Ways of growing potato seedlings and their effectiveness: a note to the gardener
Almost all Solanaceous gardeners grow just seedlings. Potatoes are perhaps the only exception. But this method is also applicable to him. Its main advantages are the ability to get an earlier and more plentiful harvest, multiply valuable varieties, and its disadvantage is labor intensity. Although nothing supernatural is required from the gardener. You just need to first study all the nuances of the procedure.
Growing potato seedlings from seeds
The vast majority of gardeners grow potatoes from tubers. But if you practice this method all the time, the quality of the crop is constantly deteriorating from year to year, the volume decreases, because the planting material degenerates in 5-7 years. You can update it in two ways - just buy new tubers of the super-super-elite, super-elite, elite, and so on, or grow them yourself.
Mini potato tubers are quite expensive, even if the planting material is gradually renewed.
The second option, in addition to significant cost savings, is not devoid of other significant advantages:
- Confidence in the quality of the planting material. A rare gardener can distinguish elite mini-tubers from ordinary small potatoes by sight. The risk of buying a fake is further increased when buying from hands or at fairs.
It is difficult for an amateur gardener to distinguish ordinary small tubers from elite planting material
- Saving space required for storing potatoes for planting. It is much easier to create optimal conditions for seeds.
- Lack of disease. Excluding the first reproduction, tubers can be infected with viruses, bacteria, pathogenic fungi. The conditions for their cultivation are unknown to you.
On an industrial scale, the first generation of tubers is grown in laboratory conditions that ensure complete sterility; for the next generations, the absence of diseases cannot be guaranteed with absolute certainty.
- The ability to create your own unique variety, which is optimal for you taste, appearance of tubers, resistance to certain diseases and adapted to the climate in the growing region.
- Better yield. High-quality planting material yields on average 25–30% more potatoes than degenerated tubers. The harvest is better stored, there is less waste in the process.
There are also disadvantages:
- Fragility and capriciousness of seedlings. The root system of potatoes is formed more slowly than that of other Solanaceae, the seeds germinate poorly. Seedlings need to provide optimal conditions and constantly monitor their maintenance. They react especially painfully to a lack of light and an unsuitable soil.
- The need to use fungicides to prevent fungal diseases. Otherwise, because of them (especially because of the black leg), you can lose the crop already at this stage.
- Duration of the process. Cultivation of a full-fledged crop takes two years.
Fungicides - copper-containing preparations to combat pathogenic microflora; potato seedlings are very susceptible to infection with pathogenic fungi
The process begins with the preparation of the seeds. The easiest way is to buy them. Popular varieties are Lada, Empress, Ilona, Assol, Milena, Ballada, Triumph, Farmer.
The assortment of potato seeds in the respective stores is quite large.
Self-collection of seeds is not difficult. In early August, pick off a few large berries that grow on potato bushes after flowering, and hang in a linen or gauze bag in a bright, warm, well-ventilated area. When the skin wrinkles and changes color to a pale salad, and the fruits become soft to the touch, cut them and rub the pulp through a sieve. Rinse it, separating the seeds, dry them until they are free flowing and pour into a paper bag.
Many gardeners pick potato berries, considering them useless, but they can be used to obtain planting material.
Video: collecting potato seeds
In this form, they can be stored for a long time, but the seeds show the best germination in the first 2-3 years. Even the maximum indicators for potatoes, in comparison with other Solanaceae, are low, therefore it is recommended to provide yourself with planting material with a margin. It is not difficult, each berry contains 150-200 seeds. Choose healthy donor bushes.
Fungal diseases are not transmitted to seeds, some viral and bacterial ones - yes.
Potato seeds take up very little space and can be stored for 6-7 years
Seedlings are grown according to the following algorithm:
- Seed preparation. The easiest way is to soak them for a couple of days in a solution of any biostimulant (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin, Heteroauxin) - this will improve germination. Leave the container in a warm place, for example, on a radiator. Another method is hardening. For 10 days, the seeds, covered with moist peat, are kept in the refrigerator at night, and at room temperature during the day. The fastest way is heating at a temperature of 40–42 ° С. Enough 15 minutes.
Pre-germinated potato seeds sprout faster and more massively
- Substrate preparation. The soil should be as loose as possible. You can, for example, mix peat with purchased Solanaceous soil and sand in a ratio of 4: 1: 2. The substrate is certainly disinfected; to protect against fungal diseases, chalk or activated carbon crushed into powder (a tablespoon per 2 liters) is added to the powder.
A solution of potassium permanganate is one of the most famous and affordable disinfectants, it is also quite suitable for soil.
- Planting seeds. In the last decade of March or early April, seeds are sown in the ground. Individual pots are filled with soil by making drainage holes. Seeds are placed at intervals of 4–5 cm, leaving twice as much between the rows. From above, they are covered with a layer of fine sand 0.5 cm thick, slightly compacting it, and watered by spraying the soil from a spray bottle. You can plant potatoes in common boxes, but this means a subsequent dive, and the seedlings are very fragile, they may not survive such stress.
Potato seeds are planted, providing future seedlings with sufficient area to feed
- The emergence of seedlings. Prior to this, the seed pots are kept in the dark at a temperature of about 25-27 ° C, covered with plastic wrap. Useful if the heat comes from below. You will have to wait about two weeks. Air the plantings daily for 5-7 minutes, spray the soil regularly. The soil should be slightly moist all the time. Containers with seedlings are transferred to the best illuminated place in the room (for example, closer to the south-facing window). The temperature is maintained at 23-25 ° С.
Polyethylene film or glass provides a greenhouse effect, which accelerates seed germination, but at the same time high humidity, provoking the development of fungal diseases
- Seedling care. Potatoes need 10-12 hours of daylight. This means the almost inevitable use of conventional fluorescent or phytolamps. The containers are placed on the windowsill so that the leaves of neighboring plants do not touch. Once every 5-7 days, they are turned so that the seedlings do not tilt, reaching for the sun. Plants are watered every 3-4 days, allowing the soil to dry out to a depth of 1-2 cm. The first feeding is applied a week after germination of seeds, diluting urea or other nitrogen fertilizer in water (1 g / l). Then, every 20-25 days, the bushes are fed with store-bought fertilizer for seedlings, preparing a solution that is half the concentration specified by the manufacturer.
Phytolamps provide seedlings with the required daylight hours
- Hardening. They start it one and a half weeks before disembarkation. Containers with seedlings are daily taken out into the fresh air, increasing the period of stay outside the house from 2-3 to 8-10 hours.
Pre-hardening will help potato seedlings adapt faster and more successfully in a new place.
The planting of seedlings in the garden is planned, guided by the climate in the region. For areas of risky farming, the optimal time is the first decade of June and the very end of May, for the eastern part of the territory of Russia - the beginning of this month. In the south, it can be held in mid-April. The age of the plants is within 40–55 days, 4–5 true leaves are required.
When choosing the time for planting potato seedlings, you can focus on folk signs - the fact that there will be no more frosts is evidenced by the flowering of dandelions and the blossoming leaves on birches
Video: planting potato seedlings in the ground
The garden bed is prepared in the fall, digging deeply into the selected area and applying all the necessary fertilizers. About 5 liters of humus, 30–40 g of simple superphosphate and 20–25 g of potassium nitrate are introduced per 1 m². The place is chosen well-lit and warmed by the sun, without groundwater approaching the surface and not in a lowland.
Humus is a natural remedy for increasing soil fertility
Consider the rules of crop rotation. Beds are not suitable for potatoes after other Solanaceae, the best predecessors for him are Legumes, Cruciferous, Pumpkin, any greens.
Any greenery is a good neighbor and precursor for potatoes, spicy herbs are also useful in that they repel many pests
Video: common mistakes when growing potatoes from seeds
For seedlings, holes are dug in advance with a depth of about 10 cm. A handful of humus is placed on the bottom, about the same amount of wood ash and a little onion husk to repel pests. The planting scheme is the same as for tubers - at least 30 cm between adjacent plants and about 60 cm between rows. Place arcs over the garden bed, stretch white covering material over them, protecting the plantings from the sun. You can remove it when the seedlings start to grow. Within a month after planting, the potatoes are watered 2-3 times a week, but in moderation, spending about 0.5 liters of water per bush.
The most important thing in the process of planting potato seedlings is not to damage the fragile root system.
Video: the process of growing potatoes from seed from preparation for planting to harvest
Dug up tubers in August-September. Follow the description of the variety. The crop is very variegated. Tubers differ sharply in weight (10–50 g), skin color, shape, and taste. For planting for the second season, choose the most suitable potatoes for you. About 1 kg of future planting material is removed from the bush, when grown in a greenhouse or greenhouse - up to 1.5 kg. These tubers are stored as ordinary seed potatoes, in the spring they carry out standard preparation for planting. With proper care, you can expect a yield increase of 25-30%.
It will not be possible to obtain identical tubers - varietal traits are guaranteed to be transmitted only with vegetative propagation of potatoes
Video: seed potatoes for the second season
Seedling potatoes from eyes
Growing seedlings from eyes allows you to use the same tuber several times, significantly increasing the number of bushes. This allows a rare valuable variety to be multiplied in one season.
The eye of a tuber is a cone-shaped depression up to 1 cm in diameter, but it can almost merge with the surface of the skin. On varieties of medium and late ripening periods, as a rule, there are more of them. The eyes are cut out immediately before planting with a small piece of pulp about 1 cm thick. Before each cut, the knife is disinfected, for example, by dipping it into a deep purple solution of potassium permanganate. The sections are immediately sprinkled with wood ash or crushed chalk.
The eyes of some potato varieties are highlighted in a contrasting color.
It takes 25-30 days to grow seedlings in this way. The soil is prepared the same as for potato seeds, making sure to add a preparation that provides protection against fungal diseases (Trichodermin, Glyocladin). The planting pattern is 5–6 cm between plants and 7–8 cm between rows. Then they are covered with a layer of earth 1.5 cm thick.
Trichodermin is one of the most common and safe for human health and the surrounding nature means for combating fungal diseases.
Containers with eyes are kept in a well-lit place at a temperature of 16–20 ° С. The emergence of seedlings will have to wait about two weeks. As soon as the seedlings grow to 2-3 cm in height, they are completely covered with soil. This is repeated 1-2 more times, this is necessary for the formation of a more powerful root system. The substrate is moistened as it dries up to 2-3 cm in depth. Two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, fertilizing is carried out with mineral nitrogen fertilizer.
Seedlings with a height of about 12 cm and having at least 5 true leaves are ready for planting in the ground. The bushes will be easier to remove from the box if they are watered abundantly beforehand. The stem is buried in the soil by about a third.
The plant will have nowhere to take nutrients, it does not have a tuber. To compensate for this, during preparation, humus and mineral fertilizers are necessarily introduced. Humus and complex fertilizer for potatoes (about a tablespoon) are also added to the hole. Such plants form in one stem, they can be planted more often, leaving 15–20 cm between bushes, and about 70 cm between rows.
When planting seedlings obtained from potato eyes, a complex fertilizer must be applied to the hole when planting in the ground
Video: planting seedlings in the garden
The second option is to grow potatoes from already sprouted eyes. The seed potatoes are placed in the germination substrate about a month (or more) before the planned planting. Each eye on a tuber produces 2–5 shoots with root primordia. When they reach a length of about 1 cm, they are carefully unscrewed from the tuber and seated in separate containers or common boxes. The soil should be both loose and nutritious. You can, for example, mix humus with Solanaceae substrate in a 1: 2 ratio.
During one spring, sprouts from a potato tuber can be obtained 3-4 times
Seedling care is similar to that required for seedlings obtained from seeds. The trick of the method is that tubers from which sprouts have already been obtained can be placed back in the soil for germination, sprinkling with earth on top and watering abundantly. After about 10 days, new seedlings will appear.
Video: several generations of sprouts from one tuber
When potatoes are grown in this way, 20–45 new plants are obtained from each tuber. But they need careful care. This is the main disadvantage of the method. A suitable nutrient soil, regular weeding (or mulching) and proper feeding are especially important. Fertilizers are desirable to be applied every week.
Mulching the garden helps save time on weeding - weeds can easily choke potato bushes, because they are less strong than those obtained from tubers
Video: growing potato seedlings from eyes
Preparation and planting of potato tubers for seedlings
Growing seedlings from tubers is advisable only if there is a need to get a very early harvest or in regions with a harsh climate with a very short summer, when varieties with even the shortest ripening period do not have time to ripen. It turns out a head start about a month. The crop can be harvested at the end of June. The method is also valuable because the bushes practically do not suffer from diseases and pests. The peak of insect activity occurs in May-June, when the plants are already strong, developed and able to resist them.
For planting seedlings, tubers of a typical variety are suitable, about the size of a chicken egg, without the slightest traces of damage by diseases and pests. Before germination (at the end of February), they are soaked for 30-40 minutes in a nutrient solution, diluting in 5 liters of warm water 2 g of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, boric acid, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate and 15-20 g of superphosphate and sulfate potassium.
High-quality planting material is the key to a bountiful harvest in the future
Dried potatoes are laid out for germination in one layer, covered with cloth or paper on top. He needs light (only diffused) and a temperature of about 15 ° C. Tubers are sprayed weekly with nutrient solutions and infusions - wood ash (a glass for 2 liters), superphosphate (100 g for 3 liters), chicken manure (1:20). After about a month, the tubers will sprout.
To save space, potato tubers for sprouting can be folded into bags and hung from the ceiling
Video: preparing tubers for planting
Potatoes are planted in separate containers. For example, flower pots, cut 5-liter bottles are suitable. They take up a lot of space, this is the main drawback of the method. Seedling care is the same as for seedlings grown from seeds. But these specimens are much stronger and less capricious. They are able to forgive individual flaws in agricultural technology and deviations from optimal conditions of detention. It will take another month to grow seedlings.
Seedlings from tubers are powerful, so they are immediately planted in individual containers
It is transferred to the garden at the end of April. Soil preparation has no specific features, the planting scheme is also standard. For at least a week, the plants are covered with spunbond, lutrasil, protecting from night cold and facilitating adaptation. As a rule, they take root well in a new place, actively start to grow.
Breathable covering material will protect potato seedlings from possible frost
Growing potato seedlings is an interesting activity that allows you to try on the role of a breeder. The method is rarely used by gardeners, because seedlings need careful care. But sometimes it is very useful, for example, if you need to renew planting material or propagate a rare valuable variety. The process requires preliminary preparation of planting material and knowledge of the nuances of seedling care. Nothing super complicated from the gardener is required, but you need to familiarize yourself with the technique in advance.
27 years old, higher legal education, broad outlook and interest in a variety of topics.
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When choosing the optimal timing for planting potatoes, it is very important to maintain a balance. If the event is carried out too early, return spring frosts may return and destroy the potatoes, and the cold earth can provoke rhizoctoniasis (a fungal disease in which black growths form on the tubers). And with too late planting, you can get a harvest in a smaller volume, because due to the end of the warm season, it will not have time to ripen in full.
When is it better to plant a crop outdoors in 2021, in what month? First of all, when choosing the time for the procedure, you need to focus on the weather and temperature conditions. The threat of return spring frosts should pass, the soil should warm up to 8-10 degrees Celsius, and the air temperature during the day should be stable at 15-20 (and more) degrees Celsius.
Advice! If you are in doubt and think that recurrent frosts can return in the spring, then it is better to postpone the procedure a little.
In different regions of our vast country, the weather and climatic conditions are very different. And this means that you need to plant potatoes at different times, taking into account climatic features:
- In the middle lane (Moscow region) - planting is optimal in the second half of May.
- In the South (Krasnodar Territory (Kuban), North Caucasus) - early in mid-April.
- In Siberia, the Urals, the Leningrad region - it is better to plant at the end of May or even at the beginning of June.
By the way! If you are interested in early planting in the spring, then you can perform the procedure earlier for one or two weeks of the optimal time, and then install arcs and cover with a film.
A very good assistant in gardening affairs is the cycles of the moon, with their help you can determine the most accurate time when you can and cannot plant anything in the garden. In this way, dates for planting potatoes in open ground according to the lunar calendar 2021:
- Auspicious days:
- in March: 5, 7, 10, 15
- in April: 1, 19, 22, 23, 24, 27, 28, 29, 30
- in May: 16, 17
- in June: 14, 15, 16, 17.
- Unfavorable days:
- in March: 12, 28
- in April: 11, 26
- in May: 11, 26
- in June: 10, 24.
Folk trick! Some experienced gardeners have adopted the experience of their ancestors and are guided by folk signs when choosing dates. It is believed that potatoes can be planted when:
- birch leaves will be the size of a 1 kopeck coin
- dandelion has faded
- the flowering of the bird cherry is over.
Growing potatoes from slices (large eyes)
Root crops inherit the qualities of the mother tuber. That is why it is not recommended to use potatoes that are too small. Tubers of medium size, weighing 80-100 grams, are considered ideal for planting. Larger potatoes are not planted for reasons of economy. But there is a way out: large tubers can be cut.
Preplant preparation of potatoes
Only completely healthy tubers are used for planting. Potatoes should be cut in such a way that there is a peephole on each slice.
Correct notch options
There are several options for preparing planting material:
- 35–40 days before planting, the potatoes are vernalized (germinated). Immediately before planting, the sprouted potatoes are cut into pieces weighing at least 5-10 g (the size of a walnut). Starting to cut a new tuber, be sure to disinfect the knife in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. So that the peelless pulp does not fester, the slices are dipped in ash
- sprouted tubers are cut into slices 5–6 days before planting. The resulting pieces are laid out in one row in a dry, shaded place (at room temperature) so that the cut surface has time to tighten before planting
- in large tubers deposited for food, all eyes are usually concentrated in the upper part. You can cut off about 1/3 of the potatoes (the one with the eyes), and use the rest for food. The damaged pulp of the part intended for planting is powdered with ash, and then, for vernalization, it is placed in a box and sprinkled with loose earth or sawdust. The substrate is periodically slightly moistened. When the potato pieces sprout, they are cut into slices (sometimes the eyes are so close to each other that 2 or even 3 sprouts are left on one slice)
- tubers usually have only 4–5 buds active. To "wake up" the sleeping, they use the technique of incisions. The tuber is incised with a disinfected knife in the middle (across) so that the halves are connected by a 1 cm thick jumper.If most of the active eyes are concentrated in one part of the tuber, they retreat about a centimeter from the lower eyes and make an annular cut 1 cm deep around their cluster. Then the potatoes are placed on vernalization in the same way as in the previous case, and cut into slices before planting.
Pieces of tubers are very vulnerable to pathogenic fungi, bacteria and insect pests. Therefore, before planting, it is advisable to spray the slices with some kind of fungicide (for example, "Prestige") or a solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Planting potatoes in wedges
Slices are planted denser than whole tubers. The distance between plants in a row should be 10-15 cm (for large pieces with several eyes - 20 cm), row spacing - 60-80 cm. Planting depth - no more than 6-7 cm. To save space, it is allowed to plant slices in double beds (staggered). The distance between two rows in the garden bed is at least 20 cm.
A sprout that has emerged from a lobule does not have the reserves of nutrients that are available in a whole tuber. Therefore, the groove in which the slices are to be planted are laid with compost, onion husks, ash, eggshells. Then, pieces of tubers are planted at the bottom of the groove sprouts upwards. Each slice is slightly pressed into the ground, then the groove is filled up so that the height of the ridge above the row of potatoes is at least 10 cm.
Caring for potato bushes
After about 15–20 days, when the tops of the seedlings come close to the surface, a higher ridge is poured over them: 30 cm high, base width (for a single bed) - 60–70 cm.
Potatoes planted in this way need moisture. If the weather is dry, hot, then after the emergence of seedlings, they must be watered abundantly (at the rate of 15 liters per 1 m²). The second watering should be done before budding.
Having made the decision to grow super-elite potatoes on your own, you need to decide where to get the seeds. You can buy them or collect them in your garden with your own hands. The latter option is a pretty fun process that saves money. But it must be borne in mind that it will not work to plant potato seeds in the same year when they were harvested. The harvest of table potatoes should be expected in two years from the moment of harvesting the seeds.
We select seeds
The process of collecting potato seeds is quite simple, we will consider it in stages:
- We collect berries from the tops of a potato bush, choosing the largest ones. We do this in August.
The largest potato berries are selected to collect seeds.
Potato berries must be cut or crushed and seeds selected
Potato seeds must be thoroughly dried, otherwise they will rot and not yield a crop
You can store such seeds for 2-3 years. But it is important to know that they have a low percentage of germination, so you need to prepare a lot of them.
Preparation and processing of planting material
Before sowing, the seeds of potatoes, like other vegetable crops, must be processed and prepared for planting. Experts recommend the use of seed soaking and their stratification, i.e. hardening, as such preparatory processes.
Soak the seeds in clean water at a temperature of at least 20 ° C. It is advisable to place them on a dense fabric so as not to damage the hatched sprouts when removing. Most often, gardeners use ordinary cotton pads, since they retain moisture well. The seeds are wrapped and placed in a container with a lid, preferably a plastic one. During the day, be sure to ventilate the seeds by opening the container lid.
Potato seeds are soaked until they swell and the first shoots appear
The point of hardening is that the soaked seeds are exposed to temperature extremes. During the day, the container with the seeds is kept at room temperature at least 20 ° C, and at night it is placed in the compartment of the refrigerator for vegetables (temperature 1-2 ° C). The procedure should be repeated within 10 days.
Soaking and hardening seeds will allow you to select the most viable ones from them and prepare them for changes in temperature conditions in the soil, which will help to increase the yield of potatoes.
When potato seeds are soaked, the first shoots can hatch after 4–5 days, and they begin to be planted in a container with soil after 10–12 days.
Growing potatoes from seeds - reviews
I tried it for the first time last year. Normal grown potatoes, although of course there is a lot of fiddling with them. The sprouts are capricious - they almost refilled, wilted, slightly poured, fell again. Stretch strongly. And they look like wood lice Of all the seeds sown (4 varieties were planted), no more than half survived before planting in the ground. Dragee varieties, Cinderella variety (9 out of 11 seeds), rose and grew best of all. I remember two more varieties - Milena and Carmen, but I don't remember one icon_sad.gif I planted it in mid-June, 2–4 tails per hole (in total, about 20 bushes were made from 4 packs of seeds). Then it grows well, develops rapidly, and by autumn it caught up with the bushes of tubers in size. Well, she huddled, fed, like the usual one. There were a lot of potatoes, no less than a dozen from each bush the size of a chicken egg, give or take a little. I did not collect trifles, it was there like peas. About a tenth of the tubers were quite commercial size, and there were five of them really large. Splitting was also observed, among the potatoes there were handsome men, there were also freaks, which I naturally rejected. All green, selected 150 tubers of the best in appearance, are well stored. Well, then let's see what will grow out of them today.
I'll tell you about my experience in growing potatoes from seeds. She grew potato seedlings as well as tomato. Sow for seedlings at the same time as tomatoes for OG (for me on March 10), if earlier, then the backlight. But I feel sorry for the place under the lamps on the potatoes I sprinkled with earth, a layer a little smaller (and the seeds are smaller than tomato seeds). I dived into boxes, there were not enough separate apartments. Top dressing - along with other seedlings. It was planted in the exhaust gas in the 20th of May under the covering material. Frosts do not promise - I am taking off shelters. By the time of planting, the seedlings are 20–25 cm high. I put them in the holes almost lying down, leaving 1/3 of the height on the surface. Further - care as for ordinary potatoes. The harvest is incomprehensible in size - from peas to tubers the size of a woman's fist. For seeds, she left tubers ranging in size from a walnut to a chicken egg. Yes, the seeds were collected from potatoes by the Kiwi variety.
I tried to grow potatoes from seeds. The variety seemed to be "Farmer". He took the soil that he had harvested in the fall for planting seedlings, and kept it in the country. Prepared it (calcined in the oven and spilled with potassium permanganate). Seeds were sown in peat pots, 3-4 pieces per pot, the soil was poured not to the top and slightly sprinkled with loose soil. He poured it, covered it with glass on top and put it to the battery. Seedlings appeared on the 4th day and by the end of the week all the seeds had already sprung, of course the plants did not have enough light and they stretched out, then I poured the earth. Then I brought more light to the balcony (I have it insulated) there is more light and cooler than in the room, so hardening began. When the potatoes had already sprung up at the dacha, the planted tubers took this one, planted it in the open ground. I did everything else like ordinary potatoes: watering, loosening, fertilizing, hilling. In the fall, I dug up nodules and it turned out that they were severely affected by scab, in general, I threw them away so as not to infect the site.
I tried to grow potatoes with seeds for a long time. I don’t remember the variety, but from a bag of 25 seeds, 12 pieces survived until planting in the ground. In the fall, I collected about half a kilogram of tubers ranging in size from a pea to a chicken egg. Greened and kept in a cellar, strewn with straw cutting. Winter more than one tuber did not survive, the trifle dried up, the larger ones rotted. That's all.
Seeds sprout with a bang. The spread is strong in terms of yield. From "peas", and even that is not enough to quite surprisingly almost marketable potatoes. There is no scatter in appearance. All tubers are exactly the same (color, shape, pulp color, eyes). In the second year, three bushes with 30 tubers in each stood out, left for seeds completely. But this is not even the main thing. The main thing is that not a single bush with late blight never got sick at all, although the last three seed bushes were dug at the end of September. I wonder if they are not GM. In the same year, their own seeds were sown from the blue-eyed by it, the blue-eyed, pollinated. The thought was this - the variety was too good, but very old, I wanted to update it so that there were no viruses and other nasty things there. The result was shocking. The cultivated "peas" resembled sea pebbles. The color ranged from pure white to deep purple with a transition through bright red. The bright purple "sticks" stood out. Average length to diameter 5: 1. Nothing similar to the classic blue-eyed was seen. But the "sticks" for the sake of interest were planted next year. They turned out to be fruitful (about 15 in the nest), grew of a normal potato size, they taste like blue eyes, it is pleasant to clean them, the eyes are almost invisible. And in general, the view is very funny. icon_lol.gif
If you decide to grow potatoes from seed, be patient and follow the rules. Even if it doesn't work the first time, you shouldn't give up.After all, this is actually an amazing opportunity not only to feel like a real breeder, but also to grow an unprecedented crop of potatoes that are resistant to diseases and the vagaries of nature.