When and how to feed pumpkin to get healthy and tasty fruits
Pumpkin is considered an unpretentious plant. The only thing that needs to be provided to her is a sufficient amount of heat and light. The fruits, regardless of the variety, are rich in vitamins A, C, E, group B and carnitine, as well as fluorine, copper, calcium and iodine. But to grow a really healthy pumpkin, it needs to be properly fed.
The garden is best prepared in the fall. Fertilizers can be applied during plowing. For this purpose, a mixture is used:
- 5-10 kg of cow dung or 2-3 kg of poultry manure;
- 5-6 kg of compost;
- 35 kg of superphosphate;
- 25 g of potassium chloride;
- 250 g of lime.
If the soil in the garden is acidic, then the amount of lime can be increased, if it is heavy, add sand. Already in the spring, 2 tbsp each can be added directly to the planting holes. l. dry wood ash or a solution of mineral fertilizers (10-20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium salt, 10 liters of water).
When forming pumpkin lashes, they must be constantly untangled, laid in the right direction and sprinkled. Thanks to this, it will be possible to avoid breaks by the wind and achieve the formation of additional roots.At this stage, top dressing should be applied not only under the main root, but also in the places of bedding. To do this, dissolve 100 g of wood ash in 10 liters of water, mix thoroughly and pour such a volume under each bush. There is another way - dilute 200 g of ash in 1 liter of boiling water and add after abundant watering.
Blooming pumpkin is especially useful for feeding with potassium solutions or boric acid. The latter stimulates the duration of flowering, enhances the growth of green parts and at the same time is absolutely safe for humans.To prepare the fertilizer, it is necessary to dilute 1 g of boric acid in 1 liter of warm water. If mineral fertilizers are used at the same time, then the concentration of the solution must be halved, that is, add 0.5 g of boric acid to 1 liter of water. The resulting solution is required to spray each pumpkin bush until fine dew appears on its leaves - large drops should not be. It is worth doing this in the morning or evening in dry, calm weather.
During the formation of ovaries
Yeast secretes many useful components, for example, thiamine and B vitamins. Pumpkin reacts very well to these substances, which is manifested by the active growth of the root system, which means that the plant absorbs minerals from the soil better. To prepare the fertilizer, you need to dissolve 30 g live or 1 g dry baker's yeast and 3 tbsp. sugar, let the product brew for two hours, and before use, dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 5. If you do not want to mess around with the preparation of fertilizer, then you can water the pumpkin with live kvass or natural beer. At the same time, it is recommended to make sure that there are no chemical additives in the product and that its expiration date has not expired.
During the growing season
Mowed weeds can be a good fertilizer for pumpkin, it will be even better than compost in terms of efficiency. To do this, fill a 200-liter barrel with chopped grass to a third, fill the container with water and close the lid. To speed up the fermentation process, you can add a few tablespoons of urea. Several holes must be made in the lid so that the gas escapes and left for about 10-14 days. The readiness of the fertilizer can be judged by the absence of foam and a rich dark color. Before use, the product must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 for root feeding and 1:20 for foliar feeding. In the same period, you can fertilize the pumpkin with a solution of ammonia (50 ml of ammonia per 5 liters of water), which serves as a good source of nitrogen. Manure is also suitable - 1 kg per 10 liters of water.
After abundant watering
Bird droppings are a source of nitrogen, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium and calcium. This fertilizer is used to feed pumpkin at any stage of growth. To do this, a slurry is prepared from dry or fresh manure and water in a ratio of 1:20, after which it must be infused for 10 days. Top dressing is applied in the aisles after abundant watering, which reduces the concentration of the solution and allows the roots to evenly absorb nutrients.
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How to properly harvest and store pumpkin fruits in the fall
The pumpkin is harvested before frost appears in warm and sunny weather. This usually happens in mid or late September. You can find out whether a pumpkin is mature or not by the drying and hardening of its stalk and bark. Carefully cut the fruit together with the stalk and sort by size and quality. Pumpkin fruits with various damages must be used immediately after harvesting, and the rest, suitable for long-term storage, should be dried and warmed up in the sun for one week.
If the night temperature is too low, be sure to cover the pumpkin fruits with covering materials, such as agril. In wet and humid weather, dry pumpkins under a canopy so that excess moisture evaporates from them, their surface hardens and is less exposed to harmful microorganisms.
For long-term storage, the most stable pumpkin varieties are used. This can be judged by pressing on the bark with a fingernail. If the surface of the pumpkin is not squeezed, then such fruits are most suitable for long-term use.
For long-term storage, pumpkins contain a large amount of starch. During storage, the starch is hydrolyzed and the fruit becomes sweeter.
It is necessary to store the pumpkin in a well-ventilated area at a temperature of 3-5 degrees above zero and a relative humidity of no more than 75%. Pumpkin fruits are laid out on special racks with the stalks up in one row. It is important to leave a distance between the fruits for better ventilation. It is also imperative to protect pumpkins from exposure to sunlight.
Pumpkins can also be stored in wooden boxes in rows, layered with dry straw. If there is a small amount of fruit, then they can be spread out on the floor of the house, protecting from exposure to sunlight.
Pumpkin planting methods
Depending on the place of the pumpkin garden and on the desired harvest time, one or another planting method is chosen:
- seedling method
- planting in open ground with seeds
- planting in compost.
When planting a pumpkin, you need to focus on the climatic conditions of your region. In cold regions they are planted later, in hot ones - earlier. Pumpkin ripens in 95 days - early ripening, late in 140 days.
In some regions, in the open field, the pumpkin does not have time to ripen during these periods. Therefore, gardeners choose a seedling planting method.
Seed planting in open ground
In this way, early ripening pumpkin varieties are sown. In regions with a hot climate, mid-ripening ones will have time to ripen.
If there is no room for planting, you can plant it in a compost heap. Pumpkin accelerates the decomposition of coarse fibers and decorates the area with its leaves. The pumpkin grows in this place no worse than in the garden.
The technology for growing pumpkin in compost is no different from other methods. The pumpkin will also need timely watering and additional mineral fertilizing. She will receive organic microelements from the compost heap.
Each vegetable has its own place
Sorted out with the cardinal points, lighting and watering? It remains only to find out all the nuances regarding the compatibility of individual varieties of vegetables and their alternation in your garden. Every experienced summer resident knows that if last year, for example, potatoes grew on this site, then this year it is worth planting some other vegetables.
So, all vegetable crops are usually divided into:
- Demanding ones that need a lot of nutrients. These include cabbage, squash, cucumber, pumpkin, tomatoes, peppers, and celery.
- Medium demanding. Such vegetables need fertilizing with fertilizers only once a year, in contrast to demanding ones, which have to be "fed" both in spring and autumn. These vegetables include: eggplant, onions, potatoes, carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, kohlrabi, and garlic.
- Undemanding. Cultures that manage with a minimum of nutrients. These are peas, beans, parsley, dill, sage, basil and other spices.
In order to correctly draw up a plan for planting seeds and seedlings, the garden should be divided into four sections:
- One should be allocated for perennial plants, for example, strawberries and strawberries, which will have to be transplanted no more often than once every three to four years.
- The second site is reserved for demanding plants.
- The third is for medium-demanding crops.
- And the fourth, of course, is for undemanding plants.
A year later, especially picky plants need to be planted on a plot where undemanding ones grew, medium-demanding ones - on a plot where a harvest of demanding ones has already been harvested, and undemanding ones, accordingly, go to the site where medium-demanding cultivated plants grew last year.
This alternation is carried out every year and allows the soil to rest a little and get a higher yield.
In addition, when planning the location of the beds, it is necessary to take into account the compatibility of the plants. Cultural compatibility is the ability to grow side by side, strengthening, complementing and protecting each other.
So, between the rows of tomatoes, it is quite possible to sow onions, garlic or radishes. Dill or lettuce is an ideal "compactor" for carrots or beets. And the rows of potatoes can be combined with planting peas, which will be harvested earlier, and "provide" their roots as an excellent fertilizer for potato tubers.
Experts say that the ideal precursors for cabbage are nightshades, that is, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplants, as well as cucumbers, legumes or onions.
In turn, it is better to plant cucumber seedlings in the place where pepper or spinach grew last year. The best precursors for carrots and beets are cucumbers, tomatoes and peas.
But the nightshades themselves - tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and potatoes - do not like close proximity, moreover, they can "share" pests. So, the Colorado potato beetle is ready to eat both tomatoes and potatoes with the same appetite, so it will quickly master the nearby beds.
Another important point is that different periods of ripening and planting of plants allow you to get two harvests of different crops in one area. For example, in early spring, you can sow onions on feathers or radishes, and after harvesting, plant melons or tomatoes on this plot. After the harvest of garlic or onions has already been harvested, a winter radish or salad will feel great on this site.
How to properly care for outdoor pumpkins and squash
What you need to know about zucchini and pumpkin preferences:
During the growth period, the most favorable conditions are sunny, warm and dry weather. Both representatives will endure a short-term cold snap. But as for frosts, they will be destructive for the zucchini, and the thick skin of the pumpkin will withstand them with dignity.
It should be loose enough and necessarily rich in nutrients and microelements.
Plants love sun and warmth, but insufficient soil moisture will negatively affect the future harvest. Therefore, watering should be abundant and regular.
As we mentioned earlier, both pumpkins and zucchini are very demanding on the fertility of the land on which they grow. Therefore, this section should be given special attention.
How to feed pumpkin and zucchini in the open field
When and how to saturate the soil:
You should take care of the composition of the land even before you planted seeds or seedlings in it. As a fertilizer, you can use both natural and mineral substances and mixtures (manure, peat, humus, urea and others).
The wells where you plan to plant the plants can be moistened with a manganese solution. This will saturate the soil with essential trace elements, and also help get rid of pests that may lurk in it.
- During the period of active growth, but before the appearance of flowers.
The ideal combination for this period is nitrophosphate + mullein solution, diluted in water for irrigation.
Fertilizing at this time will prevent the dropping of flowers and give the plants the strength to produce a decent crop.
The best way is to dilute a special complex fertilizer suitable for squash and pumpkin in a large amount of water, and add a handful of ash. The resulting solution is used for root feeding.
How to properly feed plants on a leaf?
In a conversation with gardeners, the topic of effective feeding of crops by leaf was outlined. I usually washed off the dust from the leaves with a watering can, and after the foliage dries, I carried out top dressing.
I learned that it was necessary to add bioadhesive to the fertilizer, supposedly the effect would be better.
Share your experience - who feeds the plants how. Thanks.
Natalia, this is absolutely correct! You also need to consider how the elements are distributed across the sheet. Calcium, for example, which we use to spray tomatoes from the top, comes from the bottom up. And, if you do not spray the lower leaves, then it "will not reach the addressee." Something like this.
Natalia, adhesive is different. These are washed off by rain, if the dosage is incorrect, they can damage the upper cuticular layer of the leaf, and some even the epidermis.
There is such an adhesive Fertivant. They write about him: “This is a unique product in the industry that keeps the active substance on the leaf for up to 28 days, preventing it from being washed off by precipitation and watering. Promotes the penetration of active substances into the plant, overcoming the wax and cuticular barrier. " I haven't tried it myself, so I can't recommend it. So just for information.
Fertivant, as it were, pushes the cuticle cells apart.
Tatyana, last season I used the one in my picture, in August I saved strawberries from the whitefly and it rained every other day, and every day in September,
the adhesive did an excellent job, the berry went into the winter without a pest, I just missed out of sight that the same fertilizers need to be fixed on the leaves.