a foothold in the Russian language.
Features of the pseudo-erantemum
An evergreen shrub or pseudoerantemum shrub native to Polynesia. It combines both beautiful foliage and the ability to bloom effectively. Experts attribute such a shrub to the most beautiful indoor decorative deciduous crops. The bush is quite large, spectacular and looks unusual.
The average height of this plant is from 0.8 to 1 m. The annual growth of the bush is from 10 to 15 centimeters. In home culture, its flowering is extremely rare. But if it does bloom, then delicate flowers of amazing beauty will form on its branches, which seem to be made of porcelain. However, even a non-blooming pseudo-erantemum looks quite impressive, thanks to its dark foliage, strewn with bright spots. The length of the plates is about 15 centimeters. They have an oval shape, with a pointed tip at the top.
The formation of inflorescences is observed on the tops of the branches. Rare small spike-shaped inflorescences include simple tubular flowers, the petals of which are highly dense, as if they were made of plastic or porcelain. The flowers are star-shaped and outwardly resemble large lilac flowers. However, if you look at them up close, you can identify a lot of similarities with the spectacular flowers of orchids.
The color of the inflorescences can be pink, white and purple. At the same time, all colors are soft, muted and delicate. Most often, the color of flowers is a watercolor shade with soft smooth transitions.
Caring for pseudo-erantemum at home
With the cultivation of a pseudo-erantemum in indoor conditions, only a florist with extensive experience can cope. Such a plant is distinguished by its capricious character and high exactingness. Since its homeland is the tropics, it is necessary to create appropriate conditions for growth for it.
This shrub grows well in terrariums and florariums, as well as in greenhouses with other "capricious" tropical plants. At home, it will grow and develop normally only with careful care. This fast-growing plant, plus everything, is prone to stretching, which can lead to rapid exposing of the branches. Also, the pseudo-erantemum loses its decorative effect over the years. That is why he requires close attention from the florist. When purchasing such a culture, you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to systematically carry out cuttings, as well as devote a lot of time and effort to it.
For such a shrub, it is recommended to choose a sunny place, as it needs a lot of light. However, the lighting should be diffused, while the bush must be protected from direct sunlight. The fact is that they reduce the decorativeness of the foliage, and also leave burns on its surface. The most optimal illumination for a given plant is on a west and east orientation window. At the same time, it can also be placed on the south window, but the pot is installed farther from the glass. You can also install a diffusing screen on the window. Inside the room, the bush can only be placed in a well-lit place, not far from a large panoramic window.
In winter, it is especially difficult to provide the pseudo-erantemum with the proper level of lighting. Only with a sufficient amount of light in winter will it not lose its highly decorative appearance, and its exotic pattern on the foliage will remain as bright. If the bush grows in an ordinary living room, then it is recommended to use special phytolamps or fluorescent lamps for additional lighting. It should be borne in mind that the plant needs to create the same level of lighting as in the summer. The main thing is not to overdo it. If in the winter months the lighting is more intense than in the summer, then this can lead to a halt in the development of the bush and to the loss of its characteristic color. So, instead of a purple or dark green color, the leaves become deep red.
This plant is distinguished by its high thermophilicity. Whether in winter or summer, the room should not be colder than 15 degrees. Moreover, a special danger for him is the hypothermia of the earthen coma. If the pot with a bush is on a cold windowsill or on another cold surface (for example, on a stone floor), then be sure to provide the plant with a warming stand for autumn and winter.
The optimum air temperature throughout the year is 22-25 degrees. In the autumn-winter period, it is permissible to lower the air temperature to 20 degrees, while it is undesirable for the room to be colder. And the plant can be harmed by being close to a working heater, sudden temperature changes due to a draft, as well as the usual ventilation of the room. The greatest harm to the bush can be caused by a cold draft in the autumn-winter period, which can cause partial flying around the foliage.
Since the plant has lush foliage, it promotes intense moisture evaporation. That is why pseudoerantemum is a moisture-loving plant. Like many other indoor plants native to the tropics, this shrub needs abundant and frequent moisture in the substrate. You can determine that the plant needs watering by the upper layer of the substrate: if it is well dried, then the shrub needs to be watered.
As a rule, the plant is watered with the same frequency and abundance throughout the year. Especially if the air temperature in the room is almost the same throughout the year. The bush can suffer from regular stagnation of liquid in the substrate, while a single waterlogging does not harm it. However, the greatest danger for him is the complete overdrying of the earthen coma. Even if the clod of earth dries up only up to half the height of the pot, this can cause partial flying of the leaves.
Throughout the year, it is recommended to regularly monitor the condition of the plant and, if necessary, correct the care program. It should also be borne in mind that with excessively abundant substrate moisture in combination with a relatively low air temperature, rot may appear on the base of the leaf plates and shoots, and this can also cause damage to the root system. Also, the shrub can suffer from frequent, but too scanty watering. In this regard, the florist must independently choose the watering mode that is suitable for a particular plant.
Indoor pseudo-erantemum needs high air humidity. If the air in the room is dry, then because of this, the tips of the leaf plates dry out, and the plant loses its decorative effect. It is especially important to keep an eye on humidity levels during the winter months. At this time, the plant is extremely difficult to tolerate when the humidity level in the room is less than 75 percent.
Popular ways to increase air humidity:
- Place the plant in the room where the air humidity is always high.
- Using household humidifiers. Instead, you can use a pallet filled with wet sphagnum or expanded clay.
In addition to the fact that the humidity in the room should be high, the bush also needs to be regularly and quite often moistened with clean water from a spray bottle. Also, this plant reacts very well to a regular warm shower, and also to systematic wiping of leaf plates with a damp soft cloth or sponge.
Both to moisturize the plant itself and the substrate in the pot, you should use high-quality soft water, the temperature of which should be close to room temperature. For these procedures, it is strictly forbidden to use cold water even when the room becomes relatively cool. It is recommended to pass the water with which the plant is sprayed through a filter.
Such a shrub does not need a constant supply of nutrients, so fertilizers are rarely applied to the substrate. Top dressing is carried out only in the spring and summer. Moreover, if a standard dosage is used, then the plant is fed once every 20–30 days, and when ½ part of the recommended dose is added to the soil mixture, the procedure is carried out 1 time in 15–20 days.
It is very important to choose the right fertilizer. The mineral complex should be distinguished by a high potassium content, since if the plant lacks it, this will lead to a partial loss of the color of the leaf plates. But a large amount of nitrogen will negatively affect the condition of the bush. You can choose a classic mineral complex for decorative deciduous crops, while be sure to study the manufacturer's recommendations, which should indicate whether this product is suitable for pseudo-erantemum. If possible, you can also feed the pseudoerantemum with organic fertilizers. They can be used to sprinkle the surface of the substrate in the pot as mulch, and an aqueous solution (for example, rotted manure) is also suitable.
Over the years, as the shoots grow, the plant may begin to throw off the lower leaf plates. Because of this, the base of the branches is noticeably bare. Remember that such a shrub is very fast growing, and if you do not cut it, then after a very short time instead of a compact bush you will see a shrub more than 100 cm high.To the plant does not stretch, you need to provide it with regular forming pruning. In this case, you must try to make the bush actively branch. Formation consists in pinching the tops of young branches and in shortening too long old stems.
As a rule, the lateral shoots of the pseudoerantemum grow straight up. To improve its appearance, it is recommended to carefully bend the shoots and fix them with sisal or a flexible cord by tying them to a flower pot.
If the shrub has irrevocably lost its attractiveness, then experienced flower growers recommend conducting a rejuvenating procedure. Cut a few shoots from an aged bush and use them as cuttings. When the segments take root, the old bush is thrown away, and they are put in its place. Remember that this crop will not recover from cardinal pruning.
This plant must be replanted every year, since not only the stems, but also the root system differ in its rapid growth. When replanting an adult shrub, you should carry out a slight shortening of its roots, which will help to restrain their growth. The fact is that it is simply unrealistic to use a larger pot for each transplant.
The beginning of the spring period is best suited for this procedure. While the bush is young, its old pot is replaced with a new one, which should be a couple of times larger in diameter. If the bush is already an adult, then you should also try to increase the size of the container used for planting each time. If the root system is too crowded, it will lead to flying around all the foliage.
The soil mixture should be light, loose, slightly acidic and well-drained, prepared on the basis of deciduous soil. Do not forget to make a good drainage layer at the bottom of the pot during transplanting. It will protect the plant from stagnation of liquid in the soil mixture, as well as from the appearance of rot on the root system.
Indoor flowers / Pseudoerantemum / Transplant, care,
For propagation of indoor pseudo-erantemum, cuttings are used. Their harvesting is carried out in the spring-summer period and young shoots are used for this. Moreover, the younger the bush itself and its stems, the better the cutting will take root. The length of the segment is from 10 to 15 centimeters. It should have 2 or 3 internodes, while cutting off the shoot at an oblique angle.
For rooting, the cutting is planted in a substrate of sand and peat, and on top it is covered with a transparent cap or film. He must be kept in a warm place (22-24 degrees). At the same time, when rooting in a glass of water, the cutting should be in a place where it cannot be colder than 25 degrees. Rooted segments are planted in two or three pieces in one pot. After a few weeks, in the grown bushes, pinching of the tops of the shoots is carried out to improve branching.
Pseudorantemum dark crimson: transplant + planting rooted cuttings
If you take care of your home pseudo-erantemum incorrectly, this will lead to the loss of its decorative effect, and can also cause the appearance of pests that prefer low air humidity. Most often, pests such as spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies and mealybugs settle on the bush. That is why it is recommended to regularly check the foliage for pests. To get rid of the pests that have appeared, the leaf plates are moistened with cold water, they are washed, and treatment with an insecticidal agent is also required. If the bush grows in a greenhouse, then as a preventive measure for the appearance of pests and diseases, it is kept for a couple of minutes every few weeks under an ultraviolet lamp.
With the plant, problems can arise such as:
- Flying around foliage... Stagnant water in the substrate or drying it out, cold draft, etc.
- The tops of the leaf plates dry out... Direct rays of the sun fall on the bush or there is low air humidity in the room.
- There are brown spots on the foliage... The lighting is too intense.
- Leaves turn yellow... Very low air humidity or stagnant water in the roots.
Types of pseudo-erantemum with a photo
Approximately 120 species of pseudoerantemum have been found and described in the wild. However, only 4 species are cultivated at home. For a long time, confusion has been observed in the botanical classification of this shrub. Today he is a representative of the Acanthus family. However, not so long ago he was part of the Erantemum genus, which led to regular confusion with other plants. After the pseudo-erantemum was transferred to the Acanthus family and separated into a separate genus, they became less confused.
Pseudoerantemum Carruthers (Pseuderanthemum carruthersii)
This species used to be quite widely known. Today it is still sold under the name Pseuderanthemum atropurpureum. This basic look is the most popular in indoor culture. In height, such a spectacular plant can reach about 100 cm (maybe a little higher).
A distinctive feature of this shrub is its large, broad-ovate leaf plates, the apex of which is pointed. They are about 10 centimeters wide and up to 15 centimeters long. Their surface is covered with exotic beautiful patterns. The entire foliage has thin petioles, its base color is dark green or dark purple, which is very similar to the ink shade. The surface of the plates is unevenly covered with asymmetric specks of a whitish, yellow, pink or red hue. In order for the color of the leaf plates and the pattern to be the most vivid, the shrub requires a lot of sunlight.
Pseudoerantemum longifolium (Pseuderanthemum longifolium)
Not so long ago, this species was called Pseuderanthemum sinuatum. This compact plant has an average height of about 50 centimeters. The length of the leaf plates is about 15 centimeters, while their width is only 20 mm. In this regard, the leaves are similar in shape to the foliage of cereals or bulbous crops. There are spectacular small notches on the edge of the sheet plates. Their front side is painted in a greenish-olive shade, and the back side is painted in a pale red. During flowering, asymmetrical beautiful flowers are formed on the bush. At the same time, specks of a purple hue flaunt on one of the petals of each flower.
Pseudoerantemum bristly-calyx (Pseuderanthemum seticalyx)
This evergreen shrub is decorated with graceful egg-shaped leaf plates, which are about 10 centimeters long. The leaves are located opposite. At the moment of disclosure, there is pubescence on the foliage, but after a while it becomes smooth. This species differs from others in that it has more lush paniculate inflorescences. At the same time, large snow-white flowers reach about 10 centimeters in diameter. However, this species lacks a beautiful pattern on foliage.
Pseudoerantemum Kew (Pseuderanthemum kewense)
Such a shrub is decorated with spectacular egg-shaped leaf plates with a pointed top, which are painted in a purple or chocolate shade. In this case, the seamy surface of the leaves is painted greenish. This species blooms very, very rarely at home.
PSEUDERANTEMUM blossomed !!! Pseuderanthemum. Dominican Republic.
Caring for medinilla at home
Location and lighting
Growing medinilla requires bright lighting, but the leaves should be hidden from direct, scalding sunlight. If there is not enough light for the plant, then it will either not bloom, or discard the existing flowers and buds. If the room does not have the necessary lighting, then you will need to use special phytolamps or fluorescent lamps.
The ideal location for the plant is west or east windows. A southern room will work as well, but it is important to shade the sun's rays.
The temperature in the plant room must be maintained regularly at a high level. This is due to its place of origin (rainforest). The air temperature should not drop below 20-25 degrees.
In the winter months from December to January, medinilla will be dormant, so the temperature can be reduced to 16 degrees. The plant does not tolerate temperature changes and drafts. It also cannot be placed next to heating devices.
Medinilla needs regular, moderate watering during growth and flowering. The soil should not dry out completely. As soon as the top layer of the substrate dries up, you can water the plant. In autumn and winter, when the plant is at rest, watering is reduced. The soil should have time to dry out at a level of 2-3 cm from the surface. In January and February, watering is reduced even more. Watering should be done with clean, settled water at room temperature or slightly higher.
Medinilla comes from humid and hot tropical forests, so the humidity of the surrounding air should not fall below 75%. To do this, several times a day, the leaves of the plant are sprayed with warm, settled water, avoiding contact with the flowers.
It will be useful to place a pot with a plant in a pallet with wet sand or expanded clay. For additional humidification, you can use a container of water placed next to the plant or a special air humidifier. From dry air, the leaves of medinilla become smaller, lose their decorative effect, and the plant itself becomes unstable to the effects of pests and diseases.
Under natural conditions, medinilla is an epiphytic plant and is found on the stems and trunks of other shrubs and trees. You don't need too much mixture for planting a plant in a pot. However, it should be loose, fertile, slightly acidic.
The optimal soil composition for medinilla consists of leafy soil, sod land, sand, peat and humus in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1: 1. In specialized flower shops, ready-made mixtures for epiphytes are sold, you can use them. Placement of a good drainage layer at the bottom of the pot is essential. This will prevent moisture from stagnating, and the root system will not suffer from rot.
Top dressing and fertilizers
Medinilla needs regular feeding with fertilizer for decorative flowering plants. You need to apply top dressing once every 10 days. In summer, the plant can be fed with organic fertilizer, but no more than 3 times. With the onset of autumn and until spring, during the dormant period, medinilla does not need to be fed.
A young actively growing medinilla is transplanted annually, but an adult plant needs to be transplanted only once every 2-3 years. When transplanting, the medinilla is shaped and the crown is formed.
Pruning and hygiene
A large area of leaves accumulates indoor dust, so an important procedure is to regularly wipe them with a damp soft cloth. The plant loves a warm leaf shower, but it is important to avoid getting moisture on the flowers and the ground. After the medinilla fades, it is cut off.
Conditions for a pseudo-erantemum
To tame a shrub from sunny Oceania, it is worth figuring out in what conditions it will be comfortable. Since the plant is tropical, heat, light and humidity are decisive.
Having studied the information about the requirements for caring for the pseudo-erantemum at home, the florist will receive a gorgeous bush a few months after the rooting of the cuttings.
Location and lighting
Do not count on the fact that the pseudo-erantemum, as a resident of the equatorial zone, loves heat and maximum sun most of all. When there is too much light - the sun's rays in the midday heat fall on the leaves of the plant - even a heat-loving exotic is uncomfortable. The shadow doesn't fit either. The direct flow of the sun, as well as the lack of light, will surely affect the decorative effect of the pseudo-erantemum: the leaves will fade or fade, and you should generally forget about flowering.
Therefore, the optimal position is considered:
- window sill on the east side or next to it
- windows in the west or near the windowsill
- farther from the south window - closer to the middle of the room, and sometimes even in the back.
If the apartment has only a northern exit to the light, then it is important to take into account the floor and the view outside the window. The higher the apartment, the more light is delivered to the flowers. Trees or buildings that limit lighting will make exotic living uncomfortable. In northern rooms, ornamental plants are helped by lighting, especially in winter.
The average annual 22 degrees will quite suit a non-capricious pseudo-erantemum: in the summer it is 4-5 higher, and in the winter it is as much lower.
Important! Lowering the temperature to 15 is dangerous, and to 13 and below - destructive. It would seem a very insignificant difference. But in this matter, the pseudo-erantemum is really capricious.
In winter, when ventilating the room, the flower is placed away from the window. In the off-season, they are protected from drafts. And sharp jumps in temperature are dangerous at any time of the year.
Pseudorantemum is grateful to the owner for regular spraying all year round. In summer, water treatments are diversified by a shower under a soft stream of room temperature. In winter, a soft cloth, a sponge, a sponge, a cotton pad - no matter what, soaked in warm water, wash off the dust from the sheet plates, not forgetting to wipe the back of the sheet.
If in winter heating radiators dry the air so much that there is little spraying, bottles with water are placed next to the radiator, and containers with water and fountains are placed near the bush. The composition of indoor plants always improves the microclimate by making the air more humid. It's good for people. And the pseudo-erantemum will definitely be more comfortable in the company of other flowers.
There are almost no fundamental requirements for the substrate. The universal soil is diluted with sand, vermiculite or perlite, neutral coconut and coal are added. Additives give looseness and lightness necessary for a pseudo-erantemum. Exot loves moisture and breathable substrates. Compost or humus will provide nutritional value.
Drainage - an obligatory layer - 4 cm in small containers. The older the bush, the larger the expanded clay pillow with each transplant.
If the conditions of detention described above created the pseudo-erantemum, then leaving will not seem difficult. The main thing is just not to forget about the flower, checking the moisture content of the soil, the state of the foliage and supplying power on time.
Do not allow the flower itself to "scream" about the need for watering with sagging leaves. The intervals between humidification in winter and summer are different. In hot weather, water is often watered, in winter - less often. Check the timing of watering on the upper soil layer. As soon as the 3-centimeter layer has dried, pseudo-erantemum is immediately given to drink. You cannot overdo it, and do not forget to drain the water from the pallet half an hour after serving.
Pseudoerantemum, due to a rapid increase in growth, must be fed the entire season of active growing season. For most plants, this is April-October. Overdose is very dangerous, so you need to know the instructions by heart.
To replenish nutritional value, use:
- organic blends
- mineral fertilizers marked "for decorative leaf".
Minimum nitrogen and maximum potassium. Preference is for long-playing dressings.
To make the bush grow sprawling, lush, pinch the tops of the stems. Pseudoerantemum is very tolerant to crown formation. Branches that are too elongated or growing inward are cut for rooting. A tenacious plant is able to grow new shoots even with a large percentage of green mass removal, but it is better not to risk it, cutting off gradually.
The first five-year plan of the pseudo-erantemum is transplanted annually. Their roots are not very large - even an adult bush will not need huge containers. But the mass of powerful shoots and large leaves requires stability - too small pots will not provide it.
The transplant is carried out at the end of winter. Fresh soil, slightly larger compared to the previous pot - and the pseudo-erantemum is stimulated for a new growing season.
Adult bushes are taken out of the container less often - after 3 years. But in these cases, top dressing according to the season is especially important, since the earth becomes impoverished already a couple of months after the renewal. In large pots with very mature plants, 3-5 cm of the substrate are removed annually, replacing it with a nutritious fresh one.