Muscari: planting and care in the open field, photo, storage after flowering
Many growers are sure that muscari do not need any care at all: they tolerate winter and heat well, reproduce themselves, get sick extremely rarely ... Muscari are really resistant to diseases and pests, and the secret of such a strong plant immunity is ... its toxicity! Only aphids occasionally manage to overcome this protective barrier.
So, our attention to a beautiful flower is still necessary. And this even pleases, because who does not want to feel their involvement in this piercing blue beauty?
- Should you prune your muscari after flowering?
- How and when to feed the plant so that its bulbs overwinter well?
- When should you stop watering your muscari?
Let's figure it out together.
Planting and caring for muscari
- Landing: in the fall, in October.
- Bloom: Spring.
- Lighting: bright sunlight, partial shade.
- The soil: any.
- Watering: if the winter was snowy or the spring was wet, then watering is not needed at all.
- Top dressing: when digging a site, add humus or compost at the rate of 5 kg per m².
- Reproduction: self-seeding and vegetative: separation of babies from the mother's bulb and planting them in the ground.
- Pests: aphids, spider mites.
- Diseases: viruses of yellow onion dwarfism and cucumber mosaic.
Read more about growing muscari below.
Muscari (lat.Muscari), or viper bow, or mouse hyacinth Is a genus of bulbous perennial plants of the Asparagaceae family, although it was previously classified as a Hyacinth or Liliaceae family. There are about 60 species that grow in nature among shrubs, on forest edges and on the mountain slopes of Central and Southern Europe, the Caucasus, Asia Minor, Crimea and the Mediterranean. Muscari flowers are one of the very first spring flowers, often grown for cut. The muscari plant has a pleasant and rather strong aroma. Muscari garden flowers, miniature and graceful, are a decoration of lawns, they are used in flower beds and rock gardens, as well as as curb plants.
Muscari bulbs are ovoid, with light outer scales, 1.5-3.5 cm long and up to 2 cm in diameter.Leaves - basal, linear, up to 17 cm long and up to six pieces - appear in spring, but may reappear in autumn ... Muscari grow up to 30 cm in height. Their peduncle is leafless, the flowers have cylindrical, barrel-shaped or tubular perianths, consisting of six accrete petals, bent along the edge. Color - from white to dark blue, length - about 0.5 cm and the same in diameter. Flowers are collected in dense inflorescences, racemose or apical, up to 8 cm long. The fruit is a winged, three-celled capsule, spherical or heart-shaped, with small wrinkled black seeds, the germination of which lasts only for a year. This genus has two essential advantages: almost all species are decorative and, in addition, muscari are completely unpretentious.
Growing muscari in the garden
Muscari are in great demand in floriculture. They look great both in rock gardens and in decorative garden vases, and undersized varieties are successfully used for borders. Muscari in multi-tiered flower beds are very beautiful, in composition with other spring flowers: against the background of densely growing lilac-blue muscari, islands of taller early-flowering tulips or daffodils look very impressive. The combination of blue muscari with orange hazel grouses is great.
In the photo: Pink muscari
Like all early spring flowers, muscari bloom when there are no leaves on the trees and shrubs, so there will be enough light for them in any case. Muscari have been growing in one place for several years, so plant them next to perennials, which you will not replant every year either. The soil is best loose, fertile and permeable. It is desirable that the site is located on a hill and protected from strong winds.
When to plant
It is better to plant muscari in autumn, before the end of October. They are planted in groups as soon as muscari bulbs, which have been growing in one place for five years or more, are dug up. If you buy them at the store, carefully examine the shoots: they must be healthy. Sometimes in April nurseries sell seedlings of already flowering muscari in boxes, and sellers claim that they can be planted immediately in the ground. Try it.
How to plant
Before planting, inspect the bulbs and remove any darkened or damaged bulbs. Disinfect the bulbs for prophylaxis: first, pickle them for half an hour in a 2% solution of Karbofos, then the same amount in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. The day before planting the muscari, water the prepared wells well, soaking the entire layer of soil through and through. Add river sand to drain each hole before planting. If the bulbs are large, they are immersed in the ground by 7 cm, and the distance between them is 5-10 cm. Small bulbs are buried by 3 cm, and the gap between the bulbs is 2-3 cm.
Caring for muscari is not difficult: this is a training plant for a novice florist. AT watering muscari need only at the very beginning of the growing season, but, as a rule, at this time the soil is still wet after melting snow or spring rains. And the dormant period does not require soil moisture. If there was no snow in the winter, and the spring turned out to be dry, then there is a need for regular watering.
In the photo: Dense plantings of muscari
If the soil on the site is not too fertile, this can be corrected by feeding with organic fertilizers. With humus or compost, you can fertilize the soil in the fall when digging: 5 kilograms of fertilizer are consumed for each square meter. Subject to the regularity of such autumn digging with organic matter, muscari can grow in one area for up to ten years. But then you will have to seat them anyway.
Muscari blooms for a little longer than three weeks, and does not require special care at this time, just loosen the soil slightly after watering, trying not to damage the bulb, remove weeds and remove wilted flowers if they spoil the appearance of your flower bed. If the quality of the flowers has deteriorated over the years, then it is time to transplant the muscari.
We grow hyacinths in the garden - do not confuse these flowers
Vegetative propagation of muscari by separating babies from the mother's bulb is carried out, as a rule, during the autumn digging, somewhere from mid to late October. When to transplant muscari, we already wrote - after 5-6 years of growth in one area, although when it is really time to dig out muscari, the type of your flower bed will tell you. Muscari bulbs are removed from the ground, the babies are separated from the mother's bulb (there can be many, up to 30 pieces) and planted in the manner described above.
In addition to the vegetative method, muscari reproduce well by self-seeding, therefore, in order to prevent uncontrolled growth of the site, it is necessary to cut off the peduncles after flowering, leaving only a few for the seeds to ripen. The collected ripe seeds, capable of sprouting only within a year, are sown into the ground in the fall to a depth of 1-2 cm. Next spring, thin strings of seedlings will let you know that the process of bulb formation has begun. Such a plant will bloom in 2-3 years.
In the photo: Blue Muscari
Pests and diseases
Most often, muscari suffer from the mosaic caused by the yellow dwarf onion virus. Symptoms: green mosaic on the leaves, shortened flower arrow, narrowed leaves and growth inhibition of the diseased specimen. Sometimes the plant becomes infected with the common cucumber mosaic, which is expressed with pale green strokes and spots on the deformed leaves. These viruses are transmitted by aphids and, once in the bulb, remain in it. Therefore, diseased specimens must be dug up and burned so that the infection does not spread to other plants.
There is no cure for viral diseases yet, so fight the carrier - aphids, destroy it as soon as it appears on the plants. The method is simple and has long been known: dilute 2 teaspoons of liquid soap (Gala, Fairey) in two glasses of water and spray the plant with the solution.
Sometimes a spider mite causes trouble for muscari. In the fight against it, use drugs of the avermectin group (Vertimek, Aktofit, Fitoverm) strictly according to the instructions at an air temperature of 18 ºC.
Muscari after flowering
Many growers believe that it is not necessary to take care of muscari at all: they do not get sick, they reproduce themselves, they are winter-hardy enough. But experience teaches that a good result always requires effort. As soon as the muscari have faded, you need to carefully remove the peduncles and feed them with liquid potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, which will help the bulbs to winter well. Reduce watering gradually until the leaves of the plant turn yellow and wither, and once this process is complete, do not water the plant again.
How best to plant daffodils - in detail
Autumn is the time for digging the site and transplanting muscari who have reached the age of five. If your muscari is still too young to divide and transplant, simply remove any yellowed leaves from the area. Young plantings of muscari, especially if they grow on it next to other bulbs, must be mulched with peat for the winter.
In the photo: Pink Muscari
Storing the bulbs
Muscari are perennial plants, moreover, they can grow in one place for up to ten years in a row. But if for any reason you decide to dig up the bulbs and store them indoors, then remember the following rules:
- you need to dig up the bulbs only when the leaves of the plants begin to dry;
- dug out bulbs need to be dried for several days, then put in peat or in wet clean sand;
- inspect and feel the bulbs once a week and immediately remove rotten, damaged or soft bulbs;
- air humidity in the storage is preferably 70%, temperature - 17 ºC.
But let us recall again: it is best to plant muscari in the fall, during the digging of the site, then it is also convenient to separate the babies from the mother's bulbs, followed by seeding, so it makes no sense to store the muscari bulbs indoors until spring.
Types and varieties
Armenian Muscari (Muscari armeniacum)
Among the species, the most often cultivated is the winter-hardy Armenian Muscari, or Colchis, which blooms in late spring for three weeks. It is he who is called "mouse hyacinth". The upper flowers in its inflorescences are sterile and have a lighter shade than the lower ones, dark blue with a white border. Muscari Armenian exudes a pleasant aroma. The most popular varieties are:
- Muscari Terry Blue Spike - extremely beautiful due to its multifloral nature (up to 170 flowers in an uviform inflorescence), unpretentious, can be used for cutting.
- Christmas Pearl - with very beautiful purple flowers;
- Fantasy Creation - very beautiful due to the combination of blue and blue-green shades.
In the photo: Muscari armeniacum
Muscari uviform (Muscari botryoides)
The muscari species is found in the alpine belt of Southern and Central Europe, it is one of the most popular in culture since 1576. The flowers of the aciniform are smaller than those of the Armenian. In addition to the varieties of the usual blue hue, there are two garden varieties:
- var. album - white muscari, clusters, as if from pearls;
- var. carneum - a kind of pink.
In the photo: Muscari uviform (Muscari botryoides)
Muscari broadleaf (Muscari latifolium)
It differs in wide, like a tulip, leaves and dense cylindrical inflorescences of dark blue color, and also in that one bulb can give several peduncles.
Pale Muscari (Muscari pallens)
It grows on the slopes of the mountains, small pale blue bells bloom on low peduncles. Among the garden varieties, the most demanded:
- White Rose Beauty - his flowers are not pale blue, but pale pink.
In the photo: Muscari pale (Muscari pallens)
Muscari crested (Muscari comosum)
An original plant found in nature among shrubs, in dry meadows and forest edges. On the peduncle of this species there is a tuft of purple flowers on arcuate pedicels. This plant looks great on lawns and lawns against the background of ground cover grasses. Popular variety:
- Plumosum - highly branched stems with many sterile purple-violet flowers.
In the photo: Muscari crested (Muscari comosum)
Or Muscari Tubergena (Muscari tubergenianum) - grows in northwestern Iran, blooms in mid-spring with blue flowers with pale teeth. Requires good drainage. Separately allocated by flower growers:
- variety Tubergen, which is distinguished by lighter flowers and crescent-shaped leaves.
Muscari pretty (Muscari pulchellum)
Hebrew name kadan nae (handsome), found in the parks of Ashkelon. Flowering begins in winter: short dense ovoid inflorescences of bright blue flowers appear on low peduncles. The fold teeth are white.
Photo: Muscari pretty (Muscari pulchellum)
In addition to these popular species in floriculture, there are many others: long-flowered muscari, changeable muscari, ambrosia muscari, white-grass muscari, large-fruited muscari, strange muscari, multi-flowered muscari, dense-flowered muscari, racemose muscari and so on.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Asparagus
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Information about Garden Plants
- Information on Perennial Plants
- Information about Herbaceous plants
Sections: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Flowering Asparagus Bulbous flowers Plants on M
Low-growing perennial plants Chionodoxa are representatives of the Scylla genus of the Liliaceae family. To date, 6 species of such a plant are known. In nature, they can be found on the island of Crete and in Asia Minor. The name of this plant consists of 2 Greek words, which translate as "snow" and "glory, pride". People call him "snowman" or "snowy beauty". A delicate chionodox bush with lovely flowers grows simultaneously with snowdrops and groves at a time when the snow cover has not yet completely melted from the ground.
Where to plant muscari in the garden
The growing season of muscari begins when there are no leaves on the bushes and trees, the neighboring plantations will not shade the plant. Lighting is required bright, partial shade is acceptable. There is no need to dig up the bulbs annually, so you can plant mouse onions next to perennials. Daffodils and tulips will make a good campaign - beautiful and convenient for the plants themselves.
Delicate bulbs are afraid of dampness; it is impossible to plant muscari in lowlands and in flooded areas, let the bed be on a small hill, protected from cold winds.
They are able to grow on depleted soil, but if filled with humus, the bulbs will be larger and the flowering will be lush. 1 month before planting for digging a site, apply up to 5 kg of organic fertilizer per 1 square meter of area. The looseness and water permeability of the soil is especially important, moisture should not stagnate.
It is advisable to change the landing site every 5-6 years.
Types, varieties of muscari
The most common of the 60 types:
Armenian (Colchis) - differs in two-colored fragrant petals on a spherical inflorescence. Above they are dark blue with a white border, below it is lighter. Leaves are linear, narrowed, blooms at the end of May for 20 days. Grows in Transcaucasia, found in Turkey.Unpretentious winter-hardy variety.
- Terry Blue Spike - cornflower-blue inflorescence in the form of a bunch has up to 180 flowers. Blooms 2 weeks later than the rest, does not bear fruit. They enjoy it for three weeks, grow it in gardens, make flower arrangements.
- Christmas Pearl - deep purple flowers with a musky scent.
- Fantasy Creation - differs in a changing color from green to blue.
- Venus is a new variety, translated as Venus, it has white flowers with a lilac tint.
- Grooved - sky-blue, blue-violet, white small flowers. It has two varieties: Album - like pearls, Corneum - like a pink cloud. Grows in Central, Southern Europe.
- Broadleaf - the leaves are similar to the tulip wider than the rest. Inflorescences are cylindrical, dark blue. Several peduncles emerge from a single bulb. Found in Asia Minor.
- Pale - low light blue flowers, similar to a bell. Grows in Caucasian meadows. From him came the popular White Rose (pink).
- Crested - differs in bright purple flowers collected in a tuft, plant height up to 70 cm. The most famous of this species is Plumosum, which grows in Europe and North Africa.
- Tubergena (Osh) - sickle-shaped leaves, azure flowers, jagged at the edges up to 18 cm, white buds on top. Found in Iran.
- Large-fruited - blue, yellow, brown flowers are larger than other varieties. Homeland - Greece, Western Turkey.
- Neglectum (unnoticed) - purple petals with a white border at the base and sky blue at the top.
- Belozevny - an inflorescence of ultramarine color (includes forty flowers), the petals are edged with white teeth. A native of the Black Sea region, Iran.
Seed planting in open ground
Suitable method for regions where spring is early and summer is warm. Light and loose soil is a prerequisite for good growth of the foxglove.
If the soil is loamy, dense, then sand and peat are added to increase the nutritional value and looseness of the substrate. The components are introduced before digging the earth. It is important to break the clods, loosen the substrate. It is useful to water the ground with a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.
It is important that it is warm outside and there is no threat of frost. The right time is the end of May. Previously, it was not worth sowing "grains" even in the southern regions.
Location selection and lighting
Foxglove grows well in open, sunny areas or with light shade. A plant with pyramidal inflorescences is not planted under fruit trees in the garden: under a dense crown it is too damp and dark, and in the fall, fallen leaves will cover the plantings and rot.
The site should not be swampy: excess moisture leads to the development of mold on the leaves and soil. Powdery mildew is a dangerous disease that develops on a beautifully flowering plant with excessive humidity.
- the optimal distance between neighboring plants is 15 cm or more. Thickened plantings interfere with the development of a decorative appearance and abundant flowering
- sow small seeds in calm weather, when there are clouds in the sky and the sun does not send scorching rays to the ground all day
- rain or fog - a reason to postpone the foxglove disembarkation to another day
- seeds are placed on the surface of the soil, you can make small depressions (up to 1 cm). Next, the planting material is sprinkled with a substrate, the area is sprayed, but not poured
- after germination, they take care of the seedlings: they carry out weeding, watering, destruction of weeds. In dry times, you can mulch the soil around young plants with straw or peat to retain moisture. Weeds grow weaker under a layer of natural mulch: this fact is confirmed by many growers.
An important nuance is the preparation of seeds:
- improves germination by a simple procedure - soaking the seeds in lukewarm water for two to three days. During this period, it is imperative to change the water (three to four times). Warm liquid is added: cold seeds swell worse
- you can soak the planting material in a solution of growth stimulants. The preparations Zircon and Kornevin received good reviews. It is necessary to strictly follow the instructions, prepare the base and working solution strictly according to the rules. You can not keep the seeds in the growth stimulant for longer than allowed by the instructions.
When to plant muscari bulbs outdoors
You can plant muscari in a permanent place in autumn and spring, depending on the region. Each of these methods has certain characteristics that need to be considered.
When to plant muscari in autumn
This planting time is preferable, as it allows the plant to bloom as early as next spring. It is recommended to carry out the procedure at the end of August or in September, depending on the conditions of the growing region.
Planting muscari in spring
During this period of the year, it is recommended to transplant muscari to another place of heavily overgrown bushes. To do this, you need to dig up the mother flower, divide it into daughter bulbs and immediately plant it in a permanent place.
Plant diseases and pests
Usually flowers resist various misfortunes: they have strong natural immunity.
But careless care, nutritional deficiencies, and an unsuccessful planting site weaken the plant - the resistance decreases.
Such unkempt flowers pick up an infection or suffer from pests.
Muscarica disease is a mosaic. Her symptoms:
- deformed plate plates
- short stalks
- degradation of inflorescences
- the color of the leaves is mosaic: spots and strokes of different shades of green.
If such a set of symptoms is found, the plant is destroyed. It is useless to treat it, and the risk of transferring the infection to neighboring bushes is high. The uselessness of treatment is explained by the fact that the carriers - aphids - settle inside the bulb, it is impossible to remove them from there.
Poisonous viper bows attract spider mites. On the leaves, inflorescences, thin threads of cobweb are noticeable, braiding the plant.
Conventional insecticides against ticks are useless, as ticks are not insects, they are arachnids. They use acaricides or more universal ones - insectoacaricides:
Such preparations work against insects and ticks at the same time, therefore they are often actively used by flower growers.
But if we are talking about such a picky plant as muscari, then it is easier to provide the flower with elementary conditions of detention than to fight diseases and pests.