How to deal with the vicious wheatgrass weed
Elegant villain - wheatgrass weed
This villain got me. We are talking about an interesting representative of the herbal kingdom - wheatgrass... Large expanses overgrown with wheatgrass are impressive, over which a free wind walks.
It inhabits wheatgrass in meadows, in fields, among bushes and even in forests. But the favorite place where luxurious specimens grow is, of course, our gardens.
It is unlikely that any of the farmers will remember him with a kind word. A weed is an aggressor, a conqueror of garden spaces, a sinister, and that's all. But in fact, he is just very actively fighting for his survival, using a completely modern method for this - forcing out other residents, in this case gardeners, from the inhabited areas.
The main conquering activity goes underground: from each bush, strong white "laces" of horizontal rhizomes quickly crawl in all directions. Pulling on such a "lace", you can pull out meter-long pieces of rhizomes from the loose soil. Since there are a lot of such rhizomes, long and short, and there are a lot of branches from them, the total length of the rhizome in one plant can reach 15 meters! The apical bud of the elongated rhizome takes a vertical position and gives rise to a new aerial shoot. From the lateral buds of the rhizome, shoots of the following orders are formed.
The bulk of rhizomes - about 90% - likes to be located at a depth of 5-12 cm. On well-cultivated soils, individual shoots can lie at a depth of 18 cm. Wheatgrass rhizomes are short-lived and live for 12-13 months.
Wheatgrass blooms in June-July. In August-September, up to 10-20 thousand seeds can ripen on one plant. They germinate in the same year, a couple of weeks after abscission. And non-germinated seeds remain viable for up to four years. Rhizomes grow until late autumn.
A dense network of rhizomes, having occupied the best nutrient layer in the soil, does not give any opportunity for other, more tasty and useful plants to grow in these places. The weakest and most "intelligent" plants move away from the wheatgrass. But there are those who are not inferior to him, forcing him to bypass them. Probably, many have noticed that wheatgrass tries to stay away from potatoes, tomatoes, garlic, parsley, celery.
Unfortunately, in most cases you have to fight this aggressor. Precisely to fight, because he does not give up and desperately resists. So, if you try to "weed" it, tearing the stems out of the ground, then on the rhizome remaining in the ground, all dormant buds immediately awaken, which would not have sprouted if the stem were intact. Buds germinate especially actively and amicably on small pieces of rhizomes, much more actively than on large pieces or the whole plant. If you leave a couple of such pieces in it during soil cultivation, then soon the thickets of wheatgrass will turn green in this place.
On this ability to wake up the sleeping buds, we will deceive the wheatgrass: we will specially chop all the wheatgrass in the soil with a shovel into smaller pieces - a bale-bale to a depth of 15 cm.Then we will wait a couple of weeks until the pieces intensively germinate and gain strength. And we will deal with them in several ways.
Method 1... Spray the emerald thickets with a roundup solution - 10 ml per liter of water. (Oh, how cruel it is! There is no longer a struggle, but extermination). In ten days everything will die. Although he is a sinister, it's still a pity.
Method 2... We will regularly, every 7-10 days, mow the grown greens. Rhizomes, not receiving nutrition, will not grow, they will begin to deplete and by the end of the season they will cease to exist.
Method 3... Before the onset of winter, shallowly shovel the ground with thickets of wheatgrass, trying to lay it upside down. In winter, emaciated rhizomes will freeze. The pieces of rhizomes that survived in a small amount in the spring can be removed with a pitchfork.
Method 4... Dig up the area with thickets so that the rhizomes are sealed as deep as possible into the ground. What will rise after that, and this will not be much, regularly chop off with a hoe until it dies.
The dead rhizomes remaining in the ground will become organic fertilizer after decomposition, because they contain a lot of organic matter. Many years ago, when developing a plot, I put wheatgrass rhizomes in a separate compost heap, sprinkling the layers with chicken droppings. The result is a very loose nutritious compost, despite the fact that wheatgrass rhizomes release something harmful to other plants during growth.
Wheatgrass grown in bushes such as gooseberries is difficult to remove. Here you can recommend this method of getting rid of: to achieve depletion of the rhizome by regularly cutting off wheatgrass with scissors.
In the literature, this method is recommended: lubricate the leaves and stems of wheatgrass with a brush or cotton swab dipped in a roundup solution (10 ml per 100 ml of water). However, my practice has shown that this method is unsafe for surrounding plants: either roundup vapors act on them, or rain spray reflected from leaves with roundup. In any case, it is impossible to pick off wheatgrass growing in the bush, because it grows even faster. It's easier to watch closely so that he doesn't crawl into someone else's territory.
Wheatgrass is harmful on the site not only because of its predatory inclinations, but also because a wireworm likes to settle on it, with which it is even more difficult to fight, and there is more harm from it than from wheatgrass.
If the war with wheatgrass does not end in our favor, then we will try to get the maximum benefit from his presence. For example, the thickets of wheatgrass under the apple trees can be left as turf. You just need to regularly mow the greens, preventing them from growing. Leave the cut greens right there in place - this will be fertilizer for the apple tree and at the same time mulch. It is especially good to mow with a lawn mower - it will turn out to be a pretty lawn for a while. And wheatgrass will gradually dry up by itself, because he cannot tolerate violence against his freedom-loving nature for a long time.
Wheatgrass rhizomes contain a lot of useful: 11% protein, 40% carbohydrates, fats, mucus, carotene, vitamin C, organic acids. After washing, they can be boiled and fed to livestock. Once I saw how gypsies cooked wheatgrass soup from greens. For yourself.
Fresh young roots with a sweetish taste can be added to salads and soups. In Siberia, delicious nutritious bread is baked from flour made from dried wheatgrass rhizomes. During the blockade, we baked cakes from such flour, cooked porridge, jelly.
Those who wish can now try to make a casserole: wash 150 g of rhizomes, boil in salted water, grind with a blender, mix with a beaten egg, pour into a hot, greased frying pan.
How to destroy dandelions in the garden and plot (cottage) once and for all
Dandelions - beautiful sunny flowers that adorn the lawns in summer cottages and vegetable gardens, delight us with their beautiful and friendly flowering. Without making a difference between the lawn and garden beds, filling the entire plot with themselves, flowers no longer bring joy to gardeners. Growing over the site, weeds take on some of the nutrients from the soil and moisture, taking them away from vegetables and other cultivated plants.
I was forced to write this article by a situation similar to that of many. When dandelions bloomed again in a solid carpet on the side of the beds in my garden. Well, they would bloom on the lawn, so their seeds scatter in all the beds. If on the beds themselves and in the furrows between them, the weeds can still be removed. So they get stuck in the middle of peonies, clematis and strawberries, from where it is quite difficult to uproot already sprouted plants.
These weeds are very tenacious, and very quickly conquer new territories. And if you don't fight them, you can lose your harvest and have health problems. So I started collecting information on how best to get rid of them. I am sharing with you what I found, suddenly it will be useful to someone else.
5 ways to control weeds - tips from an agronomist
Weeds litter the beds, are a breeding ground for pests and diseases, and are the first competitors of cultivated plants for water and nutrients. It is clear that you need to fight them, but how?
In addition to standard weeding, in a heavily overgrown area in autumn and spring, they are walked along the ground with a shovel, pitchfork or cultivator and, of course, each root is manually selected.
Where cultivated plants grow, selective herbicides are used: Lontrel-zood (used after harvest), Lapis lazuli (ideal for processing potatoes, provides protection for up to 60 days), etc. On free plots, continuous herbicides are used: Tornado ( for all types of weeds), Tornado BAU (for treating small areas), Agrokiller (a herbicide of a higher hazard class, destroys hogweed, wheatgrass, wild oats, horsetail, bindweed and even bushes).
The area free from vegetables is covered with some dense opaque material (dark film, agrofibre, roofing material, boards, cardboard, etc.), which prevents the penetration of light to the soil surface - this prevents weeds from growing. There are also disadvantages: for example, roofing material releases harmful resins into the soil, and slugs are bred under the boards.
To leave the weeds as little space as possible, make compacted plantings or sow the area with green manure.
All the leaves and shoots of weeds are periodically cut off at the soil surface, waiting for the death of the underground part. However, you will have to wait a very long time, the weeds will grow again and again, fully recovering, but you can reduce their harmful effect in this way. Finally, there is nothing better than prevention. In order not to introduce weeds to the site, do not use fresh manure, do not mulch the soil with cut dry grass with seeds, do not put mature grasses with seeds in the compost heap, mow the grass around the site in time, preventing it from forming flying seeds -
© Nikolay KHROMOV, Cand. agricultural sciences
Let us dwell on the fight against hogweed in a separate line.
This invader came down to us from the mountains of the Caucasus, Transcaucasia and Turkey. He successfully settled down in the northwestern and central regions of Russia. In the countries of Northern and Eastern Europe, the fight against hogweed has been declared a matter of national importance, special programs have been adopted here. And we sounded the alarm too!
How the cow parsnip was allowed into the garden
But what is not a silage plant? Such a giant, a lot of green mass, contains sugars that contribute to lactic acid fermentation. And very nutritious, including in protein content. A real delicacy for cows! But later it turned out that when the animals were fed with hogweed, their milk became bitter, and the cows had problems with reproduction. Silo, but not that one. Then came the crisis of the late 1990s, huge tracts of agricultural land were abandoned, and the cow parsnip broke free. First, he filled the no man's land, then entered the villages, playgrounds and roadsides. And now he is standing at the dacha gates.
Sosnovsky's hogweed is a very large plant, reaching a height of 3-5 meters. Propagated exclusively by seeds. One plant can form several umbrellas and produce more than 20 thousand seeds. Seeds
spread over a distance of up to 2 kilometers. Their viability lasts up to 5 years, and they do not sprout all at once, but "as needed."
How to fight?
We spray with herbicides. But remember: not all strong herbicides are approved for use on personal subsidiary plots. (Be sure to read the instructions for the preparations and do not exceed the dosage!)
To destroy the hogweed to the end, the herbicide must enter the root. That is, go all the way: through the pistya and further along the vessels to the very root. If you apply an overestimated dose of the herbicide, then the ground part of the plant will burn out quickly, but the herbicide will not have time to reach the root. Sleeping buds will wake up, growth will resume, and the cow parsnip will again be more alive than all living things. Do not expect an instant response from this method. Efficiency can be judged only a month after spraying.
- For those who are afraid of "chemistry", I will advise agrotechnical and mechanical methods. If the hogweed has settled on the site, then regularly dig the soil in this place with a rotation of the layer to a depth of at least 5 cm.This will not allow the seeds that have got there to ascend. Individual plants can be dug out, but always with a growing point, that is, to a depth of 15-20 cm.
- Mulch the soil with dark covering materials (geotextile, black film or spun-bond), sprinkle with earth on top and sow perennial grasses, for example, for a lawn.
- I often see thickets of hogweed behind the dacha fences. You won't go digging here, there are enough of your own beds. In this case, do not be lazy and, starting in May, mow the entire green mass of the cow parsnip. The main thing is not to let the seeds get tied!
You can work with Sosnovsky's hogweed only in protective clothing and gloves. If juice gets on your skin, wash immediately with soap and water and apply an opaque bandage. This is a must: poisonous substances are activated precisely under the influence of sunlight! They can cause severe and long-lasting 1-3 degree burns. The evaporation of essential oils is also harmful to humans. In general, hogweed is not a friend to us, we need to try with all our might to drive this plant from the site and as far as possible!
Have pity on your back in weed control
I have a small plot, but it so happened that in different parts of it there is different soil, which is why there is such a variety of weeds with which I had to get acquainted and measure my strength. The most problematic was the area with the loach, which is also popularly called the birch tree. Yes, this is a real headache, but, as they say, the devil is not so terrible as he is painted. The main thing is not to panic and not give up. After all, we are summer residents, and this is a high rank.
In general, I gathered my strength and declared war on this invader in the next landing season. Started in early spring. Armed with a flat cutter, I cut off the heads of all the sprouts that made their way into the light. It took me no more than an hour to clear four hundred parts in this way. A week later, I repeated the walk around my site and again put the plane cutter into action. With the same interval, I carried out this operation a couple more times, and this was the end of my main struggle with the malicious loach. And he submitted!
After that, it was a matter of technique to cope with the rest of the weeds, I was no longer afraid.
And it turned out to be very simple to achieve this: I “drove” the vegetables into narrow beds and walk along the aisles with a weeder or the same flat cutter. The main thing is that this work must be carried out methodically and at the right times.
And how much time was lost before, when I crawled on the ground, furiously tearing and picking up the grass. What delight I was overwhelmed when I saw that my site was ennobled! I have never experienced such pleasure from working on weed-free land.
Perhaps, during his school years in botany lessons, no one could have imagined that knowledge about plants would ever be useful to anyone. And, regardless of whether we remember something or not, the laws of nature work. Let's remember together once again simple truths.
Perennial weeds (such as wheatgrass, sow thistle or the same bindweed) most often have branched rhizomes underground. When the spring sun warms the earth, the buds on their roots wake up and young shoots begin to appear on the light, which, making their way underground, look out into the light of day and even faster after that they begin to gain strength.During this time, the roots are slightly depleted, but the opened young leaves themselves begin to synthesize nutrients.
Have you noticed that after sprouting, the weeds seem to freeze for some time and grow very slowly? This is precisely what happens because young shoots replenish the substances consumed from the rhizome. At this time we relax and lose our vigilance, because the weeds are still negligible and do not interfere with our plantings. So why raise the alarm? We will still have time to cope with them, but in the country there is a lot of things to do. And in vain we are blissful. It is at this time that the roots are gaining strength for reproduction, for new shoots.
If you immediately cut off its top when a weed appears on the surface of the earth, then this shoot will no longer open the leaves and will not feed the rhizome.
It is not at all necessary to rip it out with a long root. It grows with an apical bud - a point of growth. In five to seven days, a new generation of weed shoots appears from the ground, and new buds will wake up on the underground rhizome. And here I again do not let the leaves open and feed the rhizome - again I cut off the shoots that have appeared. In a week, the third generation will be crawling out of the ground. I destroy it too.
All these "births" are due to the nutrients of the rhizome, but since I did not allow the seedlings to feed it, it was depleted to such an extent that it is unlikely to have enough strength for the fourth generation. So it will die underground from dystrophy. And if he suddenly has some strength left, then I will cut off the tops of the shoots for the fourth time. Now, for sure, the weeds will not see the white light. And with all that, I never even bent over the weeding beds. But before I was sure that the more I work my back, the better the result I will get. Therefore, I will ask all dear and dear summer residents to leave the hoes alone. Stop waving them, the weeds are not afraid of them. Whether it's a weeder or a flat cutter - you work without much effort, with a straight back, with only one hands, and not with the whole body.
Of course, I will not idealize my method. It is hardly possible to get rid of weeds once and for all - we cannot prohibit the wind from blowing or birds flying over our garden and spreading seeds (and abandoned neighboring areas also contribute to the reproduction of weeds).
But this method of struggle is the most effective and least laborious. Any gardener-gardener can cope: both small and old. Even abandoned, turfed areas can be easily put in order, and it is advisable to start in spring, until the roots have gained strength.
Now weeding has become a pleasant job for me. Once a week I go through the site with a flat cutter, even if there is no apparent reason. I often hear through the fence: “Why don't you have weeds? When did you manage to pull everything out? " Yes, the weeds just do not like me and leave me for the neighboring gardens, where the owners are more supportive of them.
© Author: Natalia KRYLOVA, Neftekamsk. Bashkortostan
© Author: Andrey V. DOLININ, agronomist, Smolensk
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Clearing a site from weeds is a laborious, thankless task, but necessary. After all, weeds interfere with the normal growth of cultivated plants, taking away moisture, nutrients and sunlight from them. Moreover, some weeds even release toxic substances into the soil and attract pests to the garden and vegetable garden. Weeds enter our areas in a variety of ways. Their seeds move through the air, carried by rainwater, birds and animals. Perennial weeds can revive even from a tiny fragment of the rhizome. You can get rid of weeds in various ways - starting from ordinary weeding, that is, mechanical removal of the aboveground and underground parts
plants and ending with the treatment of the site with herbicides. But the simplest, most effective and, most importantly, environmentally completely harmless method is to cover the beds with plantings with black non-woven material, which is permeable to water and air, but does not allow sunlight to pass through, which is necessary for all plants, including weeds. Weeds deprived of UV rays will not develop. The material is laid on the garden bed, and in the places where the cultivated plants should be, cross-shaped cuts are made: useful plants will be above the surface of the fabric, the weeds will remain under it and die. To make the beds look more attractive, they can be covered with a layer of mulch, such as shredded pine bark.
More than once or twice I have already met comments in which gardeners complain that they can not cope with the cow parsnip. Well, I'll try to share my idea in this regard. I have had experience in gardening since childhood (and I was already 60). At different times I had at my disposal a dacha, plots, vegetable gardens, I saw everything, but it so happened that three years ago I bought a new "hacienda". And this is the first time I faced such a scale of problems: the entire site was overgrown with old dead trees and weeds. In general, a real jungle. With great difficulty, with the help of children, I was able to clear and uproot everything. And in the spring, a cow parsnip appeared on the site in all its glory.
Well, since my hands and the hoe did not take it, then I decided to move on to more serious means. I bought a weed killer (herbicide), diluted it with water and watered it according to the instructions. It helped, but it was weak. And I decided to take an independent step: I took the undiluted product, filled a syringe with it and injected directly into the trunks of the cow parsnip. And in the fall, I dug up the ground and threw away its rotten roots. Yes, the use of chemicals in the garden, of course, is not the best way out. But the cow parsnip is an exceptional case, especially since it is also poisonous. So I kicked out the wedge with a wedge.
I do not dare to use herbicides against weeds in my beds. I'm afraid to pollute the earth with toxins and poison pollinating insects. I think that chemical agents are best used where nothing edible grows - on flower beds and lawns. As a last resort, I sprinkle the rosettes of dandelions and plantains that have grown on the paths in the garden with salt and chlorine bleach.
And for the garden, this method is well suited: 1 month before planting and sowing, I spray the ground with a solution of 150 ml of vodka per 10 liters of water. This speeds up the germination of weed seeds, and I quickly destroy the seedlings with a hoe. Weeds that like acidic soils (woodlice, horse sorrel, mosses) are easily removed by embedding river sand mixed with copper sulfate and urea (5: 1: 1) into the soil.
Hands - safer
Every year my wife and I dig up the soil and pick the roots of plants from it with our hands. This is a hard, but reliable way to get rid of weeds. Good results are also obtained by plowing with a tractor or cultivator, in which weed seeds end up in the lower layers of the soil and no longer germinate. And roots deeply embedded in the ground are carried to the surface. They can only be pulled out with a pitchfork.
And yet, so that there are fewer weeds on the site, fresh manure should not be applied to the soil. Weeding should be done before the plants are seeded. It is better to do this a day after the rain, when the soil is no longer sticky, but still pliable. Weeds must be pulled out by the roots, capturing them at the base of the stems. I extract long roots with a knife. I destroy weed seedlings with a flat cutter and a hoe. Well, so that my back does not hurt from such work, I take a rubber mat with me for weeding and kneel on it, and my wife works sitting on a bench.
At the beginning of each dacha season, I cover the weed sprouts in the beds with black film for 2-3 weeks. Without light, with high humidity and stuffiness, they vomit along with the roots. There remains a clean, warmed-up soil.
In a similar way, weeds can also be removed in the summer on paths, in aisles, in areas free from planting. In stores, special agromaterials are sold for this. But I use everything that comes to hand: boards, roofing material, metal shields, cardboard, newspapers, pieces of old carpet, linoleum.
It will not allow weed sprouts and mulch from humus, peat, sawdust, hay, ground tree bark, needles to break through to the light. True, the layer of mulch should be thick enough - from 10 cm or more.
So that the weeds have nowhere to grow, do not leave empty space in the garden, planting it as tightly as possible.
Combine planting vegetables with herbs, herbs. After harvesting, sow fast-growing vegetables (radishes, green onions, lettuce) or green manures (legumes, mustard, phacelia) in the vacated beds.
In the garden, I practice turfing the soil by regularly mowing the grass. Weeds form an even green carpet, which also protects the soil from drying out. You can also cut the grass between the beds.
And on lawns where no one walks, sow ground cover grasses. They will displace weeds, as they are able to quickly capture space.
I learned a lot of useful things about weed control on the path and in the garden at the dacha. Particularly attractive, I think, are the advice on using the biological method. Covering part of the site with a black, light-insulating dense material such as black film, roofing material (but minus what gives off resin), cardboard boards, etc., we doom these uninvited guests to death. But if I clearly know the procedure for using chemical methods of weed control, I would do it. But so far I have no such confidence. Thank you dear for the advice. We continue to fight weeds.
The dacha was "attacked" by a bindweed. Having found out that he loves poor soils with a neutral or alkaline reaction (like mine), she began to acidify the soil (but only under crops that suit it: blueberries, cranberries, sorrel, potatoes). And to improve fertility, she densely sowed siderates (phacelia, alfalfa, mustard, oil radish) - they suppress weeds and fertilize the site. And one more thing: the more often you loosen and weed the beds, the faster the bindweed will leave.
I cover the undeveloped area with a black film - and after a couple of months the weeds under it will vomit from the heat. When choosing a film for these purposes, I make sure that it does not transmit light, that it adheres tightly to the soil surface, is elastic and durable. Some people use roofing material instead of a film, but I heard that in the heat it releases harmful substances into the ground, so if it was laid, it would only be in the passages.
I realized one thing: beds from weeds can only be saved by constant dense mulch, large crops (pumpkin, zucchini, potatoes, cabbage) and once a week - a flat cutter. It is important to sow green manure, because the main condition is not a piece of empty land from snow to snow! And I save myself from the neighboring rhizome weeds by digging in pieces of slate along the fence.
Rhizome weeds like wheatgrass are useless to dig up - they quickly renew from the roots. Therefore, I came to selective herbicides. I breed them strictly according to the instructions, I spray them on a windless and always dry day: wheatgrass is afraid of the heat, and during such a period it can be hit to the very roots!
Salt will help
To get rid of the grass on the garden paths, I spill them with a strong salt solution (I dilute 2 kg of salt in 10 liters of hot water). I repeat the procedure in two weeks - and I forget about the grass on the paths for a long time!
This one-year-old liana is also popularly called a birch tree: a climbing plant with white flowers that braid fences and everything that stands in their way.
If old junk is braided with a bindweed, then it is even beautiful. But when he climbed the beds or climbed the trees, it’s nothing good: he will strangle the plants and draw out all the juices from the soil. And, by the way, this weed lives up to 50 pet! And getting it out is not easy.
But I know a good way.
In the fall, the land where the birch grows must be dug up and laid so that the lower layers lay on top. The bindweed roots will freeze and the plant will die. If something still gets through in the spring, spray the seedlings with a 15% aqueous solution of salt.
And my weed on the site became kampsis. For 22 years, the rhizomes have spread throughout the entire site, it is impossible to dig out the whole root, where one grew, two grows. Advise how to deal with this handsome aggressor?
In early summer, weeds rage, especially if the weather is warm and humid. If you give them free rein, they will instantly begin to displace cultivated plants. It is much easier to control young weeds. Try to pull them out at once by the roots.
You can simplify the task with the help of a sharp plane cutter, cutting the roots of weeds at a depth of 3-4 cm. It is also very convenient to use narrow digging forks, especially for weeds with a shallow root system. Such pitchforks are great at fighting against melancholy.
June 18 against the weeds
I am sure that for most gardeners, weeding is the least favorite job. And I always looked with disappointment and annoyance at the beds overgrown with weeds after the next cleaning. But once in one old book I read this advice: "If you remove all the weeds from the garden on June 18 before 1 pm, they will no longer grow." Of course, I decided to test it in practice. I allocated a plot in the garden for the experiment and destroyed all the weeds on it before the appointed time. To my surprise and joy, weeds grew everywhere, but not a single one on the experimental plot! The next year I repeated the experiment and again got the desired result. Now I definitely do the weeding on the morning of June 18th. Since it is impossible to overpower the entire plot at once in such a time, I remove the bulk of the weeds within a week, and on the appointed day I destroy the "tails". And now there are no problems with weeds on the site. So believe it or not, June 18 is a special day of the year for gardeners. S. MASLOVA Penza region
How to deal with reeds
Someone suggested that the reeds should be poisoned with diesel fuel. It is necessary to take a plastic bottle with a capacity of 300-400 ml, unscrew the lid and pierce a hole from the inside for the body of a simple ballpoint pen to fit tightly there. The body should extend outward by 4-5 cm, and inside the lid - by 2-3 cm. Pour diesel fuel into this container, and when we tilt the bottle, it drips a little. We go to the place where the reed grows, and cut it off with a pruner or sickle so that a stump of 7-8 cm remains, and we drip diesel fuel onto the cut so that it is slightly moistened. And so, step by step, we advance, not missing anything. I checked the cut reeds, it was dead to a depth of 15 cm and did not grow anymore. So I got rid of him. The finger-thick roots in the ground remained intact, but the reeds never emerged.
If everything were as simple as he describes, the state would not allocate huge funds to combat hogweed. Yes, and I was convinced from my own experience of the viability of this plant. I first saw him about fifteen years ago in the Krasnodar Territory. With delight, I photographed side by side and, to the horror of my relative, for fun began to break a thick stem. It's good that I didn't have time to get burns - they pulled me off on time!
And now hogweed has appeared in abundance in our Leningrad region, quickly filling fields and even household plots. It is a pity that the fight against him is somehow weak
more, in small areas. Sometimes it can be seen: where there used to be a hogweed plantation, all the land is scorched by chemistry, and around the young growth of this infection is quietly growing. And after a while, the hogweed will again occupy everything around (while other plants are just coming to their senses). Its power would be useful ...
It is necessary to fight not only with the seeds, but also with the root, and this plant has a very powerful one, up to two meters. And even from the smallest piece left in the ground, everything grows back quickly. Directly some kind of Serpent Gorynych. And it burns, and you cut off one head - two will grow.
About five years ago, I accidentally brought seeds to the side of my plot. I found out about this when one of the neighbour's boys did a
daughter from a young hogweed and, of course, received serious burns (there was no one to warn them, like me in my time). I began to fight to prevent this plant from spreading in our gardening. She raised everyone to their feet. And what did we just not do! How can you not remember one famous comedian when he told how in one village they fought with horseradish ... He was funny. And every time we have surprise and indignation.
We started with a simple digging out, then my husband tried to damage the growth point with a crowbar. They watered them with different chemistry, even the electrolyte was drained from the car battery - no, nothing was done to it, new green leaves peeped out again. The only success is that it does not creep around the garden, but grows in one place.
But why can't I deal with him in any way? Is he smarter than me? Having rummaged through the Internet, I read that this plant blooms and bears fruit once in a lifetime, then dies off, but if it is mowed and not allowed to bloom, it can live up to 12 years. It seems to me that this is where the problem lies. I do not wait for him to give a flower, but struggle with his foliage. And from the root, which can be very deep, dormant buds wake up and new leaves grow. And so from year to year.
But for a successful fight in this way, you will have to fence it off with a separate fence and hang up a sign so that nothing is touched. In the meantime, it remains for me to mow it for another seven years, so that no one else will
suffered. That's when I will write a new article on how I defeated a hogweed. Although I am sorry that he is so harmful. I have always liked this plant. The size of its stem and a huge beautifully blooming umbrella amazed me. It is a pity that you cannot eat it, I would not mind growing such "dill" in the beds.
D In short, the fight against hogweed should be carried out, but more actively, using different methods.
But I just can't imagine how you can mow umbrellas with unripe seeds separately in large areas, leaving the stem so that the flower ends its two-year lifespan, and the root does not give new shoots? Maybe someone has an idea? In the meantime, my hogweed at the dacha has gone under the snow with young green leaves, and in the spring a new stage of the war with him will begin.
There is a silver lining
But I still got some benefit from the hogweed. I am fond of floristry and often use dry stems of this plant. Interesting frames are obtained from them for decorating decorative panels and paintings. And recently, my grandson needed to do some
deal to school. We decided to build a house, and the most accessible material for it turned out to be cow parsnip. In addition, it was late autumn in the yard, and its stems were dry.
Putting on gloves and armed with axes (you can't cut them off with a simple knife), my husband and I collected the necessary material. By the way, dry hogweed is absolutely harmless and you can work with it like with a tree.
At home, my grandson and I got down to business. To begin with, they picked up a suitable cardboard box, folded it into a house, cut out the windows and doors. They began to glue the logs-stems, cut along (). PVA glue was used.
True, I had to wait a while for the glue to dry and the stems to hold tight. To do this, the model of the house was laid on its side and the walls were pasted over in turn (). Unfortunately, our house is still under construction, and we will need time and additional material to complete the craft. But the main idea, I hope, is clear, and then everything depends on imagination.
I always cultivate the land thoroughly, I struggle with weeds sparing no effort and without any compromises, I always disinfect the purchased soil and, if possible, sift it so as not to bring strangers into the garden. But suddenly I discovered that on the site I had some kind of strange moss that completely covers the beds and does not allow anything to grow. I spent the whole summer trying to remove it, tried it with dolomite flour, and choking it with lime - nothing helps. Maybe someone can tell me how to lime it?
In my garden there is a tire with water, from which I water. Green algae appeared in it, in the summer it had to be cleaned every week.
And once I put twigs of creeping wheatgrass on the water so that wasps and small insects would not drown. Then the twigs took root, and the water was clear all summer. Now all summer I am constantly throwing wheatgrass right with the roots and I don’t know worries - the water in the wheel is always clean!
Most likely, you poisoned the soil with a continuous herbicide that destroys all vegetation indiscriminately. - these are usually used for processing railway tracks. All of them are the strongest poisons prohibited for use in personal subsidiary plots. After treatment with such herbicides, the soil turns into a dead zone for many years. For example, the action of the most harmless * herbicide - Arsenal * (III hazard class, does not migrate in the soil) lasts 3-5 years. And what was in your hands is unknown (most often the Ankor-85 + Glyphosate tank mixture is used on the railways).
In any case, the only way out of this situation is to completely replace the soil on the site at least to the depth of the root layer. The question is - where to take it out so as not to cause irreparable harm to the environment? Or find out which herbicide the “good advisors” have recommended for you, and learn about the terms of its preservation in the soil. But even after the complete disintegration of the pesticide. which can only be confirmed by careful agrochemical analysis, the use of fruits and vegetables from the contaminated area for food remains dangerous.
You yourself, probably, have already understood the rashness of your act, which will take a very, very long time to pay for. Let this be science for you and other gardeners who want to get rid of weeds as soon as possible at the cost of their health.
A reckless act I wanted to get rid of the weeds on my plot. I was advised to use a liquid composition that is used to pollinate railway tracks so that there is no grass. I spread it and pollinated the paths in the garden and the area around the hedge. In the spring, there was no grass, but at a great distance from the sprayed area, nothing sprouted (neither radishes, nor cabbage seedlings, nor lettuce). Tell me what can be done in such a situation to restore the soil?
The fight against these weeds is laborious, but quite real.
On large plantations against horsetail, herbicides Roundup, Hurricane, Gpyalka, etc. are used (while making sure that they do not get on cultivated plants), it is the leaves that are sprayed. In small garden plots where the use of herbicides is undesirable, the soil is deoxidized with phosphate rock, fluff lime, dolomite flour or wood ash. At the same time, they dig up the clogged area, select the rhizomes of the weed manually. Then, at the seeding site, from white mustard, rapeseed, radish, as Guest
01/11/2014 (18:56) #
The garden was filled with woodlice, horsetail and sow thistle. How to deal with them?
A real campaign against hogweed was launched a few years ago. Today the passions have subsided. It seems that this giant, which grows along the tracks and surrounded the summer cottages, came out the winner. The main thing is not to let the aggressor step into our beds!
In fact, this plant has several species. Among which there are quite harmless ones, for example, Siberian hogweed. I will say more, its leaves are even used in salads, and the petioles are pickled.
Our main enemy is Sosnovsky's ranger. This is such an aggressor that once being on the field without supervision, he boldly occupies more and more new areas.
Hogweed are biennial plants. That is, the first year grows, the second - blooms and dies, leaving seeds. But what seeds! First, there are about 15-20 thousand of them in a giant inflorescence! Secondly, they are "with wings", that is, they can master a very
large areas. Thirdly, some of them can wait in the wings and germinate only after 5-10 years. Now it is clear what kind of enemy is in front of us.
And why the actual enemy? It grows and grows. But this invader is changing the flora of the area, driving out the "indigenous inhabitants". In addition, its juice contains compounds that, upon contact with the skin, cause redness and itching. In general, a strong allergic reaction. Moreover, at the first stage, it passes very imperceptibly for a person, the reaction occurs after a few hours. And allergic dermatosis recedes very slowly.
How to fight?
Hogweed seeds are both a strong and a weak link. It is worth destroying them, and the plant will die. Because hogweed does not give root growth.
Therefore, if at the approaches to the site you have thickets of hogweed, then destroy the buds at the earliest stage, do not let the seeds form. And it is imperative to work with gloves.
In the spring, go out on a hogweed with a shovel. Cut off the growing point of the plant below the root collar. If you cut it higher, then the side shoots will go, which will again give seeds.
Annual shoots, when still weak, can be easily dealt with by simple weeding.
You can mow the plant before it goes into the tube, always before flowering. And do it all summer long. Mown hogweed
clean up immediately in heaps. Don't leave them in the same place. The stalk has such a reserve of vitality that it is enough for the seeds to ripen even on a cut plant.
When working with hogweed and even just pulling out a single plant, you should always be dressed from head to toe. If the juice of this plant accidentally gets on the body, then when sunlight (ultraviolet) hits these places, dermatitis will appear as burns.
If the hogweed burned
Immediately wash the burned areas in running water and laundry soap.
Treat with alcohol or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Cover the burned area for a few days, but without any dressings or bandages.
Well, if the poison does not get on the skin, but on the mucous membrane, then immediately run to the doctor.
Before, when I was young, and there were more than enough strengths, I ran around the garden like a clockwork, especially when the site was given to my full disposal. Now I think that if I immediately went to work with the mind, then how many things would have time to heap up! But they learn in life not from other people's mistakes, but from their own. And only over time I figured out (and my husband's tips turned out to be sensible) how to equip everything in such a way as to bow less to the landings - there are already enough other things to do.
We divided the whole garden into narrow ridges, not according to some science, but as the land itself suggested. The width of the beds is such that I could reach the middle from both sides - that's the whole secret. In addition, all season I work with only two tools: a hoe with a 5 cm wide blade and a 30-35 cm long handle and a lily root (this is such a narrow scapula bent in a semicircle). I have been using the first tool for 25 years and I don’t need to change it for anything else.
I take it, because its narrow blade allows you to climb into any corners and under any plants. And most importantly, the hoe is very light, and no extra effort is needed. I have been using the root remover for only four years, but I have appreciated it. Now I am not afraid of any of the worst weeds. The blade of the paddle can easily enter the ground at any depth. I put the root remover next to, for example, a dandelion, make a turn in the ground and pull out a whole "beard" from the ground - that's it, the enemy is defeated. But this is still
Not all. This wonderful tool is simply irreplaceable when you need to dig up tulips, gladioli and onions. And with his help, all these plants can be planted in the spring: he lowered the blade into the garden bed to the required depth, turned it around the axis, pulled out a lump of earth, and put the desired bulb in the hole. Fast, and labor costs are minimal. In addition, you do not need to stir up the entire garden, and planting can be done in the order that your heart desires: at least
line, even in a checkerboard pattern, even in a broken line. And I plant all the other garden crops using a little hoe. Unless a large shovel is needed for potatoes, but this is already the husband's domain, and he always plants himself. My worries are only to prepare the tubers.
We have very little grass in our beds, and in one weekend visit I manage to walk the entire site. Where does the grass go? Everything is simple. Narrow fenced beds do not allow unnecessary weeds to penetrate, and I try to protect the land near the plants by covering them with newspapers folded in four, fortunately there are a lot of them - my husband closely monitors the situation in the country and the world, regularly conducts political information classes for me. And so that the newspapers do not fly away from the wind, I press them with lumps of earth. How long, you say? I assure you - no, but you will greatly benefit from weeding. In addition, cucumbers and cabbage can be planted under a paper shelter. By the way, it prevents flies from making their way to plants and gnawing their stems.
If we are making repairs in an apartment or in a country house, then instead of newspapers we use our old wallpaper. This year I spread them out on the garden bed, cut holes crosswise and planted tomatoes in them. It turned out to be very convenient for me and for them. This shelter was enough for the whole summer. And in late autumn I collected the remains and put them in a compost barrel - next year there will be a glorious fertilizer. So it turns out that the wallpaper served us three times.
It's easier to work from year to year
Thus, I try to fence off as many landings as possible. No unnecessary waste
you don't have to bow down and weed. This is important for me, as my back and joints ache. Incidentally, I cultivate the land sitting on a stool. The husband sawed off his legs a little - this is enough not to bend over much and at the same time it is easy to get up. I put a stool on the border and immediately process two beds in half. Then I rearrange it to another boundary and again in the same order.
There is no need to weed the paths at all. I remember how in the early years we hammered them with a hoe for hours, dragged the grass, but now everything is in the past. We started by bringing in a bunch of cardboard boxes from the store, taking them apart and covering them. And immediately heaved a sigh of relief. And there are enough boxes for two years. Then you need to replace, and send the loose ones to compost. By the way, the worms will be very grateful to you for this.
This year we decided to gradually replace the cardboard on the paths with linoleum. We lay it with the wrong side up, otherwise it is very slippery, and therefore dangerous. Old carpets are also suitable for such a case. Some of them are used to shelter beds with flowers, strawberries, onions or winter crops:
we put them inside out to the ground. Such shelters help us out a lot: we don't have to go to the forest, collect foliage and bring pests and weed seeds with it, or even diseases.
Not a single five-liter empty bottle will go to waste. In autumn, when the time comes to drain the water from the barrels, pour it into these bottles and leave it for the time being. This is an excellent alternative to the stones with which we press the covering materials in winter. They put it on one side, the water in them freezes and the bottle sticks to the coating, no winds can blow it away. In addition, this is our "strategic reserve" of water for the spring, besides, it has been frozen and therefore is twice as useful.
I have such bottles and mini-greenhouses for seedlings - for this you just need to cut off their bottom. And keeping such greenhouses is simple: I collect them by the handles on a piece of rope or wire and hang them on a nail from the back of the house.
Not all weeds are harmful. In general, weed is a relative concept. Some of their representatives interfere with the harvest of crops, which are much inferior in usefulness. No, an unambiguous approach is inappropriate here.
Many summer residents declare all the weeds in the garden to be their enemies and fight them with different chemistry for life and death. But most of the weeds are medicinal herbs and, with skillful use, can provide invaluable help to a person!
The main thing here is knowledge of medicinal herbs and an individual approach to the so-called weeds.
Unfortunately, there are often cases when, after hearing enough stories that someone was cured with some herb, people begin to urgently take decoctions and tinctures, without thinking whether it is suitable for them personally.There are also difficult cases, so the number of those who are disappointed is growing inexorably. For example, having heard that a certain herb helps with kidney diseases, a person begins to use this herb uncontrollably. And he may have kidney stones, and the consumption of a large amount of decoction of medicinal herbs will cause their movement and blockage of the renal tubules. A person can end up in the hospital with a severe attack of renal colic and be forever disappointed in traditional methods of treatment. Therefore, beginners should definitely consult with experts.
I have been using medicinal herbs for several decades, so I always leave a small amount of the necessary weeds in the garden for drying and winter storage. I have a large family, someone can get sick, and herbs will come in handy here. Moreover, I never use any chemicals in the garden, and purer raw materials can be found only in a virgin forest. But completely different herbs grow in the forest, I have never met either knotweed or celandine there.
I always leave a few of his plants somewhere on the edge of the garden. Most often, around the garden with cucumbers: while they creep, the knotweed will have time to grow large enough to collect. I always leave a few plants to get seeds, let them sow for myself. Fighting this weed is quite simple, it has only one root, although it sits firmly in the ground.
Sparrows love to peck flowering knotweed, often whole flocks come to the plot with it. Perhaps that is why it is also called the bird mountaineer.
The mountaineer is known as a kidney agent that removes sand and stones, as well as a general tonic and tonic.
Under bushes and trees in dense shade, it often grows by itself. As a weed, it is not terrible, it is easily pulled out by the roots, and as a medicine it is widely known, even used in oncology. If warts or other growths on the skin are regularly smeared with orange celandine juice, the effect occurs after 3-4 weeks. It is known as an anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, antiviral, antifungal and choleretic agent.
This plant grows along the edges of flower beds with perennial flowers in dry places, which I will definitely leave. If necessary, it is not difficult to get rid of it, you just need to pick it up with the rhizomes and pull it out.
Even the Soviet official medicine recognized this medicinal plant, it was part of an appetizing tea. In folk medicine, yarrow is used as a hemostatic, as a remedy for diseases of the liver, gastrointestinal tract, bladder, hypertension and asthma.
So before you kill weeds, think about whether this or that weed can be useful to you.
No need to demonize the hogweed!
This is a completely common, albeit very large plant. No need to panic, you just need to exterminate it, and for this there is a fairly simple and effective way.
It has long been known: whoever wants to do business, is looking for a way, who does not want to seek an excuse for his inaction, assuring himself of the hopelessness of the situation. For example, what do the Japanese do when there is no fish? They go out to sea and catch her!
The hogweed, like many members of the umbrella family (dill, parsley, caraway seeds, parsnips, fennel, etc.), has a two-year life cycle. In the first year, a leaf rosette grows, in the second year, an arrow (stem) with inflorescences (umbrellas) comes out. Seeds appear and ripen on them, then the whole plant, including the root, dies. However, many seeds remain that germinate and the cycle repeats. And it will repeat itself ad infinitum, if panicky conversations do not give way to a very simple, but extremely real action.
To prevent the seeds from ripening, you need to cut off the stem with inflorescences at the beginning of flowering or cut the umbrellas so that the flowers cannot produce seeds using the nutrients coming through the powerful stem. For safety net, it is advisable to put the collected inflorescences in a heap, let them dry and burn.
There is no simpler, cheaper and more reliable way. Proven by many years of personal practice.
How to deal with hogweed
I read about a variety of methods - mowing, injecting fungicide, trimming umbrellas, covering with foil, etc. I will not evaluate their effectiveness, I will only say that very few people manage to cope with this scourge, and in no man's land, no one cares about cow parsnip. I would like to touch upon the issue of safety when applying any of the proposed methods.
There is an opinion that hogweed contains highly toxic juice. This is not entirely true. All parts of the plant contain furocoumarins. They do not burn the skin, but when they come into contact with it, they increase its susceptibility to ultraviolet radiation by a factor of hundreds (!). And the harmless sun leaves severe burns in these places - the first or second degree. Moreover, it is enough just to touch the cow parsnip or go through its thickets so that invisible drops of insidious juice hit the skin. Well, then - long-term treatment of a serious illness. It will not be possible to ignore it either: the persistent aggressor will spread his seeds and will soon conquer the entire plot. It is even more difficult if you have a small child - you cannot and should not let him close to the cow parsnip. But when declaring war on a monster, consider a number of mandatory requirements.
Of course - rubber gloves. In general, there should be no open areas of the body. My neighbor in the country is fighting a cow parsnip in a chemical protection suit. But what if contact could not be avoided?
• Immediately cover the affected skin from the sun.
• At home, wash them well with soap and rubbing alcohol or cologne.
• If irritation develops, lubricate the skin with an anti-burn agent.
• Take medication to prevent allergies.
• And after these initial measures, immediately and without fail see a doctor: remember that severe burns from hogweed can be fatal!
In general, jokes with this monster are bad. Near the village of Dolzhitsy in the Pskov region, where I was visiting friends, the whole jungle of a huge hogweed is much taller than a person's height, which is clearly visible in the photographs (I was afraid to come close - they say that the monster is especially dangerous for blondes with fair skin).
I know that during the difficult war years it was eaten (hence the name), but the hogweed has several varieties. The most dangerous is Sosnovsky's hogweed. But only a specialist can distinguish one species from another! I read that they brought the monster in the 1930s from America, so that there was something to feed the cattle. However, the cows refused it, and if they ate, they were extremely reluctant, and the milk gave a bitter, unpleasant taste.
Unfortunately, in our days the devastation of the former collective farm lands in the last
20 years. The aggressor seizes the once fertile arable land, increasing his possessions, and therefore the number of seeds, which, scattering around the district, settle in vegetable gardens and summer cottages.
It is possible to fight it only with the whole world, and this requires costs.
I would like to hear the opinion of readers who have experience in dealing with an aggressive plant monster. For some reason, no one writes on this topic at all, but in vain!
Why does hogweed grow along roads? Because until the 1970s, it was specially planted there in order to prevent agricultural and wild animals from entering the collective farm fields. As a result, giant monsters are now steadily expanding their holdings.
Last year, at the end of winter, an old wooden shed was dismantled. I didn't want to build any of these boards, but it was a pity to burn or throw away. At first, they put them on the beds, and they lay there until the sowing season,
After removing the boards, we found under them a cleaner, more thawed soil than in other areas. The seeds were sown in these strips - they sprouted a little earlier.
■ This year, boards were specially laid on future beds, and after sowing, they were moved to the edges (we make the sides sloping), thanks to which there are no weeds - they cannot break through, and if they do sprout, then they are frail and still not visible from under such shelter. In addition, as we have noticed, in beds with sloping sides and boards along the edges, moisture is better retained in the soil.
■ After harvesting, we shift the boards to the aisles (and while we are digging the beds, we apply the necessary fertilizers for the next season) - they restrain the growth of weeds in the aisles.
Perennial rhizome weeds are eternal companions of clay soils. Of course, the easiest way to get rid of them is to treat the area with continuous herbicides (such as Roundup), but I still advise you to go with the old old-fashioned method, when the weeds are “driven out” in combination with improving the soil structure.
So, in the spring, they first dig up the site with a shovel, without breaking large clods. After 1-2 days, when the lumps dry out, it will be easier to select wilted plants (even small roots need to be removed, because they are all
can germinate equally). After that, the soil is treated with a cultivator and at the end the remaining rhizomes are combed out with a rake. If you have already dug up the soil in the spring, and wheatgrass, dandelion and sow thistle have grown anyway, as in your case, dig up the site again, choosing their roots, and then, i.e. right now, sow some si-derat thickly, for example, white mustard. She quickly rises and grows, occupying the entire
the area of the site and thereby oppressing the sections of weed rhizomes remaining in the soil.
Mow the mustard during flowering and immediately embed it in the soil until the greenery wilted. By spring, fresh, nitrogen-rich organic matter will be completely processed - and you get a soil significantly enriched with nutrients, which is lighter, more permeable and fertile. And most importantly, destroy wheatgrass, sow thistle and dandelion as much as possible. Of course, it will never be possible to get rid of weeds forever, but weeding will come to the rescue, the main thing is not to be lazy.
TIP: If you are short on time and energy, break the area into pieces. Start small and cultivate the soil in this area, gradually "capturing" new ones.
We are developing a new area with clay soil. In early spring, after cultivation with a cultivator, early potatoes were planted on it. Now, after harvesting it, dandelion, sow thistle and wheatgrass have grown there again. How to clear them from the garden?
Weed control sawdust
Weeds are known to be the worst enemies of the crop. Therefore, the entire summer season has to bend your back in the fight against them. And on
my garden for several years - not a single weed of grass! And no weeding!
Before the onset of severe frosts, I scatter sawdust with a layer of 10-15 cm on the paths of the garden and in the aisles of the beds (I take them from the logging base). They do not allow weeds to germinate. In the fall, I transfer the old rotted sawdust to the beds and dig them up with the soil. After such a procedure, it becomes crumbly and saturated with nitrogen. And the aisles again fall asleep with fresh sawdust. Here is such a simple and useful way to control weeds. Try it!
Many summer residents during the summer season are faced with a constant problem - the removal of weeds, which often creep into the aisles. We have minimized this procedure. We do not have row spacings as such, and the beds are separated by boards the size of a foot. Weeds simply have nowhere to come from! In the fall we remove the boards, dig up the earth, and in the spring we form new beds. By the way, this helps us to comply
crop rotation (there are clear boundaries). In addition, thanks to the use of boards, the land of our small garden plot is more efficiently used.
To successfully control weeds, you need to know which weeds are growing in your area. Indeed, for the destruction of some, regular weeding or mowing is enough, with others, such as field bindweed, creeping wheatgrass, sow thistle, starweed, wormwood and dandelion, you will have to suffer. Unfortunately, it will not be possible to get rid of weeds once and for all, but you can significantly reduce their number.
There are such basic weed control measures.
1. Thorough preparation of the soil before sowing or planting, especially perennial plants. In the fall, the soil on the site is dug up without breaking lumps. In this case, weed rhizomes freeze and partially rot. In the spring, the soil is dug up again, carefully selecting the remaining roots. There is another recommendation - not to dig up the site unnecessarily.
at all. It is believed that when digging, weed seeds lying at a depth fall upward, and light stimulates their further active growth.
2. Cleaning and composting of all plant residues, removal of weeds before flowering and insemination.
3. Frequent loosening of row spacings with subsequent drying of the soil.
Many weeds are easiest to fight at the moment of germination (quinoa, field mustard, wild radish, gills, chicken millet, beetroot, highlander, etc.). It is not even necessary to pry them out - it is enough to cut them off at the very ground with a hoe or Fokin's flat cutter. Attacking plants, like runny and nettles, after frequent mowing, the plot disappears in the 3-4th year. Wheatgrass, sow thistle and dandelion rhizomes will have to be selected manually. Frequent weeding will also be required in the fight against starlet, because it is able to bloom all summer, scattering new seeds around itself.
It helps to reduce the number of weeds in the beds by mulching the soil with sawdust, wood chips, straw and other organic materials. In small areas, it is convenient to use black non-woven material, depriving weeds of light and at the same time protecting the root system of cultivated plants from drying out during the day and hypothermia at night.
One of the most effective agricultural practices, especially in heavily weedy areas, is to plant potatoes, corn and pumpkins on them. The powerful root system of these plants loosens the soil, and the spreading aerial part suppresses weeds. In hard-to-reach places (between slabs of paths, blind foundation, etc.), heat treatment of the paths with a gas torch, blowtorch or technical hairdryer will help.
How to get rid of weeds
I would like to clear the area of weeds. without using chemistry. Tell me how to do it correctly? Do you have a great desire to get rid of this problem forever, or is it impossible?
How to deal with wheatgrass
About 15 years ago, they allocated us a piece of land, all overgrown with wheatgrass, it was impossible to plant root crops or vegetables there. The ground was overflowing with wheatgrass roots.
I thought and thought and decided to plant corn in a square-grain way. The holes were dug with a shovel, the corn sprouted, and with it the wheatgrass was weeded with a hoe, where it cut down, and where it pulled out by the roots. The first time it was very hard, but after 8-10 days I weeded again. After a while, I went to weed for the fourth time and was surprised - the earth became like fluff, and not a trace of wheatgrass. The corn has grown and a good harvest has been reaped. In one season, the plot was freed from wheatgrass, and our chickens were eating corn for a whole year.
Digging a well at the dacha for watering the garden, we threw the barren soil to the side of the ditch, leveling it. And in order to hide the ugly, gray appearance of the earth, I planted several bushes of lungwort, not really knowing anything about it. She just bloomed early and beautifully. I planted it and forgot it ... And after three years, all the barren land was completely covered with lungwort.
When I tried to dig, I was very surprised: the soil was crumbly and loose, as if there was an annually dug bed here - the roots, unlike comfrey, were easily removed.
Several bushes, planted at different ends of the site in turf, after a year form beautiful flower beds, then a solid carpet, which will displace any grass and will bloom early to the delight of beekeepers.After flowering, it can be easily mowed so that the site has a well-groomed look, but you don't need to mow because of our eternal employment. During the winter, soft grass rots well and replenishes the soil with potassium, magnesium, silicon, copper, iron, iodine and other microelements that lungwort is so rich in.
The neighbors tried heat treatment with a weed burner. The treatment is effective, but so long and laborious! We've made it easier.
The beds in the greenhouse were covered with a thick layer of straw and set on fire. The straw quickly burns out and does not have time to harm the soil, but the high temperature destroys pests, weed seeds and painful microflora. At the same time, the beneficial microflora also suffers, therefore, immediately after the heat treatment, we applied fertilizers to the ground and spilled it abundantly. At the same time, the ash obtained from the straw was embedded in the garden bed - it reduces the acidity of the soil and enriches it.
Straw burning helps not only in greenhouses, it can be done throughout the entire plot. Just keep in mind that the day should be calm so that the burning straw does not scatter.
Creeping wheatgrass is a perennial rhizome weed that has long creeping roots that cover an area underground within a radius of 1.5–2 meters. The stalk with the ear grows up to 120 cm in height.
The tough underground stalks of wheatgrass easily make their way through the dense soil among other roots. This plant is an aggressor. An underground dense network of rhizomes and ground stems take away food and water from neighboring plants in the garden.
Ways to deal with creeping wheatgrass
Since wheatgrass is a malicious weed, the fight against it is serious. An effective weed control agent is regular root pruning or weeding of wheatgrass. So the plant is gradually depleted and dies over time. The lesson is not easy, as the procedure will have to be repeated every 2-3 weeks.
If the plantings are mulched with film or organic matter, then the weed will not be able to break through the dense layer of mulch.
Siderata are called green fertilizers and are planted annually in front of the main crops, they can drive wheatgrass from the garden in a few years.
Chemical preparations make it possible to get rid of the weed in a short time, providing 90–95% of its death. How to treat the garden from weeds? The most effective preparations for wheatgrass are based on cletodim. Weed control herbicides with sethoxydim kill up to 73% of weeds.
Among gardeners, drugs are popular: Agrokiller, Glyphos, Tornado, Roundup, Hurricane Forte.
For soil cultivation, the following preparations are suitable: Radiance, Tamir, Baikal EM-1, Emiks, Vozrozhdenie and EM syrup.
This is the fastest and most effective method, which gives excellent results, but has contraindications and requires great care. The choice of drug depends on the type of uncontrollably growing plants.
The agrotechnical market offers different types of pesticides, which are divided according to various criteria into several groups.
By the ability to move through plant tissues
When in contact with some part of the plant, the destructive substance quickly spreads both throughout its aerial part and into the root system, which causes its complete death, including every leaf and every root.
In this case, the effect of the drug is carried out only at the place of its direct contact.
By the spectrum of action
In this case, the drug destroys everything that is within the radius of its hit, including cultivated crops and weeds. The use of such preparations is justified in the case when it is necessary to obtain an area completely cleared of vegetation, on which there will not be a single blade of grass.
Example - "Tornado", "Antiburyan". They are useful when laying paths, laying paving slabs on the site, laying a reservoir, preparing land for a lawn.
They are able to get rid of uninvited plants without harming those planted. Effective for maintaining an even, well-groomed lawn. The agent and its concentration can be selected individually depending on the type of weeds, their strength and quantity.
The most popular are Hurricane, Roundup, Agrokiller, Fuzilad, Lazurit, Lintour. The drug "Tornado" can also be used as a selective agent, but it should be remembered that, along with the “Antikiller” agent, it is more powerful against the background of others. It is recommended to use them in the fight against the most stubborn and strong weeds, such as horsetail, wheatgrass, all types of weeds, hogweed, plantain, dandelion.
With the help of the "Agrokiller" preparation, you can even cope with thickets of shrubs and trees to clear a neglected area.
The mechanism of action can also be different (including complex) - the destruction of cell membranes, inhibition of the synthesis of fats, photosynthesis, the formation of amino acids, etc. Herbicide preparations are produced in the form of emulsions, diluents, suspensions, powders, granules.
The healing properties of dreaming
Common runny is popularly used to treat inflammatory processes with gout, rheumatism, arthritis, arthrosis, sciatica, eczema. Its infusions and decoctions are successfully used in the treatment of wounds, bedsores, erysipelas, bacterial and fungal infections.
The chemical composition of the common dream is very close to the composition of human blood. Common snake contains a number of nutrients that give the plant a high nutritional value. It is used in the form of drinks, teas, a component of green soups, vitamin salads and other dishes.
WHO IS AN AMERICAN?
The people called her American, since the seeds of this plant were brought to Europe from South America with other planting materials. In the last century, it spread to France, Germany, Poland. Previously, strict phytosanitary regulations served as protection against the weed, but the relaxation of controls in the 1990s opened up widespread access to our country.
Botanical name - small-flowered galinsoga from the aster family. The plant is annual. The first wave of shoots appears in May, then young shoots make their way until autumn in any place free of vegetation. No more than three weeks pass from seed germination to flowering. It blooms and bears fruit all summer and autumn, producing a huge number of small flying seeds.
The most favorable conditions for Galinsoga: loose fertile soil, light shade, abundant moisture, warmth in the absence of extreme heat. This is exactly what she finds in our gardens. A favorable combination of weather conditions led to a powerful outbreak of this weed in the Northwest region in 2004. Since then, it has not been possible to cope with the American.