Jalapeño Skin Cracking: What Is Corking On Jalapeño Peppers
By: Amy Grant
Unblemished home-grown produce is often hard to find, but some marring is not necessarily an indication that the fruit or veggie is not usable. Take jalapeños, for example. Some minor jalapeño skin cracking is a common sight on these peppers and is called jalapeño corking. What exactly is corking on jalapeño peppers and does it affect the quality in any way?
What is Corking?
Corking on jalapeño peppers appears as scaring or minor striations on the surface of the pepper skin. When you see jalapeño skin cracking in this manner, it simply means that it needs to stretch to accommodate the rapid growth of the pepper. Sudden rains or any other abundance of water (soaker hoses) combined with plenty of sun will cause the pepper to go on a growth spurt, resulting in corking. This corking process occurs in many types of hot peppers, but not in sweet pepper varieties.
Jalapeño Corking Information
Jalapeños that have corked are not often seen in the American supermarket. This slight blemish is seen as a detriment to the growers here and peppers that have corked are more likely processed into canned foods where the defect is unnoticed. Additionally, the skin of a corked jalapeño may be slightly thicker, which really has no bearing on its quality at all.
In other parts of the world and to the true pepper aficionado, slight jalapeño skin cracking is actually a desirable quality and may even garner a higher price than its unmarked siblings.
A great indicator for harvesting jalapeños is to go by the harvest by date listed on pepper seed packets. The optimum picking date will be given in a range, since different varieties of peppers are planted at various times of the year as well as to accommodate variations in USDA growing zones. Most ranges for hot peppers are between 75 and 90 days after planting.
Corking, however, is a great gauge as to when to harvest your jalapeño peppers. Once the peppers near maturation and the skin begins to show these stress marks (corking), keep a close eye on them. Harvest the peppers before the skin splits through and you will be sure to have pulled your peppers at their peak of ripeness.
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Harvesting Jalapeno Peppers
In 3 - 4 month's time, you'll be ready to pick your jalapeno peppers. Ripe jalapenos are a 4 - 6 inches long, fat, firm, and develop a bright sheen.
They will turn a bright green, then begin to darken to a deeper green, then to black, and then to red. Jalapenos are ready to be picked when they are firm and bright green, but you can leave them on the plant all the way until they turn red.
Growing peppers can be a lot of fun but beware, peppers will eventually fall off the plant if you leave them for too long, which will increase the chance of rotting.
Red jalapeno peppers are sweeter to the taste and not quite as hot, though they absolutely retain their jalapeno heat and flavor.
It is all a matter of personal taste. If you plan to dry your peppers, leave them on until they are red.
When peppers are done growing they will pull off the plant very easily. If they don't come off easily they are still growing. Sometimes tiny brown lines will form on the peppers.
These are growth lines and indicate the pepper is done growing. If these lines are forming, pick the pepper regardless of it's size.
If for any reason a pepper is picked before it is ripe, you can place it on a south-facing windowsill until it is bright green and ripe.
The more peppers you pick the more will harvest so pick peppers often as soon as they are ripe to continue your harvest growing.
No matter what type of pepper, they do not like weather that is too cold. If there is fear of frost, you can cover it at night and uncover it in the morning.
Weather.com has a garden area that tells you the risk of frost and the freeze risk. Do not go by frost risk, but instead go by freeze risk.
If there is a chance of freezing, the plants will not survive.
I’d suggest picking every pepper prior to any freeze risk or prior to it getting around 35 degrees at night. If the temperature drops lower than this the plant will die and the peppers will shrivel and die.
Tomatoes are only slightly different. Most of the tomatoes can still be picked even after the plant has died. Then they can finish ripening on the window sill in the sun.
Store the peppers in a clear bag in your refrigerator's crisper drawer for up to two weeks.
If you aren't able to eat your peppers within two weeks, there are many ways you can preserve them for continued use all year long.
Quick Care GuideGrowing jalapenos is pretty easy and very rewarding. Source: EasyPickle
|Common Name(s)||Jalapeño, huachinango pepper, chile gordo, chipotle pepper, cuaresmeno|
|Scientific Name||Capsicum annuum ‘Jalapeño’|
|Days to Harvest||70-85 days|
|Water:||Even, consistent moisture, up to 1” per week|
|Soil||Well-drained, loamy soils with lots of organic matter|
|Fertilizer||Varies – high N initially, higher PK for fruit production|
|Pests||Aphids, thrips, armyworm, leafroller, pepper weevil, corn earworm, flea beetle, leafminer, spider mite|
|Diseases||Damping off, fusarium wilt, southern blight, phytophthora blight, bacterial spot, cucumber mosaic virus|
How to grow jalapeños
Growing jalapeños will provide a leafy and attractive plant, full of red and green peppers, that makes it an interesting addition to any garden area. Jalapeño pepper plants will thrive if you provide a few critical conditions:
- Jalapeño plants dislike the cold so wait until outdoor temperatures stay between 65 at night and 75 to 85 during the day to ensure that they do not fail.
- You can start plants from seed indoors about 8 to 12 weeks before transplanting them outdoors. You can also purchase started plants from your local garden center.
- Plant in an area that gets sunlight most of the day. Jalapeños thrive on light.
- Plant in a well-draining potting mix that contains plenty of organic material.
- Space plants 14 to 16 inches apart to allow good air circulation. This measure will help to prevent mold and fungus growth on plants.
- Keep the soil moist but not wet. Jalapeño plants can tolerate some drought, but the plant will produce more peppers if moisture is available.
- Use a plant cage or other support when pepper yield becomes heavy.
How To Grow Jalapenos
by Matt Gibson
In Mexico alone, more than 40,000 acres of land are used solely for the cultivation of jalapenos, which are a staple of the nation’s cuisine. And when it comes to flavor, jalapeños are one of the best options for chefs and food lovers—so it’s no wonder gardeners and commercial growers love them.
Coming in at anywhere between 2,500 and 10,000 Scoville units, which measure the intensity of the spicy heat of some foods, the jalapeno is nowhere near as hot as the world’s hottest peppers. Some of those can reach 300,000 Scoville units, but the jalapeño still brings the heat and is considered a mild to moderately spicy pepper. Jalapenos that are on the higher side of that heat range have been known to bring a tear to a grown man’s eye in restaurants and home kitchens around the world.
In terms of nutrition, the jalapeno is a great source of vitamin A, B1, B2, B3, B6, C and K. The fiery pepper is also nutritionally valuable because it’s full of dietary fiber, potassium, copper, manganese, iron, and phosphorus. Its nutrient density rating clocks in quite high, at 10.5 on a scale where anything above one rates as a nutrient-rich food. Although the peppers are certainly chock-full of lots of nutritious stuff, you might want to avoid overindulgence, as they are also very high in natural sugars.
Still, the jalapeno is a great way to spice up a meal, and it’s very simple to grow them yourself, especially if you live in a hot, dry area. Growing jalapenos indoors is also quite a simple process—as long as you use a nutrient-rich soil while providing lots of sunlight and water. Here’s all you need to know in order to become a pro at growing and harvesting your own jalapeno peppers.
Growing Conditions For Jalapenos
Jalapenos need heat to thrive and require a temperature of at least 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit in order to germinate. The element of heat is the most critical component of creating the perfect environment for growing jalapenos. If the temperature is not warm enough, the seedlings will not sprout, or your transplants will not make it long once outside. However, if the temperature in your area is consistently over 90 degrees Fahrenheit, your pepper plants will flourish, and you will have an abundance of growth. Also, the hotter the temperature, the hotter the batch of Jalapenos tends to be, so keep your climate in mind when deciding how many to add to a recipe.
How To Plant Jalapenos
Start your jalapeno seeds indoors, in pots or a propagator, around six weeks before the last frost experts are predicting for your area this year. Depending on your location, this interval should fall anywhere from January to March.
Fill containers three quarters of the way with a seed-starting mix, and toss in one to three seeds, then cover the seeds with a small layer of soil. To avoid fungus and rot, make sure there is plenty of aeration.
It should take three to five weeks for germination to begin. Use larger pots to replant your seedlings after they are at least two inches tall or have four or more leaves. Toughen your seedlings up to prepare them for the wind they’ll encounter outdoors by putt them in the way of a fan that will blow them around a bit. Keep them indoors for two more weeks before moving them outside.
When you make the move, place your plants in two- to five-gallon pots or directly into the ground, about 16 to 18 inches away from each other. Make sure to plant your jalapeños in a location that will get a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight per day.
Care of Jalapenos
Fertilize the plants each week during the early stages of development and each month thereafter. Jalapenos like a soil that is high in sand and rich in organic materials. About an inch of water is needed each week to keep the plants properly hydrated, but make sure there is ample drainage in the pepper garden. Waterlogged soil will damage your plants.
Garden Pests and Diseases of Jalapenos
Plant your peppers and potatoes at the far ends of your vegetable garden, far away from each other’s reach. You’ll want to do this because potato bugs are fond of alternating between potato plants and jalapenos for a bit of variety in their diet.
Other pests that commonly plague jalapeños include the pepper weevil, aphids, flea beetles, worms, and caterpillars. Spray the pepper plants down with neem oil to get rid of most pests, and check the plants daily to pull off any worms or caterpillars that happen to be dining on your precious peppers.
Carefully pinch the peppers off the vine at the stem when they are solid-colored and firm, but do it before they change color. They will stay fresh for three to five weeks if stored at a temperature of 45 degrees Fahrenheit. The peppers themselves should be about two and a half to three inches long when they are ready to be plucked off the vine.
Other Hot Pepper Varieties to Grow in Your Home Garden
Try adding a few other hot peppers to your garden so that you will have a variety of options to spice up your meal right out of your garden! The cayenne pepper is also easy to grow in warm climates and of many uses in the kitchen. You may also consider planting habanero peppers, serrano peppers, tabasco peppers, or even ghost peppers (if you think you have what it takes to eat them, that is).
Why jalapenos? Well, if you can stand moderate heat, the flavor really goes well with a lot of different dishes. The ubiquitous taste of chipotle is simply that of smoke-dried jalapeño, for example. Many different types of food call for a little extra kick, and though jalapeños are not nearly the hottest pepper in the world, they are plenty hot enough for most spicy food lovers. Jalapenos are great to stuff for parties, or as an ingredient in a homemade salsa that you could give away jars of as gifts. There are plenty of reasons to grow them, especially now that you have the know-how.
Growing Jalapeno Peppers
- For best results, start seeds indoors. You can find jalapeno pepper seeds at your local nursery or online.
- Grow your jalapeno peppers indoors and transplant them outdoors after 8-12 weeks.
- While indoors, keep the jalapeno seedlings moist, but do not over water them. Jalapeno pepper seeds germinate within 10-14 days.
- Keep them warm and in a sunny place such as a a windowsill that’s facing the South side.
- Once all danger of spring frost has passed, you may transplant your seedlings outdoors in the garden or in a pot.
- Choose a sunny spot as peppers love the sun and grow best when they’re warm.
- Mix in mushroom compost or any other organic matter into your potting soil. Jalapeno pepper plants like good, fertile soil, and will not grow well if the soil isn’t of good quality.
- Space each plant about 14-16 inches apart and 2-3 feet apart in between rows.
- The plants will eventually grow to about 3 feet in height!
- Jalapenos love water, so make sure to keep the soil moist at all times. Keep in mind though, that you also don’t want to over water as you may inundate the plant which can cause root rot.
- Water every other day or every third day depending on the weather.
- Give your jalapeno plant a good fertilizer and keep it free of any weeds.
- In 3 to 4 months, your jalapeno peppers should be ripe and ready to pick!
- You’ll know they’re ready for harvest once they reach 4-6 inches in height, they’re firm, and have a bright green sheen.
- You can also leave them on the plant until they turn red – this will make them hotter, and turn them into a type of chili pepper.
Jalapeno Pepper Problems:
- Jalapeno pepper plants are part of the nightshade family, like tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes. Therefore, they’re vulnerable to similar diseases and pest problems.
- To keep disease at bay, be sure to keep the area free of weeds and other debris.
- Additionally, make sure to thoroughly water your jalapeno pepper plants.
- Be wary of aphids, flea beetles, and cutworms. Use a natural insecticide to get rid of the aforementioned pests, and always keep an eye out on your plants.
- If you see worms or caterpillars, pick them off the plants immediately.
- To ensure that your plants stay healthy, check them daily for pests.
Jalapeno Pepper Information:
- 1 History and etymology
- 2 Cultivation
- 2.1 Hybrids and sub-cultivars
- 2.2 Sweet hybrids
- 3 Eating characteristics
- 3.1 Nutrients
- 3.2 Scoville heat units
- 3.3 Serving methods
- 3.4 Culinary concerns
- 4 In culture
- 5 Gallery
- 6 See also
- 7 References
- 8 External links
The jalapeño is variously named huachinango, for the ripe red jalapeño, and chile gordo (meaning "fat chili pepper") also known as cuaresmeño. 
The name jalapeño is Spanish for "from Xalapa" (also spelled Jalapa), the capital city of Veracruz, Mexico, where the pepper was traditionally cultivated.  The name Xalapa is itself of Nahuatl origin, formed from roots xālli [ˈʃaːlːi] "sand" and āpan [ˈaːpan] "water place".
Genetic analysis of Capsicum annum places jalapeños as a distinct genetic clade with no close sisters that are not directly derived from jalapeños.  Jalapeños were in use by the Aztecs prior to the Spanish conquest Bernardino de Sahagún in the Florentine Codex writes of Aztec markets selling chipotles (smoked jalapeños) and mole made from chipotles, besides the sale of fresh chilies.  The use of peppers in the Americas dates back thousands of years, including the practice of smoking some varieties of peppers in order to preserve them further well preserved samples and genetic testing would be needed to determine the usage and existence of the jalapeño clade and pod type into the past. 
In 1999, roughly 43,000 hectares (107,000 acres) of land in Mexico was dedicated to jalapeño production as of 2011 [update] , that had decreased to 41,000 hectares (101,000 acres). Jalapeños account for thirty percent of Mexico's chili production, and while the total land area used for cultivation has decreased, there has been a 1.5% increase in volume yield per year in Mexico due to increasing irrigation, use of greenhouses, better equipment, knowledge, and improved techniques. Because of this, in 2009, 619,000 tons of jalapeños were produced with 42% of the crop coming from Chihuahua, 12.9% from Sinaloa, 6.6% from Jalisco, and 6.3% from Michoacán.  La Costeña controls about 60% of the world market and, according to company published figures, exports 16% of the peppers that Mexico produces, an 80% share of the 20% that Mexico exports in total. The US imports 98% of La Costeña's exports. 
According to the USDA, starting since 2010, California produces the most jalapeños followed by New Mexico and Texas, for a total of 209,800 tonnes (462.5 million pounds) of peppers in 2014.   It is difficult to get accurate statistics on chilies and specific chilies as growers are not fond of keeping and sharing such data and reporting agencies often lump all green chilies together, or all hot chilies, with no separation of pod type.  In New Mexico in 2002 the crop of jalapeños were worth $3 million at the farm gate and $20 million with processing. 
China, Peru, Spain, and India are also producers of commercial chilies, including jalapeños. 
Jalapeños are a pod type of Capsicum annuum. The growing period is 70–80 days. When mature, the plant stands 70–90 cm (2 ft 4 in–2 ft 11 in) tall. Typically, a plant produces 25 to 35 pods. During a growing period, a plant will be picked multiple times. As the growing season ends, the peppers turn red, as seen in Sriracha sauce. Jalapeños thrive in a number of soil types and temperatures, though they prefer warmer climates, provided they have adequate water. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 29 °C (84 °F), with degradation of germination seen above 30 °C (86 °F) and little to no germination occurring at 40 °C (104 °F) at 29 °C (84 °F) the time to 50% germination rate depends on cultivar and seed lot but was tested as being between 4 and 5 days, which is shorter than Cayenne.  A pH of 4.5 to 7.0 is preferred for growing jalapeños, and well-drained soil is essential for healthy plants. Jalapeños need at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day.  Experiments show that unlike bell peppers at least 7.5 millimolar (mM) nitrogen is needed for optimal pod production, and 15 to 22 mM nitrogen produces the best result: the plant produces both more leaves and more pods, rather than just more leaves.  Once picked, individual peppers may turn to red of their own accord. The peppers can be eaten green or red. Though usually grown as an annual they are perennial and if protected from frost can produce during multiple years, as with all Capsicum annuum.
Jalapeños are subject to root rot and foliar blight, both often caused by Phytophthora capsici over-watering worsens the condition as the fungus grows best in warm wet environments. Crop rotation can help, and resistant strains of jalapeño, such as the NuMex Vaquero and TAM Mild Jalapeño, have been and are being bred as this is of major commercial impact throughout the world.   As jalapeños are a cultivar, the diseases are common to Capsicum annuum: Verticillium wilt, Cercospora capsici, Powdery mildew, Colletotrichum capsici (Ripe Rot), Erwinia carotovora (Soft Rot), Beet curly top virus, Tospovirus (Tomato spotted wilt virus), Pepper mottle virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, Pepper Geminiviridae, and Root-knot nematode being among the major commercially important diseases.   
After harvest, if jalapeños are stored at 7.5 °C (45.5 °F) they have a shelf life of up to 3–5 weeks. Jalapeños produce 0.1-0.2 µl/kg⋅h of ethylene, very low for chilies, and do not respond to ethylene treatment. Holding jalapeños at 20-25 °C and high humidity can be used to complete the ripening of picked jalapeños. A hot water dip of 55 °C (131 °F) for 4 minutes is used to kill off molds that may exist on the picked peppers without damaging them.  The majority of jalapeños are wet processed, canned, or pickled on harvesting for use in mixes, prepared food products, and salsas. 
Hybrids and sub-cultivars Edit
There are a wide variety of breeds for consumer and commercial use of jalapeño plants. The majority fall under one of four categories: F1 hybrids, where the parent plants have been hand-emasculated and cross-bred to produce uniform offspring with hybrid vigor cultivars which are F-11 or F-12 hybrids or later generations where a stable unique population has been developed landraces and F2 hybrids. 
F1 hybrids produce the highest and most uniform yields but cost 25 times the cost of open-pollinated seed, leading to only 2% of the farmland dedicated to jalapeño cultivation in the United States being planted with F1 hybrids.  F2 hybrids often produce similarly to F1 hybrids however, some F1 hybrids are produced via recessive male sterility to eliminate the need to hand-pollinate, reducing the cost to produce the hybrid, but producing a 25% reduction in yield in the F2 generation.  Some notable F1 hybrids are 'Mitla', 'Perfecto', 'Tula', 'Grande' (a hot jalapeño), 'Sayula', 'Senorita', and 'Torreon', most of them being developed and marketed by Petoseed, a brand of Seminis.  
Cultivars are researched and created to promote desirable traits. Common traits selected for are resistance to viruses and other pepper-related diseases, milder peppers, early ripening, more attractive fruit in terms of size, wall thickness, and corking, and higher yields.  The land-grant universities and the Chile Pepper Institute promote the use of cultivars as the most sustainable and environmentally safe disease control method both in terms of economics and long-term environmental perspective.  Notable cultivars include 'Early Jalapeño', 'TAM Mild Jalapeño',  'TAM Mild Jalapeño II',  'TAM Veracruz', the yellow 'TAM Jaloro',  'NuMex Vaquero',  the colorful 'NuMex Piñata',  'TAM Dulcito',  'Waialua',  and 'NuMex Primavera'. 
Sweet hybrids Edit
Sweet hybridized varieties have been created with no "heat", although they retain the look and flavor of a jalapeño. 
A raw jalapeño is 92% water, 6% carbohydrates, 1% protein, and contains negligible fat (table). A 100-gram ( 3 1 ⁄2 oz) reference serving of raw jalapeños provides 120 kilojoules (29 kcal) of food energy, and is a rich source (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) of vitamin C, vitamin B6, and vitamin E, with vitamin K in a moderate amount (table). Other micronutrients are low in content (table).